Front end feels loose
#1
Front end feels loose
I've had an issue with my '01 TT for a little while now. The front end occationally feels loose and vague in regards to steering feel. The weird part is, it isn't always consistent. It usually takes some rough/uneven pavement at highway speeds (55-65+?) and all of a sudden steering feedback sort of gets more numb, and I can move the steering wheel back and fourth with somewhat of a lag in response. Another symptom that is probably related, is the steering wheel tends to have vibrations in it more than normal. I don't feel the vibration driving around normal roads, only highway speed.
In an effort to fix the issue, I've done the following (from oldest to most recent):
1. Rennline drop links were installed, this was not trying to fix the problem but worth noting.
2. I had new tie rod ends (inner and outter) installed by my shop, along with a full alignment to factory turbo specs. Had new rear tires put on (fronts are still healthy) and all wheels balanced. Once I got the car back, the problem still persisted.
3. Next step, I ordered new front control and track arms, OEM 996TT parts from Pelican. I installed them myself this past weekend, also put new front swaybar bushings in. Torqued everything to spec, except the ball joint and the chassis mount on the control arm. Couldnt get a socket on them, so I made them nice and tight with wrenches. Note: I tightened the control arm chassis mount with the car on the ground, so the bushing isn't stressed when it is sitting static.
This is where I am at now. The problem still persists, and I am getting pretty aggrivated by it. Now I'm asking the communitiy what my next step should be.
What I am thinking it *might* be:
-steering linkage
-rack mounting points
-internal to the rack (Hope not! $$)
-subframe mouonts/bushings
-Front diff mount?
-Strut mount (although it doesn't clunk or make typical bad strut mount noises)
Any input or thoughts? I don't want to just keep throwing money at it, and I am competant enough to do a lot myself. That said, I am not opposed to bringing the car back in. The hard part with that is, Sometimes the car feels OK (esp around town) so my shop might not see what I am talking about. But it is once you hit the bumps at highway speed that the problem surfaces. Then even on smooth pavement, it is like something gets upset and the car still feels bad for a while.
Thanks for taking the time reading my long post, I truly appreciate it.
Connor
In an effort to fix the issue, I've done the following (from oldest to most recent):
1. Rennline drop links were installed, this was not trying to fix the problem but worth noting.
2. I had new tie rod ends (inner and outter) installed by my shop, along with a full alignment to factory turbo specs. Had new rear tires put on (fronts are still healthy) and all wheels balanced. Once I got the car back, the problem still persisted.
3. Next step, I ordered new front control and track arms, OEM 996TT parts from Pelican. I installed them myself this past weekend, also put new front swaybar bushings in. Torqued everything to spec, except the ball joint and the chassis mount on the control arm. Couldnt get a socket on them, so I made them nice and tight with wrenches. Note: I tightened the control arm chassis mount with the car on the ground, so the bushing isn't stressed when it is sitting static.
This is where I am at now. The problem still persists, and I am getting pretty aggrivated by it. Now I'm asking the communitiy what my next step should be.
What I am thinking it *might* be:
-steering linkage
-rack mounting points
-internal to the rack (Hope not! $$)
-subframe mouonts/bushings
-Front diff mount?
-Strut mount (although it doesn't clunk or make typical bad strut mount noises)
Any input or thoughts? I don't want to just keep throwing money at it, and I am competant enough to do a lot myself. That said, I am not opposed to bringing the car back in. The hard part with that is, Sometimes the car feels OK (esp around town) so my shop might not see what I am talking about. But it is once you hit the bumps at highway speed that the problem surfaces. Then even on smooth pavement, it is like something gets upset and the car still feels bad for a while.
Thanks for taking the time reading my long post, I truly appreciate it.
Connor
#3
I think that would cause it to feel bouncy, no? That's not what I'm feeling. I'm not quite sure though if the shocks have been replaced. I didn't get much history when I bought this car unfortunately.
#4
A change in steering feel when on rough pavement is often a sign of shocks being tired.
Proper tire inflation pressure is also critical. Do not overlook the simplest explanation.
What are the alignment numbers? Just because the car was aligned doesn't mean the settings are appropriate.
Also, I would hope (expect) the tech would at the time of the alignment give all the steering/suspension components a thorough check looking for any signs of damage, or wear.
Given the behavior of the car prior to the alignment after the alignment I would have had the tech test drive the car and on road surfaces that bring out the behavior and offer his opinion as to what could be going on.
Proper tire inflation pressure is also critical. Do not overlook the simplest explanation.
What are the alignment numbers? Just because the car was aligned doesn't mean the settings are appropriate.
Also, I would hope (expect) the tech would at the time of the alignment give all the steering/suspension components a thorough check looking for any signs of damage, or wear.
Given the behavior of the car prior to the alignment after the alignment I would have had the tech test drive the car and on road surfaces that bring out the behavior and offer his opinion as to what could be going on.
Trending Topics
#8
Cb,
Front tires, using oem rims ? What size tires ? What brand tires ? How old are they ? Same q's for rear tires.
Also what tire pressures ?
this sounds like its your tires or your wheels are not tq correctly.
Front tires, using oem rims ? What size tires ? What brand tires ? How old are they ? Same q's for rear tires.
Also what tire pressures ?
this sounds like its your tires or your wheels are not tq correctly.
#9
Tires are contisport contact 2's, oem TT sizes on oem hollow twists. I will have to check the pressures. Rears are brand new, fronts I am not so sure on the age. I bought the wheels on ebay over the winter and the fronts were/are still healthy regarding tread depth. Wheels are torqued to 90 ft-lb.
#10
Tires are contisport contact 2's, oem TT sizes on oem hollow twists. I will have to check the pressures. Rears are brand new, fronts I am not so sure on the age. I bought the wheels on ebay over the winter and the fronts were/are still healthy regarding tread depth. Wheels are torqued to 90 ft-lb.
I.e.
Smart car 2009 I own: Bridgestone tires ; car drives and feels solid when turning hard.
Smart car 2013 I own: Conti tires; car drives like its about to flip over, delay in steering input is massive. Good thing this one is lease.
#11
Hmm I never considered the tires as a possible culprit. Im in central NJ on the shore. My dad has a 997 GT2, maybe I ought to check the tire diameters and see if I can test those out. They are quite a bit fatter (325's) though so it may feel different anyway. Tires are pilot sport cups btw.