tbarcelo

Hi all -

I am looking at 2001 TT with ~54k miles. I love the color combo, and I my read on the current owner is that he has been very good about upkeep and does not drive the car particularly hard. He has owned it for about 7 years and has records. It is garaged at home and at work.

He had another interested buyer ask for a PPI. Unfortunately, the seller's usual dealership performed the PPI (wouldn't have been my first choice, but hey, it's free). I did not get to speak to the tech, but I did get to speak to a service manager. There were a few minor electrical issues that the seller immediately fixed, but there were two issues that caused me some concern. My question for you guys is how concerned should I be:

1. "Some corrosion on underbody lines and exhaust"
2. "Clutch is releasing high"

The owner is surprised by #1 because the car is in GA and he rarely, if ever, drives in poor weather. The car did live its first 2 years in NY state. I asked for more information from the dealer and the service rep talked to the tech. Apparently the tech said that there is no performance issue, but maintenance could get expensive if a stud were to break off when removing the exhaust and it had to be drilled and tapped. Unfortunately, I didn't get to talk to the tech and I don't have pictures, but what is your opinion on this issue?

#2 is also odd because this same dealership replaced the clutch at 41k miles. The service rep told me that there is no adjustment in the "take-up" point so a high release is indicative of a clutch that is failing. The owner is extremely surprised by this - I don't think it is an act, I honestly think this guy does not drive the car hard at all. Are there other explanations for the high release?

I have found some few guard's red cars that meet my other criteria that I hate to let this one go if these issues are considered minor by the experts, but I'm not crazy about corrosion.

I also have the service history from this dealership from 3/2004 and 29k miles through present if anyone would be kind enough to review it with me for other potential issues.

Regards,
Trevor

tbarcelo

A bit more info, and I, of course, welcome comments:

The car had a 30k service done in Mar 2004 (@29k miles) and a 45k service done in Feb 2007 (@42k miles). The service records show a gap between Mar 04 and Feb 07 and another gap between Mar 08 and present. He thinks that an oil change or two may have been done at his "tire" place, but that's about it. I'm guessing that oil changes are not being done yearly, but only the "big" services are getting done.

Also, the service records indicate - replaced both diff axle seals and MAF at 29k miles, replaced cracked coolant reservoir, front brakes, rear main seal (pulled engine/tranny), and clutch at 41k miles.

Macster

Having 996 Turbo oil changed at "tire place" explains the short clutch life. The tire monkeys are taking the car out on their lunch break. (I caught a Chevy lube tech doing to my 06 GTO and captured the trip data on another episode when I took the car back to my local Pontiac dealer for some warranty work (door handle) and tires and alignment. Shortly after that I traded the GTO in for a 2008 Cayman S. At least the Porsche techs don't thrash my cars when my back is turned.)

Oh, oil changes are big services, "big" in that they are very important they be done regularly and the right oil used.

Find out what oil was used. I shiver when I think what could have been used... Did this guy take his own oil to the shop? (Which means probably the tech dumped in the cheap stuff and stashed the good synthetic oil in his car at lunch to use in his own vehicles...) What's the oil pressure at idle hot and at say 3K rpms hot?

For the corrosion some under car chassis/suspension/drivetrain components will suffer some corrosion when driven in areas where salt and sand/grit is used when roads snowy/icy. This is normal and part of life, a car's life. I've seen some pretty rusty exhaust hangers on some Porsches that live in that part of the country. You can count on replacing these every 3 to 5 years as part of regular maintenance. The exhaust system is pretty robust but the hangers will rust and so will the clamps that hold the pipes together.

Get car on a lift -- lift by raising car by its tires/wheels not by the body lifting points -- and check the lift points for damage. This tire shop probably used regular floor jacks and these mar the protective finish that is at the lift points and this gives corrosion a place to start. Also, be sure when you are under the car the car wasn't lifted by the jack in teh wrong place. Look for dented sills or depressions in the bottom of the front trunk, etc.

In real severe winter usage the grit can sand blast some of the underbody finish off and this can lead to a foothold for corrosion. Inspect to make sure this isn't the case.

Sincerely,

Macster.

tbarcelo

Macster,

Thanks for the input. I think I have decided to pass on this one. I have avoided doing this, but I think I might post a WTB thread. It never hurts to have a few more eyes looking, but I am pretty well versed on the 996 TTs on the market right now.

Regards,
Trevor

BostonDuce

What extent is the "corrosion"? Is it just minor effervescence , or full blown brown crust?

I had some minor 'corrosion' at 1000 miles.

The 'tech' should have stopped with "maintenance could get expensive" never mind the possible 'broken studs'.

Any car driven and subject to the elements will have some of the anodized coating for the chassis and exhaust fasteners compromised. As long as there is oxygen and moisture there will be corrosion, and salt and heat just makes it worse.

And speaking of mileage, that car figures for about 6K/year. With almost a 9 qt dry sump system, you'd be within the factory low mileage OCI of every 2 years.

There is a question of what type of oil was used as Macster said, especially if the work was done by pump jockeys who think because Honda and Ford use 5W-20, it should be aces for everyone. However, I've had issues with dealers trying to put in non-specified oil. Your roll of the dice with almost any car.

Did the owner practice the turbo cool down routine? Did they pull the turbo side intercooler hoses and look for oil? Did they give you an indication of the number of ignitions exceeding the maximum RPM? These are big money job indicators.

As far as the clutch goes, not impossible it would be gone so soon, but unlikely, unless your guy is bi-polar. Could be installation error from the replacement job.

Final point, (not being fresh or anything) you are looking at a high performance whip which requires certain, regular maintenance, that is 9 years old and has 50K+ miles of someone else driving it. You will have issues and expenses guaranteed.

This car may have an issue the next one doesn't, it's all a compromise when you buy anything used-or you will be searching forever.

BD

Edgy01

Two years in New York state will totally trash the fasteners and lines on a Porsche. I would pass on such a car. Find a real CLEAN car--there are literally thousands of these things out there.