Wachuko

Anything I am missing???

Here is the list of things I should receive:

1. Owner's Manuals, Maintenance Booklet
2. All keys
3. Radio code card
4. Tools
5. Service documents with recalls and TSBs performed
6. Print out of over revs Type 1 and Type 2 error codes
7. Porsche Approved Certified PreOwned Vehicle Warranty Documents
8. Copy of the inspection for the Porsche CPO warranty
9. 60K Service Voucher must also explicitly mention that it includes a brake fluid change
10. New floor mats
11. New battery and plug-in charger
12. Dent removed
13. Front lip spoiler changed
14. Detailed
15. Full tank of gas
16. Extra set of wiper blades
17. The car


Here is a list of stuff to check before I take delivery (had to make a list based on the TSBs and threads found here so it is NOT that my car has all these issues... I just made the list to check when I stop by on Thursday):

1. Check for Dual Mass Flywheel Transmission noises (rattling, knocking noises at engine start, load shift, during idling or when switching off the engine). If I hear this I need to hand it over to the service folks since test needs to be performed by service department to determine if replacement is needed or if working correctly and noise is related to a different component.

2. Check Oil Pressure. If oil pressure light is on, lack of oil pressure when the engine is first started. Non-return check valve is installed between the oil tank and the engine to prevent tank from emptying into the crankcase when engine is turned off. Modified check valve installed from engine number M96/70-64 1 01282. New part has a light blue paint dot.

3. Check for power loss and lack of acceleration. Poor acceleration and loss of power because of the pressure hose connecting the turbocharger inner cooler is loose. New pressure hose as of VIN 99 41S 68 5752 (July 2000). New pressure hose part numbers: 996 110 630 74 (R) and 996 110 631 73 (L)

4. Check for manual transmission damage. Second gear pops off. Caused by a assembly fault. Only occurs on transmissions up to the following number: 6530. Run the car and rollback on the throttle to see if it pops off.

5. Check to see if clutch pedal sticks. Clutch pedal may not return to its initial position or may become stuck. The axial motion in the plug-in couplings and the associated rolling of the sealing ring can admit air into the hydraulic system. A snap ring, PN 999 230 685 40, must be fitted and the system.

6. Check to see if clutch pedal sticks. Clutch pedal may not return to its initial position or may become stuck. Check slave cylinder and accumulator for replacement.

7. Check if the clutch pedal does not fully reach original position. After pressing the clutch, the clutch pedal is slow to come back up and does not fully reach its original position. This is caused by air in the hydraulic system.

8. Check for front axle differential noises. The front-axel differential makes noises in 4th, 5th, and 6th gears when vehicle is accelerated under a slight load (from 30-50mph) in vehicles equipped with manual transmission and Michelin 18" wheels. This is caused by rolling tolerances of the front wheels in relation to the rear wheels in combination with 18" Michelin tires. This is not a fault. The noises neither lead to any damage.

9. Check for noises in the steering. Clicking or grating noises during steering. Grating- This noise occurs when steering movements are made around the center position to full lock position. New stop plate required PN 996 343 107 03. Clicking - This noise occurs shortly before turning the steering wheel to full lock. A loose rod nut causes the noise. The solution is to tighten the strut piston rod fastening nut to the specified torque. Also, a longer piece of hose needs to be installed in the first few turns of the spring to replace shorter one initially in place.

10. Check for loud whistling noise from the engine area . A loud whistling noise can be heard (both inside and outside) from the engine area while driving. The noise is caused by the pressure control valve in the steering oil reservoir. Valve vibrates strongly when hydraulic oil flows through it. Fix is to replace the complete steering oil reservoir with the modified pressure control valve - PN 996 314 920 34

11. Check for noises in the rear seat well. Audible clicking-type noises in the rear seat well due to movements of the transverse reinforcement tube and contact with the rear seat well panel. Fix is to install felt tape between the reinforcement tube and the rear seat well panel.

12. Check the microswitch. Front lid lock issues with micro switch. Micro switch located on the bottom part of the front lid latch may stick causing: the light not to illuminate when the trunk is opened; the light not to go off when the trunk is closed (draining the battery); the alarm horn will sound when locking the car. A new micro switch was installed from the middle of Feb 2000 and can be identified by a yellow or blue paint dot in the micro switch.

