Kussmaul Settings on TT?
#1
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Has anyone tried to apply the "Kussmaul" GT3 alignment settings to the 996TT? Does this even make any sense?
I am preparing my car for my 1st track event and am wondering what a good starting point would be.
I have the H&R Suspension for now with f/r sway bars.
Thanks,
I am preparing my car for my 1st track event and am wondering what a good starting point would be.
I have the H&R Suspension for now with f/r sway bars.
Thanks,
#3
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Roland Kussumaul...:
GT3 Mk-II (2004-2005) Kussumaul
Front Axle
ride height 115 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe Unpressed (total) +5'
Toe difference angle
at 20deg lock -1º 20' ± 30'
Camber (with wheels
in straight-aheand
position) -2.5º ± 5'
max. difference, left
to right 5'
Caster 8º ± 30' (same as stock)
max. difference, left
to right 30'
Stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost) (same as stock)
Rear Axle
ride height 128 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe per wheel +35' ± 2'
max. difference, left
to right 5' (same as stock)
Camber -2.3º 50' ± 5'
max. difference, left
to right 10' (same as stock)
stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost)
GT3 Mk-II (2004-2005) Kussumaul
Front Axle
ride height 115 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe Unpressed (total) +5'
Toe difference angle
at 20deg lock -1º 20' ± 30'
Camber (with wheels
in straight-aheand
position) -2.5º ± 5'
max. difference, left
to right 5'
Caster 8º ± 30' (same as stock)
max. difference, left
to right 30'
Stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost) (same as stock)
Rear Axle
ride height 128 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe per wheel +35' ± 2'
max. difference, left
to right 5' (same as stock)
Camber -2.3º 50' ± 5'
max. difference, left
to right 10' (same as stock)
stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost)
#6
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The track for my 1st DE in the 996 TT will be Road Atlanta.
My goal is to minimize/eliminate understeer. I'm not sure how much negative camber I can get out of the H&R suspension. I hope it can go as far as negative 2.5
I will start with the Kussmaul allignment specs to the extent possible.
Thanks
My goal is to minimize/eliminate understeer. I'm not sure how much negative camber I can get out of the H&R suspension. I hope it can go as far as negative 2.5
I will start with the Kussmaul allignment specs to the extent possible.
Thanks
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#8
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it will be impossible to get 2.5 neg with just the H&R. I think max is around 1.8+-. to get any where close to the k settings takes some major reworking of the suspension and pieces.
#9
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Jon
Alignment settings are hugely subjective to each car, track, tire sizes, tire brand and tire category, driver, weather, etc..
The Porsche factory tester's settings are certainly a very good general setup but cannot be considered optimum for you, or me, or anyone, including himself on every track. The Gt3 and TT suspension geometry is very different as well and weight distribution is different, so are tire sizes, therefore these settings cannot be considered great for you, among many other reasons + these settings are for a track mainly car. With this camber you will be eating up your tires quite rapidly and loosing driving comofrt.
What is more important is that, since this seems like your first DE, I am afraid you might be putting the carriage ahead of the horses. I would take an instructor for the first 2-3 sessions, understand the impact of mass transfer on the car's behaviour, experiment with trail braking with the help of the instructor, change tire pressures as you evolve to neutralize somewhat understeer if any , etc.. Later on, I would change alignment settings, if really needed, but that comes quite a bit later! A good ballpark is to have the same front and rear camber, probably a -1.5 on both ends would help quite a bit.
Alignment settings are hugely subjective to each car, track, tire sizes, tire brand and tire category, driver, weather, etc..
The Porsche factory tester's settings are certainly a very good general setup but cannot be considered optimum for you, or me, or anyone, including himself on every track. The Gt3 and TT suspension geometry is very different as well and weight distribution is different, so are tire sizes, therefore these settings cannot be considered great for you, among many other reasons + these settings are for a track mainly car. With this camber you will be eating up your tires quite rapidly and loosing driving comofrt.
