2002 996 TT Battery question PLEASE READ ELEC GURUS !!!
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2002 996 TT Battery question PLEASE READ ELEC GURUS !!!
My car has not started a couple times this week after sitting for 4 -12 hours...check parked battery drain seemed to be 250-500 mA ? while interior inst cluster still lit... and like 4 amps with doors open...anyway really strange as it came just after I installed the IPOD Cable that replaces my CD changer but hte only pwr wire I touched was the orange and that shuts of with ignition....
SO if my battery is actually on its way out does anyone have any recommendations as to whats the BEST battery for these cars?
>>>>>>or some some more trouble shooting techniques lol
Car 2002 996 RUF R TURBO
SO if my battery is actually on its way out does anyone have any recommendations as to whats the BEST battery for these cars?
>>>>>>or some some more trouble shooting techniques lol
Car 2002 996 RUF R TURBO
Last edited by Kerrage; 09-24-2010 at 01:12 PM.
#2
Three Wheelin'
Get your local NAPA, Autozone, etc to test the battery. They can test load capacity. As far as what to replace it with...I have no idea. I have come across many recommendations from light weight to normal batteries.
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Ok so today yesteday I got in the car and it started....but the gas guage read empty....apperently Porsches only read down to the last .25 tank and then calculate from there...so if your battery dies while under quarter tank...it just shows empty once re started......Kicker is the darn car started and showed no gas indicating at some point the batter lost power????
Really annoying as over the past week I have come acros 3-4 occasions of not starting. T
Today I put an ampmeter in series with the battery and I read 130mA with car unlocked/unarmed/and reasted for at least 5 min
and 140-150mA locked/armed/ rested..
To me 130 mA is not too bad?? is that normal? I redid my battery connections and they looked ok maybe slightly loose and I used a battery conditioner to bring the battery to "100%" so I will cross my fingers and see if maybe that was all was connections...but I am in disbelief..
Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?
Thanks!!
Really annoying as over the past week I have come acros 3-4 occasions of not starting. T
Today I put an ampmeter in series with the battery and I read 130mA with car unlocked/unarmed/and reasted for at least 5 min
and 140-150mA locked/armed/ rested..
To me 130 mA is not too bad?? is that normal? I redid my battery connections and they looked ok maybe slightly loose and I used a battery conditioner to bring the battery to "100%" so I will cross my fingers and see if maybe that was all was connections...but I am in disbelief..
Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?
Thanks!!
#5
I was always taught 50 mA for a parked draw. In theory, 150mA draw will kill a 70 amp/hr battery in about 20 days, 50mA-almost 60 days.
It takes more than a few minutes for the Turbo to go into 'sleep mode' (45-60+ minutes). You may be measuring the draw w/ the LED's lit and some base voltage going to the DME.
Any ambient light will washout the LED's unless you look right at them.
The only way to really test the battery is with a load tester which is essentially a 'toaster' that momentarily shorts out the terminals producing max draw and reads it's recovery.
BD
It takes more than a few minutes for the Turbo to go into 'sleep mode' (45-60+ minutes). You may be measuring the draw w/ the LED's lit and some base voltage going to the DME.
Any ambient light will washout the LED's unless you look right at them.
The only way to really test the battery is with a load tester which is essentially a 'toaster' that momentarily shorts out the terminals producing max draw and reads it's recovery.
BD
#7
Race Director
Ok so today yesteday I got in the car and it started....but the gas guage read empty....apperently Porsches only read down to the last .25 tank and then calculate from there...so if your battery dies while under quarter tank...it just shows empty once re started......Kicker is the darn car started and showed no gas indicating at some point the batter lost power????
Really annoying as over the past week I have come acros 3-4 occasions of not starting. T
Today I put an ampmeter in series with the battery and I read 130mA with car unlocked/unarmed/and reasted for at least 5 min
and 140-150mA locked/armed/ rested..
To me 130 mA is not too bad?? is that normal? I redid my battery connections and they looked ok maybe slightly loose and I used a battery conditioner to bring the battery to "100%" so I will cross my fingers and see if maybe that was all was connections...but I am in disbelief..
Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?
Thanks!!
Really annoying as over the past week I have come acros 3-4 occasions of not starting. T
Today I put an ampmeter in series with the battery and I read 130mA with car unlocked/unarmed/and reasted for at least 5 min
and 140-150mA locked/armed/ rested..
To me 130 mA is not too bad?? is that normal? I redid my battery connections and they looked ok maybe slightly loose and I used a battery conditioner to bring the battery to "100%" so I will cross my fingers and see if maybe that was all was connections...but I am in disbelief..
Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?
Thanks!!
Loose electrical connections can really lower the efficiency of electrical conduction. If the connections were loose that can account for the poor starting.
However, the battery's health can be poor as well.
Lastly, if the connections were loose they are probably corroded so you want to clean them - -abrade them to remove any surface corrosion -- then refit the connections.
Be sure you check both the positive and negative terminal connections at the battery but where the positive and negative cables go.
Since the car is used you do not know who or what has been at the battery connections and they should be suspect until you eliminate them as such.
After a few days the electrical load drops as the car's security system sheds features to help preserve power so a 130mA initially after turning off engine and locking the car is maybe to be expected.
Also, if you have the front trunk cover open, the engine compartment open, these can have lights that can draw power and make the car's power consumption read higher than it would otherwise.
Sincerely,
Macster.
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Hey thanks everyone!! I cleaned connections but to be honest the battery comp is in showroom condition however I may have a original battery and my car is a 2002....SO far I put my battery on a recondition charger and have been using the Porsche 500mA cigarette lighter charger and locking the car when not using and it seems to be starting and working....I may try re read the amperage draw and wait over an hour to see if it drops like BostonDUce said....I only waited 5-10 min....If all else fails ill buy a new battery.....Thanks everyone!!!
#10
Race Director
Hey thanks everyone!! I cleaned connections but to be honest the battery comp is in showroom condition however I may have a original battery and my car is a 2002....SO far I put my battery on a recondition charger and have been using the Porsche 500mA cigarette lighter charger and locking the car when not using and it seems to be starting and working....I may try re read the amperage draw and wait over an hour to see if it drops like BostonDUce said....I only waited 5-10 min....If all else fails ill buy a new battery.....Thanks everyone!!!
Why spend time attempting to resurrect a battery that is at death's door anyhow? You'll get a bit of false security and then the thing will die and possibly leave the car and you stranded anyhow.
Also, there's a slight risk in the failing battery taking something along with it: Alternator? Or possibly worse.
Just bite the bullet and buy a new battery. After 8+ years I think you've gotten your money's worth out of the old one.
Sincerely,
Macster.