996TT exhaust swap DIY questions
11-17-2012, 01:17 AM
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996TT exhaust swap DIY questions
I bought a used exhaust system and am considering doing the swap myself. I looked for some DIY help but couldn't find anything. I have a few questions:
1) If I decide to let someone else do this, what will an indy shop charge for this swap? (turbo back, not swapping headers).
2) Is bumper removal necessary (recommended)?
3) Any tricks or special things you can tell me to make the job easier?
4) Do OEM tips fit on a Milltek system?
5) Should I replace the OEM mounting hardware while I'm doing this project? If so, what specifically should I acquire?
I've done plugs, coils, f-pipe, diverter valves, brake pads, brake fluid replacement, brake ducts, bumper removal, oil changes. . . so I'm not a total newb.
Thanks in advance for your help.
1) If I decide to let someone else do this, what will an indy shop charge for this swap? (turbo back, not swapping headers).
2) Is bumper removal necessary (recommended)?
3) Any tricks or special things you can tell me to make the job easier?
4) Do OEM tips fit on a Milltek system?
5) Should I replace the OEM mounting hardware while I'm doing this project? If so, what specifically should I acquire?
I've done plugs, coils, f-pipe, diverter valves, brake pads, brake fluid replacement, brake ducts, bumper removal, oil changes. . . so I'm not a total newb.
Thanks in advance for your help.
11-17-2012, 03:30 AM
#2
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it's been a couple years, but as I remember
bumper does not have to come off
put the car on jack stands
used the floor jack and a 2x4 to support the exhaust while loosening everything up
the lugs to the turbos are a bear too break free, overnight soaking with your favorite penetrating oil overnight is a good idea
oxygen sensors are a pain to deal with, but you have the experience from what you have done
might be a good time to swap out the sensors
figure 4 hours
really not a big deal
swapped from stock to Europipe to an X system, and I don't have much more experience than you
I did keep small children away as I exercised my vocabulary
bumper does not have to come off
put the car on jack stands
used the floor jack and a 2x4 to support the exhaust while loosening everything up
the lugs to the turbos are a bear too break free, overnight soaking with your favorite penetrating oil overnight is a good idea
oxygen sensors are a pain to deal with, but you have the experience from what you have done
might be a good time to swap out the sensors
figure 4 hours
really not a big deal
swapped from stock to Europipe to an X system, and I don't have much more experience than you
I did keep small children away as I exercised my vocabulary
11-17-2012, 09:36 AM
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Biggest problem that my shop ran into was breaking free the bolts that connect to the turbos. One bolt broke off and they had to drill it out. Pulling off the airbox helps to gain access as well.
11-17-2012, 04:04 PM
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I have just done mine last saturday .
Take your bumper off , it will make the job so much easier and you will not damage the thread on the turbos studs....Especially if you do it on the floor take it off.
Buy a complete set of new nuts + 2 gaskets (turbo to exhaust) + a couple of turbo studs too just in case+ a tap too.
24hrs before starting , spray some WD40 or lubricant on nuts and lambda.
Remove air box.
Disconnect lambda on each sides + pull wires of the clips on both side of engine.
Remove bumper+ disconnet socket . unscrew screws for rear light , make the lights loose.
To remove the bumper get someone to give you a hand , it is recommended....
Remove the long aluminium bar (only 2 bolts)
Remove rear heat insulation shield.
Use the longest spanner to remove the 4 nuts on each side, not easy and it will take time.
Put a jack under the exhaust and undo the staps , slide them on the outside.
Now with someone pull exhaust backward and don't make it move up and down too much as you will damage the thread on the turbo studs. The system is really heavy so don't do it alone....
Put the system on the floor and when you do it make sure the lambda wires come down freely , they can be stuck on the side of the engine so just watch out not to damage them.
Remember the way they are fitting on the exhaust as they are different ( take a note, wires have different colors)
To remove the lambdas you need a good long spanner and with a mallet give a good wack to undo them in one go.
Now put the lambda on your new system in the right way , put a little bit of copper grease on the threat and tight them up but not too hard.
Put your new system, put the strap don't tight them up yet, put the nuts, don't tight them up too hard ( metal of the studs and nuts are not very hard ). Tight the straps at the end.
Put the rest back on, make sure the wire for the lambda are secured in the clips on the side of the engine.
Be careful when you put the bumper back on !!! Take your time with a helper . it is really easy but on the top near the rear lights it is tight and it is really easy to snap the corner of one light , that is the reason why I make them loose at the start !!!!
It is really an easy job , just take your time . Don't do it on your own the first time.
