Oil Change DIY (pics)
#76
Three Wheelin'
Drain the tank with the engine at room temp and the gush and subsequent splash is reduced by 80%. You just need to wait a little longer for it to drain, Not so much on the tank but I would wait at least 30 min on the crankcase
#77
Rennlist Member
Ok, I got up to the shop last night and pulled the sump plate (after draining the oil of course!!!). I really was hoping to find the swirl pot(s) clogged up with pad material, but was disappointed - both of them were clean. The oil and magnet were also clean (only 1000 mi. on fresh DT40) but I did find 2 little chunks of aluminum (non-ferrous/non-magnetic) in the pan. My blood pressure rose slightly for a few seconds until I did the magnet test... I'm thinking maybe I loosened up a piece that had been inside the block while I was turning the engine over on the stand while working on it (I don't know how many times I turned it over but it was quite a few). I can't think of where else this chunk may have come from...I also wonder if it could have had anything to do with my green cam cover plug popping out? Are the cam end plugs aluminum (the ones that seal the cam shaft)? It doesn't seem nearly large enough to constitute the entire plug...Would the rest of it still be up under the cam cover? I won't be able to get back to the car until next week, but in the meantime, I re-sealed the sump plate and ordered a few more of the green cam cover caps. I think before I re-fill it with oil, I'll pop off the green end cap and check for the cam end plug. If that thing is floating around in there, I don't want to start the engine 'til I get it out! If the cam end plug turns out to be where it should be, I'm thinking it could just be a case of excess cam cover sealant clogging the oil return...I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I get to it...
#78
Ok, I got up to the shop last night and pulled the sump plate (after draining the oil of course!!!). I really was hoping to find the swirl pot(s) clogged up with pad material, but was disappointed - both of them were clean. The oil and magnet were also clean (only 1000 mi. on fresh DT40) but I did find 2 little chunks of aluminum (non-ferrous/non-magnetic) in the pan. My blood pressure rose slightly for a few seconds until I did the magnet test... I'm thinking maybe I loosened up a piece that had been inside the block while I was turning the engine over on the stand while working on it (I don't know how many times I turned it over but it was quite a few). I can't think of where else this chunk may have come from...I also wonder if it could have had anything to do with my green cam cover plug popping out? Are the cam end plugs aluminum (the ones that seal the cam shaft)? It doesn't seem nearly large enough to constitute the entire plug...Would the rest of it still be up under the cam cover? I won't be able to get back to the car until next week, but in the meantime, I re-sealed the sump plate and ordered a few more of the green cam cover caps. I think before I re-fill it with oil, I'll pop off the green end cap and check for the cam end plug. If that thing is floating around in there, I don't want to start the engine 'til I get it out! If the cam end plug turns out to be where it should be, I'm thinking it could just be a case of excess cam cover sealant clogging the oil return...I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I get to it...
#82
If I may add the torques for all who live in the metric world:
Crank case (sump) - 70 Nm (15mm socket)
Oil tank - 60 Nm (19mm socket and 27mm wrench)
turbos - 30Nm (8mm hex / Inbus)
Oil cap - 25 Nm
just did the job last week. Like alway, using 10W60 Castrol (I don’t start up the car while it’s freezing).
Crank case (sump) - 70 Nm (15mm socket)
Oil tank - 60 Nm (19mm socket and 27mm wrench)
turbos - 30Nm (8mm hex / Inbus)
Oil cap - 25 Nm
just did the job last week. Like alway, using 10W60 Castrol (I don’t start up the car while it’s freezing).
#83
If I may add the torques for all who live in the metric world:
Crank case (sump) - 70 Nm (15mm socket)
Oil tank - 60 Nm (19mm socket and 27mm wrench)
turbos - 30Nm (8mm hex / Inbus)
Oil cap - 25 Nm
just did the job last week. Like alway, using 10W60 Castrol (I don’t start up the car while it’s freezing).
Crank case (sump) - 70 Nm (15mm socket)
Oil tank - 60 Nm (19mm socket and 27mm wrench)
turbos - 30Nm (8mm hex / Inbus)
Oil cap - 25 Nm
just did the job last week. Like alway, using 10W60 Castrol (I don’t start up the car while it’s freezing).
thanks
#84
Advanced
Thanks to your picture of where the o-ring actually seats, I was able to remedy the cause of my oil leak and all is good in my world once again :P
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911user (04-21-2021)