Bruce8989

My check engine light came on, so took the car in for a look. Car is running great, and only has 20,000 miles.

Service advisor says - P1411 code came up and wants to drop the engine to do a proper diagnosis. Suspects vacuum leak. Estimate to diagnose the problem (not fix it) is $3000. Is it really necessary to pull the engine to fix this problem?

If it is, what else should I have them do while the engine is out? Clutch?

Your thoughts and advice is GREATLY appreciated.

wross996tt

do a leak test...search for DIY leak test. I would not pay $3K just to teat for leaks (guy sounds like a ripoff artist...I would run). Absolutely NO need to drop engine for this test or repair.

JG 996T

Drop the engine? Business must be slow. I had these codes,
Dealer replaced leaking valve.

Leonardo111

Here is a really detailed video showing how to diagnose and fix this:
And links to cheap new parts

Cesar Danny

New sai pump, 40 amp fuse ok. New relay. No power to SAI pump. Help!

blazen244

Well thats next on my list of things to do not as well versed as some of you guys or as familiar but is there any info on where the diverter valves are? I think I'd like to try to repair my self before sending back for this I can use the shop for more important heavier work thanks in advance.

Sott08

If it’s both banks it’s likely the diverter valves. The way the system works is on cold start, the solenoid on the lower DV (Diverter Valve) hose switches over and makes vacuum run not straight from the plenum to the top DV port anymore, but through the vacuum canister and the 4-way connector under the plenum and then to the tops of the DV’s. If one or both is leaking, the system is never able to pull a vacuum, which means it cannot open the SAI valves, which means you get the error code. Along with running issues because the cold start mapping is expecting that air flow to heat the cats up fast. I suspect this was Porsche’s way of running a self diagnostic on the diaphragm. If it’s a code for only one side, other diagnosis is necessary.

The reason the car will still make normal boost even with a leaking stock DV is because the leaks generally run from the top vacuum port thru to the F-hose port which, when under boost, also has pressure. Basically they balance each other out then when you like off throttle it shoves the DV’s open.

blazen244

Great thanks for the help now the million dollar well at least the 500.00 question is where are they and should I go OEM or upgrade?