Opinion on negotiation
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Opinion on negotiation
So I made an offer on a 03' 996tt...this is not a pricing question as that has been asked before but more of how to handle an issue with the salesperson/dealer. After the second counter offer we reached an impasse. The sales person simply replied it's not going to happen, period. I asked to the sales person to please bring it to management again and sales person was unresponsive.
I'm a long distance buyer and they will not do a PPI unless there is a deposit on the car. I prefer to have an agreed upon price first then do the PPI. I have transport costs and the car needs new tires immediately (2008 tire dates). It just had an an annual service which was completed by the selling dealer.
Question is should I attempt to contact another sales person or the sales manager? Or keep trying to deal with an unresponsive sales person or wait to see if it sits and try to come back in in a week or two?
I'm a long distance buyer and they will not do a PPI unless there is a deposit on the car. I prefer to have an agreed upon price first then do the PPI. I have transport costs and the car needs new tires immediately (2008 tire dates). It just had an an annual service which was completed by the selling dealer.
Question is should I attempt to contact another sales person or the sales manager? Or keep trying to deal with an unresponsive sales person or wait to see if it sits and try to come back in in a week or two?
#2
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#3
RL Community Team
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I am with LexVan. Wait for them to contact you.
If you really want the car right now you have to agree to the price they want. It is your choice.
If you really want the car right now you have to agree to the price they want. It is your choice.
#4
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Confirm that your deposit is refundable. Send your price offer in writting via an e-mail, and tell Mr. Unresponsive to call you for a credit card number as a deposit. Then wait. Call in about 2 weeks to recheck.
#5
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#7
Race Director
So I made an offer on a 03' 996tt...this is not a pricing question as that has been asked before but more of how to handle an issue with the salesperson/dealer. After the second counter offer we reached an impasse. The sales person simply replied it's not going to happen, period. I asked to the sales person to please bring it to management again and sales person was unresponsive.
I'm a long distance buyer and they will not do a PPI unless there is a deposit on the car. I prefer to have an agreed upon price first then do the PPI. I have transport costs and the car needs new tires immediately (2008 tire dates). It just had an an annual service which was completed by the selling dealer.
Question is should I attempt to contact another sales person or the sales manager? Or keep trying to deal with an unresponsive sales person or wait to see if it sits and try to come back in in a week or two?
I'm a long distance buyer and they will not do a PPI unless there is a deposit on the car. I prefer to have an agreed upon price first then do the PPI. I have transport costs and the car needs new tires immediately (2008 tire dates). It just had an an annual service which was completed by the selling dealer.
Question is should I attempt to contact another sales person or the sales manager? Or keep trying to deal with an unresponsive sales person or wait to see if it sits and try to come back in in a week or two?
You are smart to have a price before you put down a deposit but unless the price is wrapped up in some sales contract the dealer may not have to honor it.
I don't know the situation very well at all but long distance shopping can be a real pain if one is seeking to buy a car for less, substantially less, than its listed price. This of course assumes one's offer is reasonable. If you are just trying to low ball an offer in the hopes the dealer will cave for some reason forget it.
My MO is to shop globally but buy locally. I search out cars all over to try to get a good feel for the market and what the price should be then use that to swing an acceptable deal on a suitable car locally, a car that I can visit -- sometimes a number of times when the dealer is closed so as to not tip my interest in the car -- and then the last time to kick the tires and light the fires before I attempt to buy the car.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Probably are not going to like my answer, but it is my opinion only. Walk away and look elsewhere. This is a great time of the year to be looking for a 996TT. They know how to find you if they are interested. I don't mind hard negotiations, but to just ignore someone is just unprofessional and rude. Dealers can be a PITA.
These cars come on the market and depending on color, mileage, mods/stock, tip/manual, that you are looking for patience will pay off.
These cars come on the market and depending on color, mileage, mods/stock, tip/manual, that you are looking for patience will pay off.
#9
Burning Brakes
Be aware that if the salesman has you in their system with name and phone number, (his) commission is locked in. If you start with the sales manager (some dealerships have Internet sales managers) you can sometimes expect to pay a smaller commission.
Another factor: most dealerships discount the credibility of long distance buyers because so many just aren't real.
I spent about 6 weeks negotiating a car 2200 miles away, and eventually got my price just because the (Chevrolet) dealership was tired of having it on their lot. But my car was on consignment. If the dealer has given a trade in value and 'owns' the car, they may have a lower limit on the price. But as they are 'flooring' the car, that limit could change in your favor. At the same time, you risk losing the car by waiting...
Another factor: most dealerships discount the credibility of long distance buyers because so many just aren't real.
I spent about 6 weeks negotiating a car 2200 miles away, and eventually got my price just because the (Chevrolet) dealership was tired of having it on their lot. But my car was on consignment. If the dealer has given a trade in value and 'owns' the car, they may have a lower limit on the price. But as they are 'flooring' the car, that limit could change in your favor. At the same time, you risk losing the car by waiting...
