ND01996TT

Hey everyone...I'm new on here and just picked up a '01 996tt w/ 19k miles on it from San Diego. (i live in the detroit area)

I got the car and it seemed super slow! I took it to my buddy's shop and it had a knock sensor code thrown. we called a dealer and they said this was a "dummy code" and that we should check for vacuum leaks. The code was cleared and the car was looked over and the only thing we could find was a small crack in one the vacuum hoses and we replaced it. subsequently, the car drove great for a day and then went back into "limp mode" or "slow mode." Did another once other and couldn't find anything. Cleared the code drove it a day and was running strong then this morning back into "slow mode." I don't really consider it "limp mode" because the car is still building boost. It takes about 6 seconds in 2nd gear to go from 4k rpm to redline. I'm not sure what to do and i'm pretty bummed that my brand new turbo is having these issues. Can anyone help me out with this matter! I'm pulling my hair out!

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help!

wross996tt

tell is about the mods...and give us the codes...and you say "brand new turbo"...I guess not. We will figure it out...does not sound bad. Keep the faith. Quick guess is a MAF.

ND01996TT

The car is completely stock....The only aftermarket parts are a set of brand new DVs (bosch 710n) and a set of wheels.

Brand new turbo to me...I have only had it for 2 weeks!

the code-->Knock sensor 1 below limit....I will get the actual code tomorrow

Dealer told my Tech that its a "dummy code" have you heard of that before?

Thanks for your Help!

wross996tt

Forgot to welcome you properly, so welcome aboard. Dummy code is probably the guy doesn't know what it is (i.e., he is a dummy). Many use this vernacular to describe the emissions codes that don't really hurt performance. This does not mean you should not figure it out and fix it. Give us the actual number and we can help with the diagnosis....

P0327 210 Knock sensor 1 - below limit

Possible fault cause
♦ Break in wiring or short to ground
♦ Contact corrosion on the connector
♦ Knock sensor loose
♦ Short circuit to B+
♦ Knock sensor

Note:
♦ When a fault is stored, the ignition angle is retarded for all cylinders
in the range in which knock control is active.
♦ Knock control adaptation is inactive.
♦ If knock control becomes active here, this may indicate engine
damage (increased noise level)

slant911

AFtermarket DV's may need to be looked at. Check for leaks around the installation of those things. Do get the actula codes though.

Tim Wasmer

Silly thought here but could it be bad gas? MAF sounds right to.

ND01996TT

First, thanks for the help!!

I have had two full tanks of gas put in that were both shell 93 from two different gas stations so I doubt that is the problem. Also my MAF was thoroughly cleaned and no change.

I will get the actual codes! thought i had them at work but must be at home. Ill get them on here later today hopefully!

Just had another Tech i know break down the whole intake and inspect all hoses and found nothing out of the ordinary. however because the motor was not dropped out of the car we could not see the actual knock sensor or wiring.

ND01996TT

I'm 99% sure that its a bad knock sensor. Check out everything with a friend of mine that used to work on a lot of porsches.

Did a little looking around and found some receipts so I called the shop the car had been at last. I found out from the old owners mechanic that this problem was present intermittently for along time and that they kept telling him to fix it. He just didn't want to spend $$ on R&R of motor. To change the knock sensor (i'm gonna change both for good measure) you have to have the motor out of the car. Its quite unfortunate the previous owner did not share that info with me! The owner had, unhonestly, stated he had always had a good bill of health since he owned it.

Since i am going to have the motor out, is there anything else maitnence wise I should take care of or are known to be a problem. I Figure since iI will have the motor out I might as take care of anything that is know to go bad and is hard to access.

Thanks for your Help!! Much Appreciated!!

ltc

If the motor is going to be out of the car, it's an excellent opportunity to change the plugs from FR5 to FR6 (factory change occured after MY01).
Also take a peek at the RMS, clutch and flywheel (RMS issues are uncommon on M64/GT1 derived lumps, but do still occur).
Look around for any weeping near covers/gaskets, etc.
Might also be an excellent opportunity to strip the cosmolene off of the engine (depending on where you live and if you were thinking of doing it)
Also just check the motor mounts as well.

ZX9RCAM

Coil packs......

adam_

It's rare to have hard evidence of a material misrepresentation...usually it is just a suspicion. It'd be great if a family member was an attorney!

Good luck

A

Mikelly

Here's what I did when I was having this issue...

I swapped out all the turbo hoses, which did NOTHING for the problem (Was going into limp mode even after a new MAF was installed) but it allowed me the opportunity to remove and inspect the DVs (Previous owner had Bailey DVs installed) and I was able to inspect every piece of vacuum tubing associated with the system, and mine turned out to be at the micro switch that sits below the turbo hose on the driver's side in the engine compartment, that had an "iffy" connection. Under anything over .5 bar of boost it would trip into limp mode. I was able to duplicate the situation and once I fixed it, the car was much happier.

Get a durametric and take your time... Also, You don't have to remove the motor to check these items OR to replace the spark plugs. You do have to remove the bumper cover and intercoolers though.

Mike

ND01996TT

Fortunately my Father is a lawyer and we will see where this goes. Its unfortunate that people are so dishonest!

Thanks for all your help and suggestions!

Patrick E

No PPI?

MechanicalEng

I was gonna ask the same... did you get a PPI...??