Gearbox bearing issue, loud whine now gone. INFO.
#16
Burning Brakes
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I think I also have this. Will report back. Gearbox being removed as we speak.
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#17
#18
Nordschleife Master
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With respect to oils, I try not to get into the great gear oil debate. We make parts for racing. Our bias is what works best for racing. I'll make the example of the Redline oil that was just mentioned. Redline is well known for making notchy cold start 1-2 shifting better. However, in my experience, in cars with brass synchros that are taken to the track, it overheats and by the end of the day you are getting notchy shifting on 3rd and 4th because of it. Don't usually hear the same complaints from the GT3 guys who got steel synchros in their gearboxes. And I know of a number of professional teams who swear by Redline in their sequential gearboxes. The underlying point there is that not one size fits all and so I don't recommend any one oil.
The guidelines I suggest, in addition to the service interval I already suggested is GL5. If you have an LSD and track the car, I am against LSD additives. LSD additives are NVH items. They make everything in the gearbox more slippery. They make the LSD less effective on track, and as pointed out above with the Redline example, can make the synchros too slippery too. Delvac is what a lot of the race guys like. It's the same as Porsche's older factory fill Mobil except it has no LSD additives. These days Porsche's factory fill is a Shell oil on most cars. It's a good oil. Motul is good oil. When Paul Guard owned the company he used to recommend Lubrication Engineers. I've currently got Swepco in 3 of my cars and Valvoline in the 4th one.
#19
Nordschleife Master
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Thanks very much for taking the time to post this advice. I really appreciate it.
Oh... you may appreciate this story... that RSR in my signature was running a 2.7 L RSR engine making 292 HP on the engine dyno. I was still using the 901 gearbox, and being very careful. I added a sportomatic pump on the end of the camshaft, and pumped the trans fluid through a cooler and then sprayed the cooled oil on the ring gear. Worked very well.
Oh... you may appreciate this story... that RSR in my signature was running a 2.7 L RSR engine making 292 HP on the engine dyno. I was still using the 901 gearbox, and being very careful. I added a sportomatic pump on the end of the camshaft, and pumped the trans fluid through a cooler and then sprayed the cooled oil on the ring gear. Worked very well.
#21
Nordschleife Master
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Sorry for the slow response. I don't have a tendency to subscribe to threads and don't always remember to come back in a timely fashion. The answer is yes on both counts. Similar gearbox design and I recommend the same oil service interval on all the G50&G96 variants.
With respect to oils, I try not to get into the great gear oil debate. We make parts for racing. Our bias is what works best for racing. I'll make the example of the Redline oil that was just mentioned. Redline is well known for making notchy cold start 1-2 shifting better. However, in my experience, in cars with brass synchros that are taken to the track, it overheats and by the end of the day you are getting notchy shifting on 3rd and 4th because of it. Don't usually hear the same complaints from the GT3 guys who got steel synchros in their gearboxes. And I know of a number of professional teams who swear by Redline in their sequential gearboxes. The underlying point there is that not one size fits all and so I don't recommend any one oil.
The guidelines I suggest, in addition to the service interval I already suggested is GL5. If you have an LSD and track the car, I am against LSD additives. LSD additives are NVH items. They make everything in the gearbox more slippery. They make the LSD less effective on track, and as pointed out above with the Redline example, can make the synchros too slippery too. Delvac is what a lot of the race guys like. It's the same as Porsche's older factory fill Mobil except it has no LSD additives. These days Porsche's factory fill is a Shell oil on most cars. It's a good oil. Motul is good oil. When Paul Guard owned the company he used to recommend Lubrication Engineers. I've currently got Swepco in 3 of my cars and Valvoline in the 4th one.
With respect to oils, I try not to get into the great gear oil debate. We make parts for racing. Our bias is what works best for racing. I'll make the example of the Redline oil that was just mentioned. Redline is well known for making notchy cold start 1-2 shifting better. However, in my experience, in cars with brass synchros that are taken to the track, it overheats and by the end of the day you are getting notchy shifting on 3rd and 4th because of it. Don't usually hear the same complaints from the GT3 guys who got steel synchros in their gearboxes. And I know of a number of professional teams who swear by Redline in their sequential gearboxes. The underlying point there is that not one size fits all and so I don't recommend any one oil.
The guidelines I suggest, in addition to the service interval I already suggested is GL5. If you have an LSD and track the car, I am against LSD additives. LSD additives are NVH items. They make everything in the gearbox more slippery. They make the LSD less effective on track, and as pointed out above with the Redline example, can make the synchros too slippery too. Delvac is what a lot of the race guys like. It's the same as Porsche's older factory fill Mobil except it has no LSD additives. These days Porsche's factory fill is a Shell oil on most cars. It's a good oil. Motul is good oil. When Paul Guard owned the company he used to recommend Lubrication Engineers. I've currently got Swepco in 3 of my cars and Valvoline in the 4th one.
Thanks.
#22
Nordschleife Master
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One thing that I think will help more people avoid or prolong this issue and the need to rebuild their gearbox is to pitch Porsche's gear oil service intervals in the bin. 55K is just way too long to run gear oil on a high performance vehicle that is driven even half as hard as Porsche intended. For gently driven street cars I tell people to change their oil every 30k mi. If you drive it hard, change it every 15k, and if you track it, count every weekend at the track as 2500 mi. towards that 15k number. half a dozen track days and you better be changing your gear oil regardless of mileage in between.
#23
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GTgears- thanks for the info. I just dropped off my '05 S at the shop yesterday and am having the gearbox and diff oil changed even though it only has 21000 miles, but is 7 years old.