996TT Buyer's Guide here on the forum?
01-30-2010, 03:59 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
996TT Buyer's Guide here on the forum?
Starting a SERIOUS search for a 996TT.......
I've read the Excellence buyer's guide since I have the last 5 years of issues but I am more interested if anybody here on the 996TT forum has put a thread together answer many of the typical questions, what to look for, etc, etc, etc..
Just trying to keep from starting a million threads asking a million different questions.....and most are just little things.....for example:
Why do some have "turbo" on the tach background and some don't?
See, that's one of the silly little one's.
With that said, I am sure many of the same things hold true that we have over in the 996GT3 forum....PPI, DME dump, type 1 and 2 over revs.
Thanks so much for any guidance and help!
I've read the Excellence buyer's guide since I have the last 5 years of issues but I am more interested if anybody here on the 996TT forum has put a thread together answer many of the typical questions, what to look for, etc, etc, etc..
Just trying to keep from starting a million threads asking a million different questions.....and most are just little things.....for example:
Why do some have "turbo" on the tach background and some don't?
See, that's one of the silly little one's.
With that said, I am sure many of the same things hold true that we have over in the 996GT3 forum....PPI, DME dump, type 1 and 2 over revs.
Thanks so much for any guidance and help!
01-30-2010, 04:49 PM
#2
Super Moderator
Needs More Cowbell
Lifetime Rennlist
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Needs More Cowbell
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I promoted Jaime's (Wachuko) post to Sticky status at the top of the fourm a while back.
It had some links to some good posts and generally lots of good 996T information.
It had some links to some good posts and generally lots of good 996T information.
01-30-2010, 05:50 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks Lewis. Looks like in addition to being new to this forum, I am also blind
p.s. I think I answered my question about the script. 04-05 cars got the script (or ones that got a replaced cluster).
p.s. I think I answered my question about the script. 04-05 cars got the script (or ones that got a replaced cluster).
Last edited by LVDell; 01-30-2010 at 06:08 PM.
02-01-2010, 02:43 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
I just concluded my search. . . (02 Coupe). I found wachuko's list helpful, as well as, posts on here relating to maintenance; MY comparisons; I also ordered a back issue of GT Purely Porsche, which had a 996T Buyers Guide (Jan 2008 issue). Good luck and have fun - the end result will be truly rewarding!
Last edited by JG 996T; 02-01-2010 at 03:24 PM.
02-01-2010, 02:51 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks so much for the tip. I'll look into the GT mag. Can you point me toward a model year comparo thread? That would be a nice read for me
Congrats on the new car. Saw your thread. Nice one
Congrats on the new car. Saw your thread. Nice one
02-01-2010, 03:16 PM
#6
Racer
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Not so silly; either the owner changed the gauge faces, or the factory was up to their usual BS and ran out of "turbo" faces. My car was to have "Turbo S" on the tach, instead I got just "Turbo".
Could've been worse, they could've thrown "944 S" on there.
On my car, they ran out of several, optional trim items, that were confirmed on the order form but never made it to production. I had to retrofit what I wanted.
Even the Factory "certification" which I got after delivery did not match the window sticker.
BD
Could've been worse, they could've thrown "944 S" on there.
On my car, they ran out of several, optional trim items, that were confirmed on the order form but never made it to production. I had to retrofit what I wanted.
Even the Factory "certification" which I got after delivery did not match the window sticker.
BD
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02-01-2010, 04:08 PM
#9
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
All for me 
I'm looking for a DD since I am tired of driving the 'Lade and only in a P-car when I drive the wife's CAB
I thought the dark side was the GT3? Isn't this more like the perverted dark side?
I'm looking for a DD since I am tired of driving the 'Lade and only in a P-car when I drive the wife's CAB
I thought the dark side was the GT3? Isn't this more like the perverted dark side?
02-01-2010, 04:17 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
more like the dark side on steroids, have you driven a 6TT? compared to your 6GT3 it will feel soft obviously, but not as floaty as a C2. But for a DD they are a great value, and for little money you can make them scary fast... Good luck with your search!
02-01-2010, 04:35 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
dark side on roids? I like
I have not driven one but rather instructed in them. I was very impressed although it did feel a tad...cough cough... heavy. But, for what I want to use it for, it is perfect. DD that can have the kids in the back seats, and occasionally tool around at a DE.
For my price point it seems like a no brainer between a 6TT or a 7Carrera. While the "look" is better in the 997, it's just not the same. And I'm not plopping down 7TT money. I have way too much tied up in other cars.
I have not driven one but rather instructed in them. I was very impressed although it did feel a tad...cough cough... heavy. But, for what I want to use it for, it is perfect. DD that can have the kids in the back seats, and occasionally tool around at a DE.
