cartagenam

I have a 2002 911 turbo. I am doing the following maintenance myself and I was hoping to understand what to be aware of when replacing these parts. I am not a machanic but have worked on cars. Please help. Thanks.

Drive Belt-

Fuel Filter-

Break Fluid-

Pollen Filter-

PorscheDoc

All pretty straight foward swaps.

Macster

Generally maintenance is also a time to inspect the area being maintained looking for signs of impending trouble.

For instance, when you replace the drive belt you need to inspect it for signs the edges are rubbing against an accessory drive pulley. If so this can be a sign an accessory drive has too much axial/radial play in its shaft/bearings.

Even if the belt shows no signs of trouble, give each accessory drive pulley a good checkout looking (feeling) for any play. You have several accessory drives to check and you look for one that has more (any?) play compared to the others. Look as best you can at the bearing/housing interface looking for any seal dust, signs of seal leakage (grease seepage).

For the water pump check for any signs of excessive fluid leakage. My info is Porsche allows for a bit of fluid leakage at the pump, but it is very little. There can be a trace of whitish residue which is what is left after coolant leaks out and the water evaporates.

Check the idler roller and tensioner bearings for signs of excessive play, roughness, or signs the bearing seals are leaking. Again you have several to check and the assumption is not all will be bad so you're looking for the one that stands out by feeling different.

Be sure you route the belt properly, of course.

For the fuel filter service always exercise extreme caution cause any fuel spillage is an opportunity for a fuel fire which can consume a car, a garage, and possibly a house if the garage is attached.

Check the fuel lines, hoses, connections for any signs of fuel leakage or aging and replace as required.

Of course give the fuel system a visual inspection afterwards to make sure the fuel lines/fittings are fuel tight.

A brake fluid service should have you siphon some old brake fluid from the reservior to reduce the amount of new fluid needed to flush the old fluid out of the reservior/lines and calipers.

If you use a power bleeder, do not over pressurize the braking system.

If you use the manual method, be sure you do not depress the brake pedal all the way to the floor. Unlike the clutch slave cylinder piston the brake piston does not travel all the way to the end of its travel. By doing so when you bleed the brakes you risk damaging the brake piston/seal/cylinder.

After a brake job be on your toes and give the car a test drive to make sure the brakes work ok and upon return to home base give all the lines/fittings and brake bleeder valves a check for any fluid leaks.

Pollen filter is pretty straightforward, but it can be a bit difficult to install with no air leaks that allow outside air to bypass the filter.

What I do is smear a bit of Gummi-pflege on the air filter's rubber seal gasket to make its insertion a bit less likely to deform the seal and introduce a leak.

If you do not have Gummi-pflege you can use a bit of vegetable oil. This will not attack the rubber seal material.

Also, when removing the cabin filter or the engine filter, be aware the filter can have some trash on it and you want to be careful you do not dump this trash off the filter into the air box. Have handy a shop vac and use it to remove as much trash as you can and if you have to snake the nozzle into the air box and vacuum out any trash that got into the airbox.

Check the insides of the air boxes for any dirt/dust that might be a sign there's a box leak or the seal was not properly installed the last time.

In general every time you perform any work/maintenance on a vehicle use this opportunity to give the car a good visual inspection. Not only in the area in which you are working, say the brakes, but around the axles, drive train, and underbody panels. Look for damaged/loose panels, fluid leaks, anything out of the ordinary.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Bryce

The drive belt: Tough to torque that bolt that loosens the pulley assembly so that you can get the new belt on. The old belt is stretched enough that it's easy to get off. You might want to heat the new belt up with a hair dryer or in the oven to stretch it a bit.

The fuel filter: I couldn't torque the bolt enough to loosen it. Had to pay a pro. If you have the zig-zag widget to reach way back there, you might have better luck.

bella1

My guy, Lutzo, says the drivebelt is not fun.

cartagenam

Hello,

It is a tight space to get to the fuel filter. How can I remove the fuel filter?

To get to the drive belt, do I have to remove the air filter? What is the best way to handle this?

Thanks!!

Macster

Never touched either item.

But the factory manual says this about the belt.

Removal:

1) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2) Loosen the servo pump wheel [pulley].
3) Relieve [pressure/tension?] of the drive belt.
4) Remove the servo pump wheel [pulley].
5) Remove the drive belt.

Installation:

Install with correct surface contacting the pulleys.

1) Fit the drive belt.
2) Reposition the servo pump wheel [pulley].
3) Tension the drive belt.
4) Tighten the fastening screws on the servo pump.
5) Install the air cleaner assembly.

Replacing the fuel filter:

1) Disconnect the plug on the hot film air mass flow meter. Push the plug downwards and press on grooved surface at the sides. Pull the plug up and off at the same time.

2) Pull off the connecting hose between the left turbo and the intake pipe. To do this unclip the retaining clip using a screwdriver and pull out the hose. Refit the retaining clips immediately.

3) Unscrew the fastening screw M6x34 at the rear of the air cleaner housing.

4) Undo hose clamp. Undo the hose clamp between the air cleaner housign and the intake pipe.

5) Tilt the air cleaner housing outwards. To do this tilt the housing upwards on the right by 90 degs. and then turn the housing to the left by approx. 90 degs.

6) Unclip the hot film mass air flow meter cable. Open the omega clip on the left side of the air cleaner housing and take out the cable. Take the air cleaner housing out of the engine compartment.

7) Pull off the ground cable from the fuel filter.

8) Undo the fuel pressure line. Make sure to counter with a wrench when doing this. Collect emerging fuel.

9) Disconnect the plug connection and collect the residual fuel. Protect open lines against dirt.

10) Remove the fuel filter with holder. To do this bend the retaining clip upward adn simultaneously remove the filter with the holder.

11) Remove the fuel filter. To do this fully open the restraining strap and take the fuel filter out.

12) Push the new fuel filter into the restraining strap and tighten again. Position the filter in such a way that the mark on the filter is aligned with the outer edge of the holder in installation position.

13) Position the fuel filter with the holder on the coolant expansion tank again and press it down at the rear. The holder must engage audibly.

14) Connect plug connector of the fuel supply line. The connector must engage audibly. Pull slighty to ensure the connnection is properly locked.

15) Tighten fuel pressure line. Make sure to counter with a wrench when doing this.

16) Connect the ground cable to the filter.

17) Clip the hot film mas air flow sensor cable. To do this insert the cable into the omega clip on the left air cleaner housing side and then close the clip.

18) Place the air cleaner housing in the engine compartment as shown and move into installation position. To do this first turn the housing to the right approx. 90 degs. adn push the rubber hose over the flange. Then swivel downwards by 90 degs.

19) Tighten the fastening screw M6 x 34 to 10 Nm (7.5 ftlbs.).

20 Tighten the hose clamp on the connecting hose. Reconnect the plug on the hot air film mass air flow sensor. The connector must engage audibly.

21) Attach the connecting hose between the left turbo and the intake distributor. The hose must engage audibly.

Damn!

Sincerely,

Macster.