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Problem With My 2002 tt

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Old 07-07-2011, 05:39 PM
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raineycd
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Great to hear!!! Be sure to lock the doors with the key fob to minimize battery drain as well.
Old 07-07-2011, 05:40 PM
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Glad it was easy. I like the driving it more option. I'm surprised the alternator wouldn't charge the battery. That seems odd, but who knows with these wacky Germans and their engineering.
Old 07-07-2011, 06:08 PM
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ca993twin
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Originally Posted by SSST
Glad it was easy. I like the driving it more option. I'm surprised the alternator wouldn't charge the battery. That seems odd, but who knows with these wacky Germans and their engineering.
Sometimes the battery is so dead (shorted), that the alternator can't recharge it. After a while of trying, the alternator can also die from overwork.
Old 07-07-2011, 06:08 PM
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Whoa, zero voltage output from the alternator, and they said the battery was dead? I am not so sure! The alternator even when under full charge should give you enough to run the car! You said all systems went to zero when running! Shorted cell would tak the alternator down and cause havoc.
Wonder if you have a cell that has internally broken and is intermittent.
Old 07-07-2011, 06:42 PM
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I celebrated too soon. Porsche just called me back and said its the altenator too! They said the battery goes to 12.9 v but it should be 14 v. Now they suggest I replace the altenator. Battery was last replaced in 2010 March. Charge for alternator installed $1,400. Is there anything else they should be looking at while it there? Thanks again..
Old 07-07-2011, 09:34 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by bogotajoe
I celebrated too soon. Porsche just called me back and said its the altenator too! They said the battery goes to 12.9 v but it should be 14 v. Now they suggest I replace the altenator. Battery was last replaced in 2010 March. Charge for alternator installed $1,400. Is there anything else they should be looking at while it there? Thanks again..
Always a good tech when he's working on a car or an engine will keep a sharp eye out for anything that looks like a problem.

He will check hoses and fittings in the area to ensure they're solid and not dry and cracked and close to breaking or leaking. Also, he'll look at seals and gasket seams for any signs of leaks.

He will verify all hose and wiring hangers and such are in place and secure.

In short I don't think there's really anything you need to have done while the alternator is being replaced -- unless you know of an existing problem in that area -- but you should bring it up to the tech in casual way and ask the tech while he's there would he mind giving everything a professional/experienced inspection or check and appraise you of what he finds of anything that could need attention.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 07-07-2011, 09:36 PM
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raineycd
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Originally Posted by bogotajoe
I celebrated too soon. Porsche just called me back and said its the altenator too! They said the battery goes to 12.9 v but it should be 14 v. Now they suggest I replace the altenator. Battery was last replaced in 2010 March. Charge for alternator installed $1,400. Is there anything else they should be looking at while it there? Thanks again..
Is he taking you to dinner to?
Old 07-07-2011, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ca993twin
Sometimes the battery is so dead (shorted), that the alternator can't recharge it. After a while of trying, the alternator can also die from overwork.
Shorted batteries happen a lot down here in Tejas. When that happens though, you can't jump it either. A short is a short.

That's what had me confused. It sounds like the alt is bad though.

Still a relatively cheap and easily fixed problem.
Old 07-07-2011, 10:25 PM
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If you want to change the belt, air filter, and paint your Y pipe, it would be a good chance!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/11298777@N08/5274498049/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11298777@N08/5274498049/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11298777@N08/, on Flickr
Old 07-08-2011, 05:37 AM
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bogotajoe
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Thanks for the advice. I guess my concern now is why would an alternator go with only 17K miles on the car. Is this an indication of something else wrong in the system or is it just because its a 10 year old alternator?
Old 07-08-2011, 10:30 AM
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It is a common problem, so I wouldn't sweat it... Mine went at 40k... On other cars I have owned, I have only replaced one alternator and that was after the car was in an accident. lol
Old 07-08-2011, 10:47 AM
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SSSt -I agree if the battery is fully shorted you can't jump start. I have seen where the plates start braeking but only short when the engine is running the car is moving. eventually they fully break apart and cause a full short.

bogotajoe - Is it really the alternator or voltage regulator. The regulator is mounted on the backside of the alternator, and you may want to ask them if the regulator can be replaced vs the whole enchlida! I would be really surprised if the windings or slip rings are bad on your alternator based on low mileage.
I was a little taken back based on your symptoms you described that the dealer said battery as I mentioned in my previous post. I am sure it now is down to the actual problem. I would suspect one of the bridge diodes open up as it gets hot, since a low battery requires more draw,.
Old 07-08-2011, 12:11 PM
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I will ask him. He said it was the altenator and then said for that car it is actually a generator. I will ask about the voltage regulator. He did say otherwise the car is fine and the tech took it for a test drive and had no issues. Its my first turbo so sometimes I not sure how it supposed to feel vs a non-turbo...
Old 07-08-2011, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bogotajoe
Thanks for the advice. I guess my concern now is why would an alternator go with only 17K miles on the car. Is this an indication of something else wrong in the system or is it just because its a 10 year old alternator?
A shorted battery can kill your alternator.

Originally Posted by bogotajoe
Its my first turbo so sometimes I not sure how it supposed to feel vs a non-turbo..
Faster.
Old 07-08-2011, 02:01 PM
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Yes, it is faster. I am going to have the battery replaced and they are going to check the voltage regulator. Any thoughts on using an aftermarket or rebuilt altenator or should I stay with a Porsche product?


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