MK19

I've done this job on Rears, but not fronts.
Can I get the boots? (mine are ripped).
Do I need a special tool to push the axels out of the wheel carriers? Or can I do it with a uneversal puller?
Prefered CV Joint Lube?
Any special Tricks?

Thanks in advance.
MK

Macster

The front drive shaft has to be removed as near as I can tell. (I have the removing and installing the frotn drive shaft section of a Turbo factory manual open for reference.)

Tools is a Torx screwdriver with its driver end bent at 90 degs. A ball joint extractor (commerically available), and a press out ball joint extractor tool.

Undo [loosen] the drive shaft at the wheel side *before* raising the vehicle.
You might need someone to apply the brakes while you do this.

Remove the diagonal brace (2 M12 screws).

1) Remove the front wheel and underside panel.
2) Undo the pan-head screws of the drive shaft on the transmission flange.

Not in the reference but my training is always when undoing drive shaft flanges, and such, to if they are not marked to mark the orientation so the flange and mating part are reassembled in the same way. Vague and hard to eliminate vibrations can arise if this is not done.

Note The CV joint can come apart if the dust bellows holder is removed or damaged. The joint must therefore be secured against falling apart during removal, installation, and transport with 8mm screws + nuts (2 ea)!

When loosening the fastening nuts counter with special Torx screwdriver (tool number 9546).

3) Disenage air guide on control arm.
4) Loosen stabilizer mount at stabilizer (counter with open-ended wrench).
5) Undo track rod and control arm on wheel carrier.
6) Press ball joint off of control arm with press-out tool (9560) and ball joint off of track rod using a commerically available track rod extractor.

Note to prevent damage to the rubber sleeves of the ball joints coat the rubber sleeves and the extractors in this area with tire mounting paste!

Since the driveshaft can be moved in the wheel hub toothing only with great use of force undoe the drive shaft using a copper mandrel (driving mandrel)! For unfavorable tolerances the drive shaft must be pressed out of the wheel hub toothing using a suitable wheel hub extractor!

7) Push the protective tube (shop made) onto the drive shaft (profile shaft).
8) Swivel (pull) the spring strut outwards without using excess force and extend teh drive shaft.

9) Do not damage the boots of the ball joints. Push a transport protective cap onto the joint if necessary.

Installation requires a thorough inspection of all parts.

Replace fastening nuts!

Use correct tightening torque!

Grease the toothing [spline I think this refers to] of the drive shaft with Optimoly HT! Additionally, only the front axle, grease the thread with Optimoly HT!

Taper of ball joints and wheel carrier must be free of grease!

When tightening the fastening nuts counter with Torx screwdriver 9546!

There's more. PM me with your email address and I'll send you a PDF of the entire section and you can decide if it is any value or not.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Viperbob1

Damn I usually remove the tranny bolts, pop off the axle nut, and generally drop the strut out of the carrier so it can move free. Then reverse.

Macster

For the front CV boots?

PorscheDoc

On the fronts, I disconnect the tie rod, disconnect the ball joint for the control arm, hold the arm down with a prybar (after removing the CV bolts and the large outer axle nut), and just swing the carrier out enough to clear the stub axle. Once it clears, you can pull the axle out. Well that is my procedure for wheel bearings. I have never actually had to replace the boots on the fronts yet.

I assume you can remove the inner joint like the rears. Probably need to pop the cap off, and remove a circlip, then slide the joint off. You will replace both boots from the inside, as the outer joint is not removable.

The cheating way is to get the cool air powered boot expander which stretches the boot and you pull it right over the joint without removal. The downside is the tool is not cheap, lol.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4...ain/ES1899405/

MK19

Thanks guys.
Much appreciated.
I'll let yiou know how it goes, and will start of course by trying to remove the axels without dropping any of the steering gear or the wheel carrier.
BTW- the DYI on wheel bearing removal was helpful too.

ALSO: Anybody know where I can get the Optimolly Greese? (Senset / dealer wants $28 for 100cc tube.......probably need 4 tubes).

MK19

Wow - these boots are pricey. About $43 each + Clamps at a few bucks each. No kit avaialble.

MK19

This front axel boot replacement job went fine......followed McCasters / Manual instructions and other input herein above.
Key points:
- Yes, undoing the 350 ft-lb Axel Nuts is a battle and just about at the limit of 1/2" drive socket and Breaker bar. If you had 3/4" drive gear (32MM socket) or an impact wrench........you'd be much better off. I got there with a pipe extension on my 1/2' breaker bar, but the bar was bent like a fishing rod I and I was afraid it would break. Putting the cleaned and lubed nuts back on is easy by comparison.
- Yes, you need to partially disconnect the wheel carrier and swing it out on the strut to get the axels out......no other way.
- No need to remove any brake parts or lines at all. They all just swing out with the wheel carrier/strut.
- I got away without the Torx special tool.
- I got the Steering tie rod and lower (a arm) ball joint tapers out with my copper drift and a hammer......no special tools. A few goog wack's on the lug adjacent to the tapered joint helps (after the nut is off of course).
- The axels came out of the wheel hubs nearly freely.
- CV's took 4 oz (100cc's) of greese per axel (not per joint).
- You will definately need a universal puller to get the inner race of the inboard CV joint off of the axel so that you can remove/repklace the boots.
- I did not dissamble the outboard CV joint to clean it. Just lots of solvent, brush, and heavy flush with spray breake parts cleaner. I think I got it clean enough.
- One of the biggest hassels was getting the new metal boot straps stretched around the boots. The factory must have a special tool. That tool or similar is worth getting I think. But I got there.
All done.
- BTW, these joints had nearly 100k miles on them and were in really nice condition with minimal wear or free play. Good because the boots, straps and greese were about $200 alone.
MK19

PorscheDoc

From my supplier I show the front inner kit (1 boot, grease, and clamps) as part number 996.349.293.00 and the front outer kit (1 boot grease clamps) as part number 996.349.291.00.

You are definitely correct about the 1/2" breaker bar. I have seen more than a few break when trying to undo axle nuts. A 3/4" drive is much much better and you can put a heck of a long pipe on it without breaking anything. Have someone push the brake pedal inside, and spin it off. An impact will also just buzz the nut off.

Great job!

MK19

Thanks Doc.
MK19