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
wow, awesome thoughtful replies. Thank you. I think being a long distance buyer is absolutely affecting the sales process I'm over 1000 miles away. Were 3k apart and I'm sure based on what others have posted here they acquired the car for much less than they are asking based on KBB/NADA trade-in. if I walk in looking to trade in my 996tt for a new 991tt its worth 40k bc its a 13 year old car with wear and tear but once they have to sell it its immediately a hot collector car/performance bargain @ 50k+. Listen, I get the game. I understand the dealer is in business to make money but what I'm offering is still a great short term return for them, they had the car for less than a week.
I'm going to contact the sales manager and send an email with my offer indicating to contact me for a credit card deposit, I want to make sure that my offer actually got to the proper party. After that I'm going to wait for them to contact me and/or move on to other opportunities. I like the car but I'm not attached to it. I feel that my offer is an accurate reflection of the market based on discussions on this forum.
I'm going to contact the sales manager and send an email with my offer indicating to contact me for a credit card deposit, I want to make sure that my offer actually got to the proper party. After that I'm going to wait for them to contact me and/or move on to other opportunities. I like the car but I'm not attached to it. I feel that my offer is an accurate reflection of the market based on discussions on this forum.
#11
wow, awesome thoughtful replies. Thank you. I think being a long distance buyer is absolutely affecting the sales process I'm over 1000 miles away. Were 3k apart and I'm sure based on what others have posted here they acquired the car for much less than they are asking based on KBB/NADA trade-in. if I walk in looking to trade in my 996tt for a new 991tt its worth 40k bc its a 13 year old car with wear and tear but once they have to sell it its immediately a hot collector car/performance bargain @ 50k+. Listen, I get the game. I understand the dealer is in business to make money but what I'm offering is still a great short term return for them, they had the car for less than a week.
I'm going to contact the sales manager and send an email with my offer indicating to contact me for a credit card deposit, I want to make sure that my offer actually got to the proper party. After that I'm going to wait for them to contact me and/or move on to other opportunities. I like the car but I'm not attached to it. I feel that my offer is an accurate reflection of the market based on discussions on this forum.
I'm going to contact the sales manager and send an email with my offer indicating to contact me for a credit card deposit, I want to make sure that my offer actually got to the proper party. After that I'm going to wait for them to contact me and/or move on to other opportunities. I like the car but I'm not attached to it. I feel that my offer is an accurate reflection of the market based on discussions on this forum.
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
wow, awesome thoughtful replies. Thank you. I think being a long distance buyer is absolutely affecting the sales process I'm over 1000 miles away. Were 3k apart and I'm sure based on what others have posted here they acquired the car for much less than they are asking based on KBB/NADA trade-in. if I walk in looking to trade in my 996tt for a new 991tt its worth 40k bc its a 13 year old car with wear and tear but once they have to sell it its immediately a hot collector car/performance bargain @ 50k+. Listen, I get the game. I understand the dealer is in business to make money but what I'm offering is still a great short term return for them, they had the car for less than a week.
I'm going to contact the sales manager and send an email with my offer indicating to contact me for a credit card deposit, I want to make sure that my offer actually got to the proper party. After that I'm going to wait for them to contact me and/or move on to other opportunities. I like the car but I'm not attached to it. I feel that my offer is an accurate reflection of the market based on discussions on this forum.
I'm going to contact the sales manager and send an email with my offer indicating to contact me for a credit card deposit, I want to make sure that my offer actually got to the proper party. After that I'm going to wait for them to contact me and/or move on to other opportunities. I like the car but I'm not attached to it. I feel that my offer is an accurate reflection of the market based on discussions on this forum.
KBB/NADA values do not really mean much with cars this old and this specialized. Location, condition and lineage dictate sale prices. Where is the car? And how long has it been at this dealership?
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Car is located in SE I'm in NE. They own it. It was a trade in on a new 991tt to a Porsche dealer. Salesperson disclosed car needs tires (2008 date stamped) and service that's why we're 3k apart. He thinks I should pay for it; I think they should. Plus again there's the factor that I'm not there and I'm buying long distance maybe they don't want to sell the car to some one who's not going to Service it with them?
I was only mentioning KBB/NADA for what they paid the prior owner on trade-in. KBB/NADA Trade-in ranges from 38-42k That's why I believe that their cost is low on this car and I'm sticking to my guns.
I was only mentioning KBB/NADA for what they paid the prior owner on trade-in. KBB/NADA Trade-in ranges from 38-42k That's why I believe that their cost is low on this car and I'm sticking to my guns.
#14
Fly down to see the car. Check it out for yourself. The dealer tends to work with a real person. You can ship the car back or drive it back. I can't imagine buying a car worth more than $10k without seeing it first