broken axle question
06-10-2013, 01:45 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
broken axle question
broke my drivers side axle at a drag event this weekend.
removed the broken axle now need to get the new axle in. any ideas as to what suspension parts need to be removed? cant get the new axle joints to bend enough to get installed, and dont want to remove anything more than needed.
removed the broken axle now need to get the new axle in. any ideas as to what suspension parts need to be removed? cant get the new axle joints to bend enough to get installed, and dont want to remove anything more than needed.
06-10-2013, 05:37 PM
#2
Race Director
Removing the rear drive shaft for a manual:
Lift the vehicle. Remove wheel and undo axle nut. Apply the foot brake and parking brake.
Push protective cover (a tube in the drawing) over the drive shaft.
Undo the drive shaft at the transmission flange.
Unscrew the lower linkage for the head light height adjustment ( counter hold with an open ended wrench. Only the left side! [sic]
Loosen stabilizer mount at stabilizer (counter hold with open ended wrench).
Remove the lower fastening screw of the spring strut.
Undo the nut on the tire rod end (if necessary counter hold with Torx screwdriver). Press tie rod end off with a press out tool.
Disengage the parking brake cable at the end parking brake lever. To do this remove the floor of the oddments tray in the center console. Undo the 2 M8 nuts. Remove the tab washer from the retaiing lug with a screw driver. Take the corresponding parking brake cable out of the guide.
Press the wear indicator/speed sensor wire out of the holder. Undo both upper axle struts and remove teh screws. Press the drive shaft out, if necessary with a wheel hub extractor.
Swivel the wheel carrier outwards until there is enough space for the drive shaft to be extended. A second fitter is required!
Lift the vehicle. Remove wheel and undo axle nut. Apply the foot brake and parking brake.
Push protective cover (a tube in the drawing) over the drive shaft.
Undo the drive shaft at the transmission flange.
Unscrew the lower linkage for the head light height adjustment ( counter hold with an open ended wrench. Only the left side! [sic]
Loosen stabilizer mount at stabilizer (counter hold with open ended wrench).
Remove the lower fastening screw of the spring strut.
Undo the nut on the tire rod end (if necessary counter hold with Torx screwdriver). Press tie rod end off with a press out tool.
Disengage the parking brake cable at the end parking brake lever. To do this remove the floor of the oddments tray in the center console. Undo the 2 M8 nuts. Remove the tab washer from the retaiing lug with a screw driver. Take the corresponding parking brake cable out of the guide.
Press the wear indicator/speed sensor wire out of the holder. Undo both upper axle struts and remove teh screws. Press the drive shaft out, if necessary with a wheel hub extractor.
Swivel the wheel carrier outwards until there is enough space for the drive shaft to be extended. A second fitter is required!
06-10-2013, 06:30 PM
#4
can't remember but pretty sure the axle can be removed/installed without removing much...I can pull a wheel off later and have a look if you'd like
remember spline side(wheel side) in first then transaxle side
headlight sensor is in rear too(measure against front sensor to level/aim), tie-rod=rear toe-link
remember spline side(wheel side) in first then transaxle side
headlight sensor is in rear too(measure against front sensor to level/aim), tie-rod=rear toe-link
06-10-2013, 06:33 PM
#5
BTW, what side did you break? and what power/tires are you running? 
06-10-2013, 07:54 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
can't remember but pretty sure the axle can be removed/installed without removing much...I can pull a wheel off later and have a look if you'd like
remember spline side(wheel side) in first then transaxle side
headlight sensor is in rear too(measure against front sensor to level/aim), tie-rod=rear toe-link
remember spline side(wheel side) in first then transaxle side
headlight sensor is in rear too(measure against front sensor to level/aim), tie-rod=rear toe-link
pics would be a great help!
drivers side broke. 509 rwhp 562 ft/lbs 315/30-18 r888 rubber. broke when i got wheel hop during a burnout
06-10-2013, 08:04 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Trending Topics
06-10-2013, 08:05 PM
#8
the coilover will have zero 'pressure' on the suspension when the wheel if off(disconnect the sway bar end-link)
I will go out soon and pull the wheel off and see if I see the 'logical' way to get the axle in/out
I will go out soon and pull the wheel off and see if I see the 'logical' way to get the axle in/out
06-10-2013, 09:27 PM
#9
had a good look at it...
looks easiest/fastest(under 10 minutes) to remove both outer bolts on the upper control arms/links and rear toe link outer nut(drop link down), and remove the lower coilover bolt...then swing away the upright/hub assembly, should give you the space and length to push splined axle end in and attach the bolted axle end(inner)...
I took many pictures if any further guidance is needed
looks easiest/fastest(under 10 minutes) to remove both outer bolts on the upper control arms/links and rear toe link outer nut(drop link down), and remove the lower coilover bolt...then swing away the upright/hub assembly, should give you the space and length to push splined axle end in and attach the bolted axle end(inner)...
I took many pictures if any further guidance is needed
06-10-2013, 10:00 PM
#10
Race Director
The instructions are right out of the Turbo factory manual so if they are wrong blame Porsche.
06-11-2013, 08:46 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanx for the pics!! ill tackle this after i get a few hrs sleep and let you know how it goes.
macster i didnt know the headlights had sensors in the back. also never heard of tie rods in the rear as its fixed. i think its more a naming thing
macster i didnt know the headlights had sensors in the back. also never heard of tie rods in the rear as its fixed. i think its more a naming thing
06-11-2013, 04:10 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
FINISHED!! thanx for all the help 993gt and macster. the pic was exactly what i needed. removed 1 additional lower link and because i have gmg adj. links everywere simple hand tools were all i needed. no ball joints had to be removed or the headlight sensor nor the ebrake cable.
took a few minutes to figure out the angle needed to slip the splines into the wheel side but not bad considering im by myself. snugged the 32mm nut up 3 times to ensure the splines were lined up. just waiting for my buddy to drop by to hold the brake while i finish the final torque.
is the 32mm nut the same torque as the front? 350 ft /lbs?
took a few minutes to figure out the angle needed to slip the splines into the wheel side but not bad considering im by myself. snugged the 32mm nut up 3 times to ensure the splines were lined up. just waiting for my buddy to drop by to hold the brake while i finish the final torque.
is the 32mm nut the same torque as the front? 350 ft /lbs?
06-11-2013, 07:08 PM
#13
Race Director
FINISHED!! thanx for all the help 993gt and macster. the pic was exactly what i needed. removed 1 additional lower link and because i have gmg adj. links everywere simple hand tools were all i needed. no ball joints had to be removed or the headlight sensor nor the ebrake cable.
took a few minutes to figure out the angle needed to slip the splines into the wheel side but not bad considering im by myself. snugged the 32mm nut up 3 times to ensure the splines were lined up. just waiting for my buddy to drop by to hold the brake while i finish the final torque.
is the 32mm nut the same torque as the front? 350 ft /lbs?
took a few minutes to figure out the angle needed to slip the splines into the wheel side but not bad considering im by myself. snugged the 32mm nut up 3 times to ensure the splines were lined up. just waiting for my buddy to drop by to hold the brake while i finish the final torque.
is the 32mm nut the same torque as the front? 350 ft /lbs?
06-12-2013, 06:11 PM
#15
happy to help, glad it worked out good!