13. Check for noises in the door lock area. Catch bar rubbing in the door lock. Fix is to spray silicone lubricant spray in the affected areas (in the inner area of the lock).

14. Check for noises from sunroof frame. Changes in the brackets as of Feb 2001 (from VIN 99 X1S 68 6484). Movement between the new sunroof frame and the roof causes creaking noises. Fix is to install two strips of Teflon tape and retorque bolts to new specs of 9.7Nm(7.4ft-lb).

15. Check for noises in the Tilting/Sliding sunroof. Muffled rattle from rear area of the tilting/sliding sunroof due to the loss of edge guard for the water drain bracket. When the edge guard is missing, the roof liner can bump into the sliding sunroof frame and cause noises. Fix is to install new edge guard for the water drain bracket.

16. Check rear spoiler operation

17. Check vanity mirror. If it is not working the fix (after validating fuse and light bulb) is to replace the vanity mirror PN 996 731 903 01 01C

18. Check if airbag warning light comes on. If so and it gives: Fault Codes 46 and 49. Fix is to change the seat plug connector and install a new belt buckle (passenger and driver side)

19. Validate that the memory for the seat and mirror work correctly when using the keys. As of model year 2001 if a locked vehicle is opened with the key head remote control, the driver's seat and the door mirror will be set in the position stored in the seat memory. Due to hardware fault, the radio code and the transponder code have been entered in different storage positions in the alarm control unit. Fix is to reprogram all the keys. Spare key is required when doing this.

20. Validate remote control range. If range sucks even after replacing battery the fix is to re-route antenna lead.

21. Check that the VIN matches number on the title and/or other documentation

22. Closely visual inspect the paint. Look closely at every panel. Spend at least 30 seconds per panel. Stand back and look at an entire side of the car. Make sure that the color does not vary (sign of repaint). Check that one wheel is not in better shap than any other (wheel replacement due to accident).

23. Check the tires for wear. Check if all tires are the same brand and type.

24. Check the undercarriage. Look for any scrapes/damage. Ideally put it up on a lift. Look for anything loose or worn. Make sure that the components/wear seems reasonable for the mileage on the car.

25. Check the brake pads and rotors for wear and correct thickness.

26. Check for wheel bearing play.

Wachuko

Anything else I should be including? Thanks!

Wachuko

If there is no additional feedback I least I hope this list will be a starting point to help others that are looking into buying a 996TT.

I an currently scheduled to pick up the car Friday morning.

38D

Check that the VIN matches number on the title and/or other documentation

Closely visual inspect the paint. Look closely at every panel. Spend at least 30 seconds per panel. Stand back and look at an entire side of the car. Make sure that the color does not vary (sign of repaint). Check that one wheel is not in better shap than any other.

Check the tires for wear.

Check the undercarriage. Look for any scrapes/damage. Ideally put it up on a lift. Look for anything loose or worn. Make sure that the components/wear seems reasonable for the mileage on the car.

Check the brake pads and rotors.

Check for wheel bearing play.

Wachuko

Thank you. List updated.

ltc

There are approximately 130 TSB's for the 996TT/GT2; obviously, some more important than others.
Have the dealer confirm that all service actions have been performed against this list.

Also, ask the dealer for a CoA (~$100 IIRC); to verify factory configuration/options.

Wachuko

OK, modified #5 on the deliverables list.

I think the Certificate of Authenticity needs to be order directly with PCNA. That is how I got the one for my 964 and 951.

ltc

Dealers used to order them and supply them with the car at delivery....

Wachuko

Cool! I was not aware of that. All I got was the window sticker with the options and pricing. Good to know, thanks!

ltc

Back then, they used to provide all kinds of little 'thank you's.
I've got a black ceramic 'Turbo' mug, a 'Turbo' Tshirt and a Porsche desk pylon with the VIN# on it.

thth

Let me hi-jack this thread. It might help others who're in the process of looking to buy as I am doing now.

Much appreciated to all your contributions !

Carlo_Carrera

Hello, I found this check list that pretty much just applies to the turbo, maybe you want to add it?



First check under the bonnet (hood). Check the following...............

