Need good PPI shop near Boca Raton FL..
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Hi to all..long time away and now coming back to the P-Car
after my ViperGTS run. I am looking to buy an 02 996tt X50 (38k miles) and am currently getting a quote for the PPI from Champion Porsche where all service has been performed.
In case they dont want to or it comes back very high can any of you reccomend a good shop since I will be buying this car if everything checks out.
Also any idea of cost for a detailed PPI?
Thanks in advance and I welcome any comments or suggestions.
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In case they dont want to or it comes back very high can any of you reccomend a good shop since I will be buying this car if everything checks out.
Also any idea of cost for a detailed PPI?
Thanks in advance and I welcome any comments or suggestions.
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Reputable though $$$ and so large you wonder whether quality gets diluted. Not sure they'd give you the attention since you're not buying through their lucrative CPO program.
I heard FVD is a good shop for upgrades (I think affiliated with the German tuner).
I've developed loyalty for Foreign since Bob V has gone to bat for me with Champion/PCNA when I had a cat converter failure on my previous Pcar (I had a GHL exhaust). He is also listed as "Chief of Tech" for the PCA chapter down here.
Another .02, go with one of the established independents.
I heard FVD is a good shop for upgrades (I think affiliated with the German tuner).
I've developed loyalty for Foreign since Bob V has gone to bat for me with Champion/PCNA when I had a cat converter failure on my previous Pcar (I had a GHL exhaust). He is also listed as "Chief of Tech" for the PCA chapter down here.
Another .02, go with one of the established independents.
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I really appreciate all of your responses especially because I dont know anybody in your area.
If ppi cost comes back to high $$$ can you please recommend a must check list on a ppi.
My original list which I researched on this forum is:
2002 996TT X50
ECU readout
SW version/checksum verification
Type1 and Type 2 over revs reported
eDCS listing of configuration/options
leakdown/compression test
verification of FR6 plugs installed
complete TSB/service history
OBDII emissions check
consumables (brakes, clutch) check
leaks check
fluids verification
listing of all non OEM parts and modifications
verify proper operation of all options
road test
proper temp/pressure
possible popping out of second
weak slave cylinder
any vibration/pad transfer feel in brakes
check for rust/corrosion/cracks or paint overspray.
Thanks in Advance for all of your help in this very important purchase.
If ppi cost comes back to high $$$ can you please recommend a must check list on a ppi.
My original list which I researched on this forum is:
2002 996TT X50
ECU readout
SW version/checksum verification
Type1 and Type 2 over revs reported
eDCS listing of configuration/options
leakdown/compression test
verification of FR6 plugs installed
complete TSB/service history
OBDII emissions check
consumables (brakes, clutch) check
leaks check
fluids verification
listing of all non OEM parts and modifications
verify proper operation of all options
road test
proper temp/pressure
possible popping out of second
weak slave cylinder
any vibration/pad transfer feel in brakes
check for rust/corrosion/cracks or paint overspray.
Thanks in Advance for all of your help in this very important purchase.
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If Champion did the servicing, they should be able to give you the full service history. Catch them at a good time they can do this over the 'phone. Other's will only have the warrantee claim history. Key items to look for,
scheduled service 15 & 30k (30k should include plugs anyway)
Power steering pump leak condition/replacement
I'd expect around $150 for a basic inspection without the compression/leak down. When I was looking, type I & II overrevs were common. It's very easy to bounce of the rev limiter in this car in 1st or 2nd, type ones are common, others have seen type IIs after bouncing off the limiter. It doesn't necessarily spell "abuse" (dropping into a low gear at speed creating a mechanical overrev). I've read it works out as a count of 6 for every revolution of the crank. Does 12 or 15 at over 6000 rpm sound like abuse?
I live just South of Boca BTW & not affiliated with the auto business. If you're serious about the car I'll take a look at it, I'm not an expert but I was only shopping recently?
scheduled service 15 & 30k (30k should include plugs anyway)
Power steering pump leak condition/replacement
I'd expect around $150 for a basic inspection without the compression/leak down. When I was looking, type I & II overrevs were common. It's very easy to bounce of the rev limiter in this car in 1st or 2nd, type ones are common, others have seen type IIs after bouncing off the limiter. It doesn't necessarily spell "abuse" (dropping into a low gear at speed creating a mechanical overrev). I've read it works out as a count of 6 for every revolution of the crank. Does 12 or 15 at over 6000 rpm sound like abuse?
I live just South of Boca BTW & not affiliated with the auto business. If you're serious about the car I'll take a look at it, I'm not an expert but I was only shopping recently?
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A few questions...
Both 15k & 30K service were performed @ Champion Porsche (all service).
Is there a guideline on what is an acceptable amount of Type1 & Type2 over revs?
Also what items on my list would you say are critical?
Thank You!
Both 15k & 30K service were performed @ Champion Porsche (all service).
Is there a guideline on what is an acceptable amount of Type1 & Type2 over revs?
Also what items on my list would you say are critical?
Thank You!
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Luke,
Some would say no type IIs are acceptable, but I'm looking from a practical perspective (my personal experience seeing type IIs may not be indicative). It is a very rugged engine and unless it's had ECU work, it runs well within mechanical limits. I'm sure others will have an opinion, have the ECU read then post it.
There are a lot more experience than mine on this board; chime in guys!
Don't forget tires ($$$).
Critical for me would be any gearbox or transmission issues, collision/frame damage, leaks, paint damage (you won't see rust on a FL car, that would be problem), ECU read. Otherwise your list is pretty comprehensive and most of the items easy to check. The compression/leakdown test is a personal decision; mine was an obvious garage queen with 21k miles and drove great without smoke. Not seeing it yourself it may be worthwhile.
Some would say no type IIs are acceptable, but I'm looking from a practical perspective (my personal experience seeing type IIs may not be indicative). It is a very rugged engine and unless it's had ECU work, it runs well within mechanical limits. I'm sure others will have an opinion, have the ECU read then post it.
There are a lot more experience than mine on this board; chime in guys!
Don't forget tires ($$$).
Critical for me would be any gearbox or transmission issues, collision/frame damage, leaks, paint damage (you won't see rust on a FL car, that would be problem), ECU read. Otherwise your list is pretty comprehensive and most of the items easy to check. The compression/leakdown test is a personal decision; mine was an obvious garage queen with 21k miles and drove great without smoke. Not seeing it yourself it may be worthwhile.
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Type 1 and Type 2 overrevs are a fairly unimportant bit of information that causes alot of unneeded concern. Much like discussing the men your wife/girlfriend has been with prior to you. What are you going to do with this information? Not buy the car? If you have driven a 996TT it is almost impossible not to hit an over rev when you are driving hard. Remember the rev-limiter is there for a reason, to protect the valvetrain. I am not promoting this type of driving.
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Type 1 and Type 2 overrevs are a fairly unimportant bit of information that causes alot of unneeded concern. Much like discussing the men your wife/girlfriend has been with prior to you. What are you going to do with this information? Not buy the car? If you have driven a 996TT it is almost impossible not to hit an over rev when you are driving hard. Remember the rev-limiter is there for a reason, to protect the valvetrain. I am not promoting this type of driving.
What would be a standard list to request be checked?
T.I.A.!