Turbo Guru required ASAP.
11-11-2014, 12:26 PM
#46
Race Director
^somewhere above 550 crank assuming one has installed a 5 bar fpr i would imagine fuel ( or lack thereof ) can become an issue, which this reads like so i'm with you on that. but it does not read like a maf issue to me, but i'm "guessing" too.
..and mac, the quote you referenced was from a contributor, not the op. i don't believe the op is mafless? he indicated in his original post, he has already replaced the maf. even still, that doesn't sound like maf issues at all. or not any i have had, should say.
..and mac, the quote you referenced was from a contributor, not the op. i don't believe the op is mafless? he indicated in his original post, he has already replaced the maf. even still, that doesn't sound like maf issues at all. or not any i have had, should say.
And I realize the OP's set up is not MAF-less. That is my point, well my guess as to what is the solution.
However let's see what the logged data logged shows.
11-11-2014, 03:32 PM
#47
!["02996ttx50's Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23759d7b' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
i understand. i feel i know most any maf malfunction symptoms merely from having had them. while perusing datalogs, leave me oddly resembling the nipper dog baffled by the sound of his masters voice.
11-11-2014, 05:23 PM
#49
make sure it's coming with the o-ring inside! its probably only the o-ring you need btw.
Hope it fixes all the issues.
cheers,
Rob
Hope it fixes all the issues.
cheers,
Rob
11-11-2014, 06:24 PM
#50
well let's say at least mid 500's hp, crank, or ~500whp.
The injectors don't help with the pump duty cycle, injector duty cycle yes but not the fuel pump itself.
I agree, different issue from the 3/4 throttle issue, I think.
Definitely some strange going on, but a log will be a great starting point.
Seems to be some guys on 6S.O. with the 997 upgrade, but am continually researching it...definitely possible with some small tweaks.
Would be a sweet upgrade to do the 90L 997 tank with pump...
Trying a big direct power line to the pump w. HD relay would be worth a shot, can only help
The injectors don't help with the pump duty cycle, injector duty cycle yes but not the fuel pump itself.
I agree, different issue from the 3/4 throttle issue, I think.
Definitely some strange going on, but a log will be a great starting point.
Seems to be some guys on 6S.O. with the 997 upgrade, but am continually researching it...definitely possible with some small tweaks.
Would be a sweet upgrade to do the 90L 997 tank with pump...
Trying a big direct power line to the pump w. HD relay would be worth a shot, can only help
11-11-2014, 06:29 PM
#51
Very strange. Like I said, I've never really noticed it as I generally never put the hammer all the way to then carpet, just enough to get max boost.
11-11-2014, 08:20 PM
#52
i hammer down constantly less out of necessity! but more in recognition of an electronic throttle and that when i learned to drive we didn't have them newfangled throttle bodies.. i just dont want there to be even an inkling of an ambiguation as to what i'm asking of the car lol
works for me
works for me
11-11-2014, 10:21 PM
#53
Might be worth pulling the pump out and seeing if the 'bowl'/sump is still there and lined up right.
11-11-2014, 10:37 PM
#54
11-20-2014, 02:42 PM
#55
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Gents, i'm back from hols.
Today i've replaced my oil cap and checked all vacuum hoses were secure etc.
What i'd like to know now is what the voltage should be at the input to the N75 boost controller and what controls it.
Is it a proportional solenoid or on/off? i'm assuming it should be 12v or 0v for on and off?
Today i've replaced my oil cap and checked all vacuum hoses were secure etc.
What i'd like to know now is what the voltage should be at the input to the N75 boost controller and what controls it.
Is it a proportional solenoid or on/off? i'm assuming it should be 12v or 0v for on and off?
11-20-2014, 02:50 PM
#56
AFAIK, N75 sees 12V pulses(many a second) to control airflow, 0V=wastegates get full airflow/low boost, 12V valve bypasses the airflow and wastegates see less airflow=more boost...more 12V pulses/second=more boost
11-20-2014, 02:59 PM
#58
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I think its the opposite way round. Here is how i'm guessing it works.
12v opens the input (from the tee at diverter valves) to the wastegates.
0v closes the input and lets it through to be fed back in to the throttle body input.
Does that sound like the correct airflow description?
I'm pretty sure about the voltages but only because i've been blowing through it with voltage on!
the thing is i've got 9v between pins and not enough to open the input to the wastegates!, for some reason i've got -3v on my ground pin!!!! I'm thinking this is my problem but can't find a wiring diagram to check it out or determine where the voltage is coming from.
12v opens the input (from the tee at diverter valves) to the wastegates.
0v closes the input and lets it through to be fed back in to the throttle body input.
Does that sound like the correct airflow description?
I'm pretty sure about the voltages but only because i've been blowing through it with voltage on!
the thing is i've got 9v between pins and not enough to open the input to the wastegates!, for some reason i've got -3v on my ground pin!!!! I'm thinking this is my problem but can't find a wiring diagram to check it out or determine where the voltage is coming from.
11-20-2014, 03:05 PM
#59
AFAIK, 0 Volts at N75 = no boost...because if the valve/electrics fail, then it is fail-safed for no boost
