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966 Rear spoiler fix

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Old 11-07-2012, 04:18 PM
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Mgcl
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Default 966 Rear spoiler fix

Guys I have had success repairing the hydraulic pump by replacing the worm gear with a new one that i manufacture.I also have a vary easy and simple way of fixing your wing to a permanent up position. If anyone is interested in ether of this two repairs i can be contacted at 734-523-8119 Mike I also would like to try fixing the cylinders if anyone has a leaky one to send me
Old 11-07-2012, 05:33 PM
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jcalhoun
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Please post pictures or a video of it working. Did you integrate the limit switches and speed activation?
Old 11-07-2012, 05:52 PM
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Very nice offer. Pics or a video would help alot. Mine is currently working just fine, but I would also love to hear what you have done to make the repairs.
Old 11-08-2012, 02:56 AM
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Do you have a fix for the plastic link that connects the two pistons?
Old 11-08-2012, 08:43 AM
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Mgcl
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I have fix one plastic link with pinning it and epoxy but i would be willing to see about makeing a new one out of aluminun it would take a bit of work but i am sure it can be done
Old 11-08-2012, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mgcl
I have fix one plastic link with pinning it and epoxy but i would be willing to see about makeing a new one out of aluminun it would take a bit of work but i am sure it can be done
I was thinking about machining one as well. The problem I see is the aluminum would not break which might mean the next weakest component would fail. This may create a worse problem.

I would like to think a mechanical screw driven pair of rams below the wing or a single piston pump may work better and be less problematic.
Old 11-08-2012, 12:25 PM
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Bump, love aftermarket solutions to expensive oem fixes! Presumably you could rapid prototype these things with some sort of ABS.
Old 11-08-2012, 12:57 PM
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Nick the next weak link should be the fuse at some point the motor is going to see a load . Most likly yours broke because it ran to the end of its travel and bottomed out
Old 11-11-2012, 11:59 PM
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Mine started with a warning light, driver side ram had a little fuild leaking and now nothing works, would love some help with it.
Old 11-12-2012, 09:34 AM
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"02996ttx50
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there's a widely circulated DIY step by step to re-bleed them.. and it works.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:47 AM
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z06801
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Anyone have that at their finger tips? been looking for one.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:57 AM
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Most likely most of the pump failures are from leaks and air in the system and letting the pump run to the end of its travel
Old 11-12-2012, 06:42 PM
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"02996ttx50
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Originally Posted by z06801
Anyone have that at their finger tips? been looking for one.
i couldn't DIY it but i stood over my buddy and watched in awe as my spoiler was resurrected from the dead using this method.

( and a cpl beers in absentia for the guy that figured this out and was kind enough to put it up! )

GL.

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
Old 11-13-2012, 12:35 AM
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thanks
Old 11-13-2012, 11:00 AM
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Tytus
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Mine is in the first stage of failure...System failure light and but the spoiler goes up automatically but won't go down until I push the dash button. Are there 2 pumps (one on each side) or just 1? What is the fluid that is used to replace the original? Where can you get it besides at the dealer?

Thanks in advance.

Tytus



Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
i couldn't DIY it but i stood over my buddy and watched in awe as my spoiler was resurrected from the dead using this method.

( and a cpl beers in absentia for the guy that figured this out and was kind enough to put it up! )

GL.

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light


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