How does my flywheel look?
#16
Race Director
Well, in case you still have any doubts, it does matter.
My info is the stock clutch can handle -- though not without some risk -- a 10% bump in HP/torque.
Trouble is with an engine making this extra HP/torque the driver generally takes advantage of this and the clutch gets more, well, abuse, than it would otherwise and the clutch often goes bad sooner.
In the case of 690hp the stock clutch is just not up to it. I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't get clutch slippage from day one.
I don't know what clutch kit you would want to use to handle 690hp. But there are good sources of this info and I think you are in contact with one such source.
Whenever doing a clutch I always used a very high temperature/heavy grease to lube any pivot points unless forbidden by the automaker or clutch maker. Even when not forbidden I used just a tiny smear/dab of grease.
If a clutch is making noise when the pedal is depressed or released this noise doesn't have to be coming from the clutch linkage or hardware per se, it can come from the clutch pedal hardware. I have had my Boxster's pedal linkage get a bit noisy and this is taken care of by having the tech apply a small amount of lube. He knows where to apply it and he contorts himself all the time to get at the pedal are so I have this done.
I do not believe any disassembly is required but if the pedal hardware is old and thus probably worn a disassembly with a thorough cleaning and a replacement of worn parts (bushings, shaft, ?) might be called for it a bit of lube doesn't help of if the noise comes back too soon.
My info is the stock clutch can handle -- though not without some risk -- a 10% bump in HP/torque.
Trouble is with an engine making this extra HP/torque the driver generally takes advantage of this and the clutch gets more, well, abuse, than it would otherwise and the clutch often goes bad sooner.
In the case of 690hp the stock clutch is just not up to it. I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't get clutch slippage from day one.
I don't know what clutch kit you would want to use to handle 690hp. But there are good sources of this info and I think you are in contact with one such source.
Whenever doing a clutch I always used a very high temperature/heavy grease to lube any pivot points unless forbidden by the automaker or clutch maker. Even when not forbidden I used just a tiny smear/dab of grease.
If a clutch is making noise when the pedal is depressed or released this noise doesn't have to be coming from the clutch linkage or hardware per se, it can come from the clutch pedal hardware. I have had my Boxster's pedal linkage get a bit noisy and this is taken care of by having the tech apply a small amount of lube. He knows where to apply it and he contorts himself all the time to get at the pedal are so I have this done.
I do not believe any disassembly is required but if the pedal hardware is old and thus probably worn a disassembly with a thorough cleaning and a replacement of worn parts (bushings, shaft, ?) might be called for it a bit of lube doesn't help of if the noise comes back too soon.
#17
I'd get the 764PP/4.0disc/964RS LWFW. Best clutch I've ever had. Zero downsides. I've been running it for the last year. I'm pretty sure Kevin sells these also. Talk to him as he can also update your tune to prevent any stalling issues due to the LWFW. He bumps up the idle speed a bit which also plays a part in minimizing any rattle. My clutch does not rattle at all.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Kevin helped me select the secret sauce that will be my clutch. Waiting on parts.
Doing a couple other things while I'm in there. It'll be s bit before its back together.
Doing a couple other things while I'm in there. It'll be s bit before its back together.