1. Engine oil condition. Black oil suggests poor maintenance.
2. Service history. Very important, especially for a turbo engine.
3. Receipts from previous turbo repairs. Proof of a reputable service history.
4. Aftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s name plate. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom ? Be suspicious if the repair was not carried out by a reputable company.
5. Oil leaks around the turbo. Signs of a poor turbo rebuild or a worn turbo.
6. Heat shields loose around the turbo. Sign of a recent replacement turbo.
7. Painted exhaust turbine housing. Could be trying to hide a poor quality turbo repair.
8. Water staining around the turbo bearing housing. Leaking water connections.
9. Alignment of hoses and connections. Poor alignment indicates a badly repaired turbo.
10. Non-genuine hose clips. May indicate poor workmanship.
11. Bleed valve on actuator hose. Turbo has been operating at a higher boost pressure that it was originally designed for. This may have damaged the turbo.
12. Dump valve. Indicates that other engine modifications may have been performed.
13. Replacement actuator. Uprated actuators are fitted to operate at a higher boost pressure. This may result in turbo damage.
14. Grip marks on actuator rod. Signs of a recently increased or reduced boost pressure adjustment or problems with the turbo.
15. Air filter condition. Signs of oil staining on the air filter may indicate engine wear.
16. Split compressor intake hose. Unfiltered air entering a turbo will cause damage to the compressor wheel.
17. Exhaust leaks. An incorrectly serviced engine can run weak, causing excessive heat build-up in the exhaust. This leads to warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold and turbine housing.
18. Non genuine oil filter. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car.
19. Retro-fitted boost gauges. Cars fitted with a boost gauge tend to have had the boost pressure increased.
20. Compressor wheel lift. Movement of the turbocharger’s rotating shaft, up and down, is an indication of turbo bearing wear.
21. Rubbing compressor wheel marks. If you can get the owners permission to remove the air filter hose, check signs of the rotating compressor wheel making contact with or rubbing the housing. This indicates excessive wear in the turbo bearings and means a turbo rebuild is imminent.
22. Actuator hose cracked or split. This will cause over-boost.
23. Intercooler damaged or split. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
24. Rubbing or split Intercooler hoses. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
25. Oil feed hose leaking. May lead to turbo oil starvation and eventual failure.
26. Oil drain hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the turbo oil return will lead to leaking turbo seals and blue oil smoke from the exhaust.
27. Breather hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the breather pipes or hoses may cause blue oil smoke from the exhaust.
28. Breather system "one-way" valve sticking. Can cause blue exhaust oil smoke.
29. Uprated or non genuine exhaust system. Reducing the exhaust back pressure with a free flow exhaust system can cause oil leakage from the turbo oil seals, leading to blue exhaust oil smoke.

Next comes the road test. Check the following...............

1. Whistling noise on acceleration. Turbo imbalance or air leak.
2. Rubbing noise on acceleration. Turbo bearings badly worn.
3. Poor performance. Low boost caused by defective turbo, wastegate mechanism or air leak.
4. Too much performance. Over boost may be due to an incorrectly adjusted or defective wastegate.
5. Hesitation - violent. This condition can be experienced when accelerating hard. The boost pressure exceeds a nominal value, leading to over boost (a safety cut out switch). The problem may be caused by a defective wastegate.
6. Hesitation - holding back. Engine mixture weak, or air restriction.
7. Pinking or detonation under load. Incorrect ignition setting, poor quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a poorly maintained engine.
8. Blue smoke under hard acceleration. Engine wear or defective breather system.
9. Blue smoke under deceleration. Engine wear.

Now whilst the engine is at normal operating temperature, leave the engine idling for 10 minutes. Check the following..................

1. Blue oil smoke at idle. Defective turbo seals, excessive bearing wear, defective breather system or restricted turbo oil drain system.
2. Black smoke at idle. Worn diesel injection pump or injectors or excessive over-fuelling.
3. White smoke at idle. Engine damage, cracked cylinder head or head gasket failure. Very rarely caused by a damaged turbocharger.



-CC

BostonDuce

The COA can be only loosely trusted as a record of the OE on the car. Best to decode the build sticker.

BD

PS. If you're getting a manual, I trust you got a print of the type 1 and 2 overrevs.
I've even seen evidence of these on tip cars, although I couldn't see how it could happen.

BostonDuce

oops< sorry I see you got the overrevs covered.
BD

Carlo_Carrera

Hello, would a 996TT have overrevs if it has a Trip. trans?