If you replace a stud on the turbo you need to clean the thread with a tap. I had to replace 2 when I did mine.
If you keep the bumper on to remove your exhaust you will have to move it up and down many time when you go backward and you will damage the thread on the studs and you don't want that. These studs are very small in diameter and they are pretty fagile .
Enjoy the DIY !!!!!!
Take your bumper off , it will make the job so much easier and you will not damage the thread on the turbos studs....Especially if you do it on the floor take it off.
Buy a complete set of new nuts + 2 gaskets (turbo to exhaust) + a couple of turbo studs too just in case+ a tap too.
24hrs before starting , spray some WD40 or lubricant on nuts and lambda.
Remove air box.
Disconnect lambda on each sides + pull wires of the clips on both side of engine.
Remove bumper+ disconnet socket . unscrew screws for rear light , make the lights loose.
To remove the bumper get someone to give you a hand , it is recommended....
Remove the long aluminium bar (only 2 bolts)
Remove rear heat insulation shield.
Use the longest spanner to remove the 4 nuts on each side, not easy and it will take time.
Put a jack under the exhaust and undo the staps , slide them on the outside.
Now with someone pull exhaust backward and don't make it move up and down too much as you will damage the thread on the turbo studs. The system is really heavy so don't do it alone....
Put the system on the floor and when you do it make sure the lambda wires come down freely , they can be stuck on the side of the engine so just watch out not to damage them.
Remember the way they are fitting on the exhaust as they are different ( take a note, wires have different colors)
To remove the lambdas you need a good long spanner and with a mallet give a good wack to undo them in one go.
Now put the lambda on your new system in the right way , put a little bit of copper grease on the threat and tight them up but not too hard.
Put your new system, put the strap don't tight them up yet, put the nuts, don't tight them up too hard ( metal of the studs and nuts are not very hard ). Tight the straps at the end.
Put the rest back on, make sure the wire for the lambda are secured in the clips on the side of the engine.
Be careful when you put the bumper back on !!! Take your time with a helper . it is really easy but on the top near the rear lights it is tight and it is really easy to snap the corner of one light , that is the reason why I make them loose at the start !!!!
It is really an easy job , just take your time . Don't do it on your own the first time.
If you replace a stud on the turbo you need to clean the thread with a tap. I had to replace 2 when I did mine.
If you keep the bumper on to remove your exhaust you will have to move it up and down many time when you go backward and you will damage the thread on the studs and you don't want that. These studs are very small in diameter and they are pretty fagile .
Enjoy the DIY !!!!!!
11-17-2012, 04:07 PM
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I did jack the car on both sides to have more room under the car and have an easy access to the 2 torx screw inside the top of the wheel arch but remember to put some wedges on the front wheels to secure the car!!
11-28-2012, 06:27 PM
#7
Instructor
Hi, I've done it twice in the last 3 months as well. Not really that difficult. I did not remove the rear cover and it took about 1 hour on the last swap. Swapped the stock muffler for an aftermarket unit. The stock muffler weighs around 70 lbs. I used a floor jack in the center of the muffler to support it. Rolled the car up on some ramps and had enough space under the car.
As most say, the studs can be a problem and make sure you use new sealing rings. I used antisieze on all the studs/nut connections. If you are removing a stock exhaust, make sure you unbolt the clamp completely and it really has to be "shoved" all the way to the outside or the muffler will hang up on the clips.
I do not remove the o2 sensors until after I get the muffler out. I disconnect the sensors from the wiring harness on both sides of the airbox and pull the wires down below the engine. Trying to figgue out how the plugs come apart is one of the most difficult things. Once the muffler is out, the sensor's are easier to remove and I swap them out in sequence so I don't mix them up.
Oh yeah, make sure the car is cold and only run it enough to get it up on ramps or the turbos/cats get really hot really fast and then you have to let them cool down.
As most say, the studs can be a problem and make sure you use new sealing rings. I used antisieze on all the studs/nut connections. If you are removing a stock exhaust, make sure you unbolt the clamp completely and it really has to be "shoved" all the way to the outside or the muffler will hang up on the clips.
I do not remove the o2 sensors until after I get the muffler out. I disconnect the sensors from the wiring harness on both sides of the airbox and pull the wires down below the engine. Trying to figgue out how the plugs come apart is one of the most difficult things. Once the muffler is out, the sensor's are easier to remove and I swap them out in sequence so I don't mix them up.
Oh yeah, make sure the car is cold and only run it enough to get it up on ramps or the turbos/cats get really hot really fast and then you have to let them cool down.
