Switched to the Mobil 5W-50 today
#16
Burning Brakes
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Say what?
Why buy oil or oil changes from a dealer? Aren't you tired of prison rape?![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
I switched to 5-50 Mobil 1 as well. Oil consumption has dropped my 2-3x! (So 2-3 times more miles between adding oil.) No other issues. I will run a Used Oil Analysis at 5k miles.
A
Why buy oil or oil changes from a dealer? Aren't you tired of prison rape?
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
I switched to 5-50 Mobil 1 as well. Oil consumption has dropped my 2-3x! (So 2-3 times more miles between adding oil.) No other issues. I will run a Used Oil Analysis at 5k miles.
A
#17
Burning Brakes
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I switched about a month ago. Got the oil via Chuck's hookup in NORCAL. I noticed immediately that the valvetrain was quieter at idle. Just in time too as the temp guage read 113 today in the car.
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I've been running it for a week....took one HARD and long run of over 75 miles.....and normally after a really hard run, I'd see it drop a little....so far, nada....but too soon to tell. I am confident that it'll end up like Adam's report.....better oil pressure, less consumption. Temps are over 100 now.
#23
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I couldn't ever find more than one type of Mobil 1 5W-50 here in the U.S., although there is a "Rally Formula" available in Europe. I talked to Kevin and he said I had the right M1 5W-50, so it went in the car.
#24
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Fascinating stuff.
I can't seem to find it on the Mobil 1 USA website
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...s/Mobil_1.aspx
So where exactly does this oil come from and what does it look like?
I can't seem to find it on the Mobil 1 USA website
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...s/Mobil_1.aspx
So where exactly does this oil come from and what does it look like?
#25
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I ordered the Mobil 1 5W-50 from a distributor here in the U.S.
The owner's manual only requires the oil here in the U.S. to have a classification of API, SH, or SJ. The GL classification is referred to on the Renntech site.
Here's the oil...it's classified API.
The owner's manual only requires the oil here in the U.S. to have a classification of API, SH, or SJ. The GL classification is referred to on the Renntech site.
Here's the oil...it's classified API.
![](http://i32.tinypic.com/j73okg.jpg)
#27
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Originally Posted by Chuck Jones
.....better oil pressure, less consumption.
pressure is not better. If you replace a badly worn oil pump and get
more pressure running the same oil, more pressure is good. If you
simply increase the fluid friction (viscosity), more pressure is a
by-definition result, but *not* a benefit. It's a cost. Within a Porsche-
approved oil range for the ambient temperature, it will be an inconsequential
cost, but not something to cheer. All it means is that the oil is requiring
more effort to get it from place to place. Less consumption means less
of the thicker oil is finding it's way through the narrow gaps in the valve
guides and past the rings. By inference, one may ask whether it is also
causing less oil to get into the small gaps you want lubricated. Oil
consumption is caused by gaps and lack of mating of metal surfaces.
Depending on what gaps they are, this may or may not be anything
bad for the engine, but it cannot be fixed by changing oil. The symptoms
can, but you can decrease oil consumption by changing to tar, too...
One area of user-observable symptoms that might be indicative might
be valvetrain noise. Less would be better. If increasing oil viscosity I would
pay special attention to any new startup clicking or rattle, especially if
there was none previously with the thinner oil. The only trustworthy way
to judge the real benefit of an oil change would be a comparative tear-down
examination of multiple engines after long term use. I would have to
trust folks who've done that. The sweet spot for me is that it's a Porsche
approved oil and that Kevin recommends it and it's hot around here.
#28
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5800 miles on it here. The last 3500 in sunny Florida with high temps.
Porsche would not approve it if it did not go where it was needed IMHO....Joe's post does make sense to me.
Double my mileage between oil top offs over 0w-40. No start up smoke at all and seemingly less crud on the pipes in back. (will the cats last longer???) 1050 to about 1800 miles per quart. I wonder if I burn less oil in warm weather period though, so my data may be very biased.
I cannot tell about the noise....less valve stuff in the beginning, but not much past that. I plan to keep using it as long as I can find it.
It is an approved weight for hot weather..so I plan to use it into the future. Car is at 39k.
Kevin is my main source of wisdom here...so I am sticking with it. I got it from the local Jiffy L in PA for 7$/qt. I still have 12 bottle left...not sure where I'll get it down here. After the next change. Anyone modify their change interval based on using 5w-50?
In the end, I suspect 5w-40 and 0w-40 for my needs would be fine too as long as I keep the oil topped off and change at a reasonable interval.
Here is the question: other than wasting money, does it do any damage to the engine to burn oil ....? IN these cars with real world experience? TIA
Jeff
Porsche would not approve it if it did not go where it was needed IMHO....Joe's post does make sense to me.
Double my mileage between oil top offs over 0w-40. No start up smoke at all and seemingly less crud on the pipes in back. (will the cats last longer???) 1050 to about 1800 miles per quart. I wonder if I burn less oil in warm weather period though, so my data may be very biased.
I cannot tell about the noise....less valve stuff in the beginning, but not much past that. I plan to keep using it as long as I can find it.
It is an approved weight for hot weather..so I plan to use it into the future. Car is at 39k.
Kevin is my main source of wisdom here...so I am sticking with it. I got it from the local Jiffy L in PA for 7$/qt. I still have 12 bottle left...not sure where I'll get it down here. After the next change. Anyone modify their change interval based on using 5w-50?
In the end, I suspect 5w-40 and 0w-40 for my needs would be fine too as long as I keep the oil topped off and change at a reasonable interval.
Here is the question: other than wasting money, does it do any damage to the engine to burn oil ....? IN these cars with real world experience? TIA
Jeff
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 09-08-2009 at 01:11 PM.
#29