vyper340

Just had the 30k service completed and the car ran great before the service. Now after service it hesitates and does not accelerate well when getting on it. It runs smooth under normal conditions but definitely does not get full power and hesitates under harder acceleration. It does not seem to get full boost either but there is no back-firing or symptom exhibited.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Wachuko

Loose hose...

Let me elaborate... from what you are describing one or more of the turbo hoses are loose or not installed correctly. That would be the first thing to check.

Or take it back to the place they did the work... get them to fix it.

Land Jet

Has your ECU had a reflash? I wonder if the when the dealer took readings of your car, they possibly flashed your ECU back to stock. Just a thought.

slant911

I'm with Jaime on this one. In order to do the 30K they had to take apart the hoses to get to the spark plugs. There is a connection on each side that is a b*tch to get back connected. When you hear that telltale "click" it is a satisfying relief that the hose is back together. If it doesn't click it's gonna leak.

vyper340

Thanks. I'll have them check those out too.

They are replacing the plugs (Beru) with Denso's and will check the coil packs closely since they didn't see anything the first time.

vyper340

The shop is a good one and one that I trust with my P-cars but I too thought of similar things... We checked codes and found nothing and they went over the car to see if anything was wrong and could not find anything. They are replacing the new OEM version plugs (Beru) with Denso's tomorrow and will check the coils packs since it's likely electrical in nature as it did not do this before the 30k service. The interesting thing is that if the coil packs were bad then it seems it would send a code and exhibit idle problems. The car only has the issue under acceleration and only gets .6 bar boost when it should be getting .9-1.0 bar.

BTW, my car has the GIAC DME, EVOMS DV's, and EVOMS CAI all of which are about 1 year old (<3k miles) and the car has run fine up to the spark plug change.

raineycd

Did they hook up any diagnostics to see if there are any misfires or boost problems - that would lead you to the plugs / coils or hoses...

vyper340

They did and found nothing at idle or with revs in the shop. They drove it and found what I was explaining so they are going for new plugs (Denso's this time) and see what happens.

The frustrating part of it all is that the car ran GREAT before the service and now after doing preventative maintenance I'm being punished with issues... Arghhh

wross996tt

First, what diagnostic tool are they using? PIWIS or PST2 or other? Second....they should have never put Berus in...those have been superseded by the Bosch plug. It does not sound exactly like a plug issue though. It does sound like a leak. Have them check the vacuum system. Did they reflash it? (I didn't see an answer to this previously posted question)

vyper340

They are using Durametric (new version) and they did use Bosch (I think) but have switched to the better Denso and then found some small cracks in the coil packs. They are replacing the packs and I am paying the $60 for the packs with no labor.

They did not reflash (no need to) when it was in a couple of weeks ago for the 30k svc. Even if they had it shouldn't make the car do anything unusual for aceleration. I have a GIAC stage 2 unit and they had no reason to reflash or even hook up to a scan tool at the orginal service. Once again the car ran perfectly before the service.

I'm inclinded to think it's electrical in nature based on the way it pulls under acceleration but a leak in boost could be a culprit. They said they did not lower the engine to do the plugs nor did they move any hoses... is that possible???

wross996tt

Yes could be coil packs

What we mean by re-flash is to flash the ECU back to stock...dealers will do this at major intervals sometimes...and yes it would have a huge effect.


Sorry, don't understand your rationale.

Yes that is possible...and likely? Seems strange you are getting no codes if your coil packs are bad you should throw codes

vyper340

This is an indy shop so they wouldn't reflash unless I'm missing something...

Electrical because it pulls like it is fuel or electrical under acceleration but idles fine. There is no reason for any hose to be loose or bad since they didn't touch any of them so reason says it's electrical since that is the area they touched.

I'm wondering if I should be paying for coils that were not exhibiting problems before the service but now are "cracked". Again, there are no codes thrown but they did see some "small" cracks on the coils when they were putting in the second set of plugs. Thoughts?

raineycd

I don't think I would sweat paying for the coil packs. They are iffy and could have been cracked and just aggravated during the plug change. As long as they are eating the labor, I would probably not mind paying for the coils. I have worked on enough cars / computers and know crap happens that is no ones fault... Sounds like they are taking care of you by doing the labor.

Hope that fixes the problem!

slant911

Not sure how they would replace spark plugs without touching or disconnecting any hoses. I guess anything is possible but after having done my own plug change I just don't see how it's possible to get the coil packs and plugs changed without undoing the boost hoses to the IC's which need to come off the car to get to the plugs. Something doesn't add up.

Chuck Jones

I pulled off the IC hoses and then just bent up the heat shield to get it out of the way. When you're done, just bend it back down and you cant even see a crease....again, some folks would consider bending up the heat shield to get it out of the way as heresy, but they dont' burn witches anymore.

When conecting the hose back up, just make sure you align the wire clip properly...spray a little WD40 on the metal connector, and jam it in till you hear it click....if it doesn't click, it will pop out on you and the car will go into limp mode. If that happens on the passenger's side, you can access it from the engine compartment and just muscle it back down into the receptacle without having to go back under the wheel well....the process looks a little rough, but it's no big deal really. You really have to yank on those hoses to make sure they're set in there properly.