For my price point it seems like a no brainer between a 6TT or a 7Carrera. While the "look" is better in the 997, it's just not the same. And I'm not plopping down 7TT money. I have way too much tied up in other cars.
02-01-2010, 04:56 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Here's a buyer's guide from this forum -
Tips on Buying a Turbo Car
Ever wanted to own a turbocharged car, but never knew the right questions to ask? Turbo Technics have put together a buyers guide. You don't have to be a mechanic, but if you can take someone along with you it does help.
Here's what you do...........
First check under the bonnet (hood). Check the following...............
1. Engine oil condition. Black oil suggests poor maintenance.
2. Service history. Very important, especially for a turbo engine.
3. Receipts from previous turbo repairs. Proof of a reputable service history.
4. Aftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s name plate. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom ? Be suspicious if the repair was not carried out by a reputable company.
5. Oil leaks around the turbo. Signs of a poor turbo rebuild or a worn turbo.
6. Heat shields loose around the turbo. Sign of a recent replacement turbo.
7. Painted exhaust turbine housing. Could be trying to hide a poor quality turbo repair.
8. Water staining around the turbo bearing housing. Leaking water connections.
9. Alignment of hoses and connections. Poor alignment indicates a badly repaired turbo.
10. Non-genuine hose clips. May indicate poor workmanship.
11. Bleed valve on actuator hose. Turbo has been operating at a higher boost pressure that it was originally designed for. This may have damaged the turbo.
12. Dump valve. Indicates that other engine modifications may have been performed.
13. Replacement actuator. Uprated actuators are fitted to operate at a higher boost pressure. This may result in turbo damage.
14. Grip marks on actuator rod. Signs of a recently increased or reduced boost pressure adjustment or problems with the turbo.
15. Air filter condition. Signs of oil staining on the air filter may indicate engine wear.
16. Split compressor intake hose. Unfiltered air entering a turbo will cause damage to the compressor wheel.
17. Exhaust leaks. An incorrectly serviced engine can run weak, causing excessive heat build-up in the exhaust. This leads to warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold and turbine housing.
18. Non genuine oil filter. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car.
19. Retro-fitted boost gauges. Cars fitted with a boost gauge tend to have had the boost pressure increased.
20. Compressor wheel lift. Movement of the turbocharger’s rotating shaft, up and down, is an indication of turbo bearing wear.
21. Rubbing compressor wheel marks. If you can get the owners permission to remove the air filter hose, check signs of the rotating compressor wheel making contact with or rubbing the housing. This indicates excessive wear in the turbo bearings and means a turbo rebuild is imminent.
22. Actuator hose cracked or split. This will cause over-boost.
23. Intercooler damaged or split. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
24. Rubbing or split Intercooler hoses. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
25. Oil feed hose leaking. May lead to turbo oil starvation and eventual failure.
26. Oil drain hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the turbo oil return will lead to leaking turbo seals and blue oil smoke from the exhaust.
27. Breather hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the breather pipes or hoses may cause blue oil smoke from the exhaust.
28. Breather system "one-way" valve sticking. Can cause blue exhaust oil smoke.
29. Uprated or non genuine exhaust system. Reducing the exhaust back pressure with a free flow exhaust system can cause oil leakage from the turbo oil seals, leading to blue exhaust oil smoke.
Next comes the road test. Check the following...............
1. Whistling noise on acceleration. Turbo imbalance or air leak.
2. Rubbing noise on acceleration. Turbo bearings badly worn.
3. Poor performance. Low boost caused by defective turbo, wastegate mechanism or air leak.
4. Too much performance. Over boost may be due to an incorrectly adjusted or defective wastegate.
5. Hesitation - violent. This condition can be experienced when accelerating hard. The boost pressure exceeds a nominal value, leading to over boost (a safety cut out switch). The problem may be caused by a defective wastegate.
6. Hesitation - holding back. Engine mixture weak, or air restriction.
7. Pinking or detonation under load. Incorrect ignition setting, poor quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a poorly maintained engine.
8. Blue smoke under hard acceleration. Engine wear or defective breather system.
9. Blue smoke under deceleration. Engine wear.
Now whilst the engine is at normal operating temperature, leave the engine idling for 10 minutes. Check the following..................
1. Blue oil smoke at idle. Defective turbo seals, excessive bearing wear, defective breather system or restricted turbo oil drain system.
2. Black smoke at idle. Worn diesel injection pump or injectors or excessive over-fuelling.
3. White smoke at idle. Engine damage, cracked cylinder head or head gasket failure. Very rarely caused by a damaged turbocharger.