What is more important is that, since this seems like your first DE, I am afraid you might be putting the carriage ahead of the horses. I would take an instructor for the first 2-3 sessions, understand the impact of mass transfer on the car's behaviour, experiment with trail braking with the help of the instructor, change tire pressures as you evolve to neutralize somewhat understeer if any , etc.. Later on, I would change alignment settings, if really needed, but that comes quite a bit later! A good ballpark is to have the same front and rear camber, probably a -1.5 on both ends would help quite a bit.
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Good advice Jean.
This isn't my first ever DE. I have been doing this for about 10 years including a couple of years racing in SCCA with an ITS car. I now instruct with the BMW CCA.
This is my 2nd Porsche. My first was a 1985 Ruf BTR based on a 930 with a factory slant nose. That car was a handful at the track. My most recent track time has been in a highly prepared E36 M3. I expect there to be substantial differences between the M3 and the 996 TT.
I look forward to taking it slow and learning as I go.
Thanks
This isn't my first ever DE. I have been doing this for about 10 years including a couple of years racing in SCCA with an ITS car. I now instruct with the BMW CCA.
This is my 2nd Porsche. My first was a 1985 Ruf BTR based on a 930 with a factory slant nose. That car was a handful at the track. My most recent track time has been in a highly prepared E36 M3. I expect there to be substantial differences between the M3 and the 996 TT.
I look forward to taking it slow and learning as I go.
Thanks
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Jon
You have good track experience then, most of what I have said you know it already..
For the 996 I would try first as is, and experiment with getting to grips with its mass transfer characteristics and tire pressures (I think reducing the pressure gap Fr-Rr to a couple of psi only should generally help).
If this is still not working on your track and your conditions, then, I would dial in more camber in the front to have Fr and Rr the same for a start, stock suspension will take you around -1.5 deg I think, which is more than enough for a fun track day.
What you will need for sure is a good brake bleeding job and good pads on these cars as a starting point.
Have fun.
You have good track experience then, most of what I have said you know it already..
For the 996 I would try first as is, and experiment with getting to grips with its mass transfer characteristics and tire pressures (I think reducing the pressure gap Fr-Rr to a couple of psi only should generally help).
If this is still not working on your track and your conditions, then, I would dial in more camber in the front to have Fr and Rr the same for a start, stock suspension will take you around -1.5 deg I think, which is more than enough for a fun track day.
What you will need for sure is a good brake bleeding job and good pads on these cars as a starting point.
Have fun.
#13
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Thanks Jean. I appreciate the advice.
I have purchased the Pagid Yellows for the front and Blacks for the rear.
I plan to do a good blead with Motul racing fluid. (I got them from Craig at *********).
I have purchased the Pagid Yellows for the front and Blacks for the rear.
I plan to do a good blead with Motul racing fluid. (I got them from Craig at *********).
#14
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Hi Guy reviving an old thread
I have my forst track day in my stock suspension 04 tt
I would like to start with the allignment fairly agressive as I have done a fair amount of driving, just not with this on the track. I have no problem with putting it back to a softer allignment after the day is over so tyre ware is not the issue.
The question i put to you is what do you run for alignment and tyre pressures?
Yes I know it is subjective and personal but it will give me a closer startting point when I am under the car dialling it in
cheers in advance
I have my forst track day in my stock suspension 04 tt
I would like to start with the allignment fairly agressive as I have done a fair amount of driving, just not with this on the track. I have no problem with putting it back to a softer allignment after the day is over so tyre ware is not the issue.
The question i put to you is what do you run for alignment and tyre pressures?
Yes I know it is subjective and personal but it will give me a closer startting point when I am under the car dialling it in
cheers in advance
#15
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Car has coilovers, sways, control arms, drop links, etc. All customizable.
I had my shop take it to Euro GT2 way back in a fashion and make it rear tire sort of nice....less camber....thousands saved...probably less tidy for a 10/10ths red driver, but fine for me.
The mechanic got the stuff out of "the book" whatever that means...stock euro gt2 settings.
Well....pretty much perfect.
jeff
I had my shop take it to Euro GT2 way back in a fashion and make it rear tire sort of nice....less camber....thousands saved...probably less tidy for a 10/10ths red driver, but fine for me.
The mechanic got the stuff out of "the book" whatever that means...stock euro gt2 settings.
Well....pretty much perfect.
jeff