19" vs 18" wheels
#16
i would avoid both 19''s as well as that shop in your link ( wheel dynamics ) like the plague. 996 gt2's came with 18's for a reason. if you want the lower wider stance and to fill the wheel wells properly? order some properly sized 18's and lower the car lol.
i found 19's to be very harsh. also, want to add that duchunters comment on p zeros and harshness was on point. they are noticeably harsher than the michi's ive been running for the last however many years. but! they are widely available, N rated and cheaper!
i'll live with them, as i'm harsh too
i found 19's to be very harsh. also, want to add that duchunters comment on p zeros and harshness was on point. they are noticeably harsher than the michi's ive been running for the last however many years. but! they are widely available, N rated and cheaper!
i'll live with them, as i'm harsh too
#17
About HRE vibrations: 2 or 3 piece rims, and those with "R" lips, or reverse lips suffer horrible vibrations in heavy rain above a certain speed. It can be seen in many manufacturers rims with similar designs. Just FYI
#18
Rennlist Member
I have Modulare wheels configured in 18". Model M11, The rears have a 6 " lip and the fronts are about 2 inches. They are customized to your order! I have three piece wheels and they are great! They are cheaper then HRE's. You can also use the Porsche crests for center cap.
http://www.modularewheels.com/
http://www.modularewheels.com/
#20
Duc Hunter, thank you for the information. After all my research I thnk I'll stick with stock. One issue that was raised if one deviates from the offsetsof OEM wheels and with the all wheel drive system you are linmited in tires available. Going with custom HRE wheels would be about $6K, So in an effort not to mess with the car and keep cost down will just invest in some better quality 18" tires and keep stock rims for now. Although this supplier says in the summer they will have something matching the OEM 18" specs
http://wheeldynamics.com/porsche-cars.html
http://wheeldynamics.com/porsche-cars.html
The first batch of 18" wheels will hit around Summer time and will only be 18x8 and 18x10, it is the plan to have the 18x11 follow soon after but may not come until later in the year (no real ETA on the 11" rears) but the first run should be here in roughly 60-days from now.
The development of the new Rotary Spun designed 18" wheels had drivers who are interested in a stronger wheel for more spirited driving. Our plans are to have a track demo put out to test the over-all quality and durability while under stress of track conditions. This will probably happen sometime in the Summer.
I've attached some photos.
#21
Rennlist Member
I have been told forged wheels crack more than 3 piece design. seems like a better choice. that is what BBS uses.
I loved 19s for street on my old 993 turbo. I ran continental sport contacts and really liked them in all conditions.
I loved 19s for street on my old 993 turbo. I ran continental sport contacts and really liked them in all conditions.
#22
Reference: Most 3-pc wheels are forged (centers), are you talking about a mono-block construction?
#23
Rennlist Member
I am wondering who you have conversations with.
#25
A forged wheel is more likely to BEND in aluminum than a cast wheel.
Casting causes the metal structure to be like glass....strong but brittle. When it fails is does so catastrophically. In the case of wheel this is a cack.....I did once as a kid accidentally drop a cast aluminum intake manifold for a V8 and it cracked into pieces.
Forging makes the metal MUCH stronger than casting, and it behaves more like traditional steel, it bends and bends....until it totally fails....at which point it to cracks/snaps. This is a much hard process to do (forging) and produces a much stronger wheels, of for the same weight of material (aluminum). As a result people can take a lot of weight OUT of a forged wheel, and still have more strength than a cast one. This is why forged wheels are lighter, there is less material (metal) because the strength of the material is so much higher.
In the end, forged wheels and cast wheels can both be made too weak for a track day...lets say. At any given strength of wheel, the forged wheel will me much lighter........and at any given WEIGHT of wheel the forged wheel will be much stronger. Make sense?
Casting causes the metal structure to be like glass....strong but brittle. When it fails is does so catastrophically. In the case of wheel this is a cack.....I did once as a kid accidentally drop a cast aluminum intake manifold for a V8 and it cracked into pieces.
Forging makes the metal MUCH stronger than casting, and it behaves more like traditional steel, it bends and bends....until it totally fails....at which point it to cracks/snaps. This is a much hard process to do (forging) and produces a much stronger wheels, of for the same weight of material (aluminum). As a result people can take a lot of weight OUT of a forged wheel, and still have more strength than a cast one. This is why forged wheels are lighter, there is less material (metal) because the strength of the material is so much higher.
In the end, forged wheels and cast wheels can both be made too weak for a track day...lets say. At any given strength of wheel, the forged wheel will me much lighter........and at any given WEIGHT of wheel the forged wheel will be much stronger. Make sense?
#26
A forged wheel is more likely to BEND in aluminum than a cast wheel.
Casting causes the metal structure to be like glass....strong but brittle. When it fails is does so catastrophically. In the case of wheel this is a cack.....I did once as a kid accidentally drop a cast aluminum intake manifold for a V8 and it cracked into pieces.
Forging makes the metal MUCH stronger than casting, and it behaves more like traditional steel, it bends and bends....until it totally fails....at which point it to cracks/snaps. This is a much hard process to do (forging) and produces a much stronger wheels, of for the same weight of material (aluminum). As a result people can take a lot of weight OUT of a forged wheel, and still have more strength than a cast one. This is why forged wheels are lighter, there is less material (metal) because the strength of the material is so much higher.
In the end, forged wheels and cast wheels can both be made too weak for a track day...lets say. At any given strength of wheel, the forged wheel will me much lighter........and at any given WEIGHT of wheel the forged wheel will be much stronger. Make sense?
Casting causes the metal structure to be like glass....strong but brittle. When it fails is does so catastrophically. In the case of wheel this is a cack.....I did once as a kid accidentally drop a cast aluminum intake manifold for a V8 and it cracked into pieces.
Forging makes the metal MUCH stronger than casting, and it behaves more like traditional steel, it bends and bends....until it totally fails....at which point it to cracks/snaps. This is a much hard process to do (forging) and produces a much stronger wheels, of for the same weight of material (aluminum). As a result people can take a lot of weight OUT of a forged wheel, and still have more strength than a cast one. This is why forged wheels are lighter, there is less material (metal) because the strength of the material is so much higher.
In the end, forged wheels and cast wheels can both be made too weak for a track day...lets say. At any given strength of wheel, the forged wheel will me much lighter........and at any given WEIGHT of wheel the forged wheel will be much stronger. Make sense?
This is where the choices of engineering a wheel with weight vs. strength comes into play. 99% of the buyers as asking how light the wheels are and 1% are asking how strong they are. This IMO is why most companies chose to shave the additional material from the wheels to make them lighter instead of keeping the additional weight and having them stronger.
#28
Also most after-market manufactures will offer lower off-sets or even wider track wheels thus giving you a wider stance (performance for wheels)