Congratulation. If all the tests above checked out OK, then your probably reaching for your cheque book now, but before you do, read the Turbo Technics Guide to Owning a Turbocharged Car.. . .
Ever wanted to own a turbocharged car, but never knew the right questions to ask? Turbo Technics have put together a buyers guide. You don't have to be a mechanic, but if you can take someone along with you it does help.
Here's what you do...........
First check under the bonnet (hood). Check the following...............
1. Engine oil condition. Black oil suggests poor maintenance.
2. Service history. Very important, especially for a turbo engine.
3. Receipts from previous turbo repairs. Proof of a reputable service history.
4. Aftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s name plate. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom ? Be suspicious if the repair was not carried out by a reputable company.
5. Oil leaks around the turbo. Signs of a poor turbo rebuild or a worn turbo.
6. Heat shields loose around the turbo. Sign of a recent replacement turbo.
7. Painted exhaust turbine housing. Could be trying to hide a poor quality turbo repair.
8. Water staining around the turbo bearing housing. Leaking water connections.
9. Alignment of hoses and connections. Poor alignment indicates a badly repaired turbo.
10. Non-genuine hose clips. May indicate poor workmanship.
11. Bleed valve on actuator hose. Turbo has been operating at a higher boost pressure that it was originally designed for. This may have damaged the turbo.
12. Dump valve. Indicates that other engine modifications may have been performed.
13. Replacement actuator. Uprated actuators are fitted to operate at a higher boost pressure. This may result in turbo damage.
14. Grip marks on actuator rod. Signs of a recently increased or reduced boost pressure adjustment or problems with the turbo.
15. Air filter condition. Signs of oil staining on the air filter may indicate engine wear.
16. Split compressor intake hose. Unfiltered air entering a turbo will cause damage to the compressor wheel.
17. Exhaust leaks. An incorrectly serviced engine can run weak, causing excessive heat build-up in the exhaust. This leads to warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold and turbine housing.
18. Non genuine oil filter. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car.
19. Retro-fitted boost gauges. Cars fitted with a boost gauge tend to have had the boost pressure increased.
20. Compressor wheel lift. Movement of the turbocharger’s rotating shaft, up and down, is an indication of turbo bearing wear.
21. Rubbing compressor wheel marks. If you can get the owners permission to remove the air filter hose, check signs of the rotating compressor wheel making contact with or rubbing the housing. This indicates excessive wear in the turbo bearings and means a turbo rebuild is imminent.
22. Actuator hose cracked or split. This will cause over-boost.
23. Intercooler damaged or split. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
24. Rubbing or split Intercooler hoses. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
25. Oil feed hose leaking. May lead to turbo oil starvation and eventual failure.
26. Oil drain hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the turbo oil return will lead to leaking turbo seals and blue oil smoke from the exhaust.
27. Breather hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the breather pipes or hoses may cause blue oil smoke from the exhaust.
28. Breather system "one-way" valve sticking. Can cause blue exhaust oil smoke.
29. Uprated or non genuine exhaust system. Reducing the exhaust back pressure with a free flow exhaust system can cause oil leakage from the turbo oil seals, leading to blue exhaust oil smoke.
Next comes the road test. Check the following...............
1. Whistling noise on acceleration. Turbo imbalance or air leak.
2. Rubbing noise on acceleration. Turbo bearings badly worn.
3. Poor performance. Low boost caused by defective turbo, wastegate mechanism or air leak.
4. Too much performance. Over boost may be due to an incorrectly adjusted or defective wastegate.
5. Hesitation - violent. This condition can be experienced when accelerating hard. The boost pressure exceeds a nominal value, leading to over boost (a safety cut out switch). The problem may be caused by a defective wastegate.
6. Hesitation - holding back. Engine mixture weak, or air restriction.
7. Pinking or detonation under load. Incorrect ignition setting, poor quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a poorly maintained engine.
8. Blue smoke under hard acceleration. Engine wear or defective breather system.
9. Blue smoke under deceleration. Engine wear.
Now whilst the engine is at normal operating temperature, leave the engine idling for 10 minutes. Check the following..................
1. Blue oil smoke at idle. Defective turbo seals, excessive bearing wear, defective breather system or restricted turbo oil drain system.
2. Black smoke at idle. Worn diesel injection pump or injectors or excessive over-fuelling.
3. White smoke at idle. Engine damage, cracked cylinder head or head gasket failure. Very rarely caused by a damaged turbocharger.
Congratulation. If all the tests above checked out OK, then your probably reaching for your cheque book now, but before you do, read the Turbo Technics Guide to Owning a Turbocharged Car.. . .
