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Oil Change DIY (pics)

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Old 09-05-2017, 12:46 AM
  #76  
Third-Reef
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Drain the tank with the engine at room temp and the gush and subsequent splash is reduced by 80%. You just need to wait a little longer for it to drain, Not so much on the tank but I would wait at least 30 min on the crankcase
Old 09-08-2017, 01:08 PM
  #77  
dporto
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Ok, I got up to the shop last night and pulled the sump plate (after draining the oil of course!!!). I really was hoping to find the swirl pot(s) clogged up with pad material, but was disappointed - both of them were clean. The oil and magnet were also clean (only 1000 mi. on fresh DT40) but I did find 2 little chunks of aluminum (non-ferrous/non-magnetic) in the pan. My blood pressure rose slightly for a few seconds until I did the magnet test... I'm thinking maybe I loosened up a piece that had been inside the block while I was turning the engine over on the stand while working on it (I don't know how many times I turned it over but it was quite a few). I can't think of where else this chunk may have come from...I also wonder if it could have had anything to do with my green cam cover plug popping out? Are the cam end plugs aluminum (the ones that seal the cam shaft)? It doesn't seem nearly large enough to constitute the entire plug...Would the rest of it still be up under the cam cover? I won't be able to get back to the car until next week, but in the meantime, I re-sealed the sump plate and ordered a few more of the green cam cover caps. I think before I re-fill it with oil, I'll pop off the green end cap and check for the cam end plug. If that thing is floating around in there, I don't want to start the engine 'til I get it out! If the cam end plug turns out to be where it should be, I'm thinking it could just be a case of excess cam cover sealant clogging the oil return...I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I get to it...
Old 09-09-2017, 05:07 PM
  #78  
32krazy!
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Originally Posted by dporto
Ok, I got up to the shop last night and pulled the sump plate (after draining the oil of course!!!). I really was hoping to find the swirl pot(s) clogged up with pad material, but was disappointed - both of them were clean. The oil and magnet were also clean (only 1000 mi. on fresh DT40) but I did find 2 little chunks of aluminum (non-ferrous/non-magnetic) in the pan. My blood pressure rose slightly for a few seconds until I did the magnet test... I'm thinking maybe I loosened up a piece that had been inside the block while I was turning the engine over on the stand while working on it (I don't know how many times I turned it over but it was quite a few). I can't think of where else this chunk may have come from...I also wonder if it could have had anything to do with my green cam cover plug popping out? Are the cam end plugs aluminum (the ones that seal the cam shaft)? It doesn't seem nearly large enough to constitute the entire plug...Would the rest of it still be up under the cam cover? I won't be able to get back to the car until next week, but in the meantime, I re-sealed the sump plate and ordered a few more of the green cam cover caps. I think before I re-fill it with oil, I'll pop off the green end cap and check for the cam end plug. If that thing is floating around in there, I don't want to start the engine 'til I get it out! If the cam end plug turns out to be where it should be, I'm thinking it could just be a case of excess cam cover sealant clogging the oil return...I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I get to it...
the end of the cams arent a plug. the rubber cap is to seal the valve cover at the cams.
Old 04-08-2020, 11:29 AM
  #79  
Cowhorn
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Any pics of fuse C4 location?
Old 04-08-2020, 12:01 PM
  #80  
T Kono
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C4 = 3rd row, 4th fuse
Old 04-08-2020, 02:23 PM
  #81  
deadendd9009
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Originally Posted by Cowhorn
Any pics of fuse C4 location?
Fill the oil from the oil filter housing and you won't need this.
Old 04-13-2020, 10:07 AM
  #82  
rainer
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If I may add the torques for all who live in the metric world:

Crank case (sump) - 70 Nm (15mm socket)
Oil tank - 60 Nm (19mm socket and 27mm wrench)
turbos - 30Nm (8mm hex / Inbus)
Oil cap - 25 Nm

just did the job last week. Like alway, using 10W60 Castrol (I don’t start up the car while it’s freezing).
Old 04-13-2020, 10:22 AM
  #83  
avijay
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Originally Posted by rainer
If I may add the torques for all who live in the metric world:

Crank case (sump) - 70 Nm (15mm socket)
Oil tank - 60 Nm (19mm socket and 27mm wrench)
turbos - 30Nm (8mm hex / Inbus)
Oil cap - 25 Nm

just did the job last week. Like alway, using 10W60 Castrol (I don’t start up the car while it’s freezing).
extremely helpful!
thanks
Old 04-13-2021, 11:06 PM
  #84  
jegermiester
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Originally Posted by Shadetree930
The large oil filter o-ring goes in the last groove. Ask me how I know.
Don't over-torque the oil filter cap. Ask me how I know that too!

Just took the Turbo out of hibernation after doing an oil change last fall. After running her up to operating temp. to check the oil level, I was surprised to see a few puddles of oil under the car!! Found out that I too had installed the large o-ring at the very top of the oil filter lid.....so don't feel bad, as I can say that I also "been there. done that"!!
Thanks to your picture of where the o-ring actually seats, I was able to remedy the cause of my oil leak and all is good in my world once again :P
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