Sport Seat Project
03-15-2006 | 06:20 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Sport Seat Project
I just ordered a set of sport seats with the plastic backs. I wanted to see if I could do two things:
1) Paint the seatbacks AS - how do they disassemble?
2) Convert to full power - I currently have supple full leather seats, the new sport seats have power backs and manual seat, can I some how retrofit the power front/back mechanism?
Thanks in advance!!
1) Paint the seatbacks AS - how do they disassemble?
2) Convert to full power - I currently have supple full leather seats, the new sport seats have power backs and manual seat, can I some how retrofit the power front/back mechanism?
Thanks in advance!!
03-16-2006 | 09:26 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,975
Likes: 4
From: tampa florida
Mine are the same color as my car. My "car guy" says can be done without much problem. He also had my center console painted the same color, looks perfect and was only $150.
guess you just need to find the right local talent. then get some matching seat belts!!
guess you just need to find the right local talent. then get some matching seat belts!!
03-16-2006 | 10:33 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 862
Likes: 68
From: Santa Rosa Beach Florida
I have the same exact set up going on - - currently have full power supple and purchased semi-power sport seats.
My thought, though as yet unrealized but 'doable', is to remove Sport Seat back only (separates at hinge point) and mount that atop my current full power seat bottoms in place. Mechanic say doable but 3-4 hrs.
Merely offering an alternate idea for you. I've had no time to get this done lately but will let you know if/when I pursue.
My thought, though as yet unrealized but 'doable', is to remove Sport Seat back only (separates at hinge point) and mount that atop my current full power seat bottoms in place. Mechanic say doable but 3-4 hrs.
Merely offering an alternate idea for you. I've had no time to get this done lately but will let you know if/when I pursue.
03-18-2006 | 01:13 PM
#7
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
I've disassembled and painted my Sport Seat backs.
In brief it goes like this.
leave them in the car if they are there....otherwise leave them out.
Don't seperate the upright backs from the base of the seat assy, it won't help....the base is a nice -holding fixture for the back.
All of what I'm about to explain applys to the upright part of the seat....none of it to the base.
- Start by removing the center cousion....it wraps down and under the back and keys into the very bottom of the plastic back. Press and squeeze it down from the front until you can get the leather wrapped tube out of the groove in the base of the plastic back. Then it just peels forward and unhooks from the front/top.
- Now you'll see that the leather bolster/top piece is pulled back inside the center of the seat and clips into a number of metal tabs on the frame....compress the foam with one hand, to get slack at the clip and disconnect all around. Careful not to rip the fabric here. The metal clips on the frame are a bit of a one-way device. I think I just use large needle nose pliers to open them up, and then straighted them out before reassembly to save the more fragile fabric.
- Now with the leather bolster loose all around, you can work it's leather bead out of the groove all around the outer edge of the plastic seat back, and remove that whole piece of leather.
- Next remove all the foam. (or maybe even before you remove the leather in the prior step.)
- Now everything is screwed together mechanically....straight forward.
- Reverse all to re-assemble.
One lesson I learned is that I should have treated these backs as thought thery were flexibile bumpers for the selection of primer and flex-piant. I used regular body materials and some cracks are showing up, they are a bit fragile. Some of the edges around the release **** slots on the upper sides of the plastic and some of the lower edges around the hinge areas, should be rounded (from the sharp factory edges) too, to make the paint less stressed at these otherwise sharp corner edges. I'll end up doing mine agian for these lessons. But the look great anyway.
email me if you need more insight. Plan on a few hours to get them apart, and vice versa to assemble; disassemble and prime on Sat. Finish coat on sunday....polished and re-assemble the following week end. 4 light days of work.....but worth it. I did my console, center dash surround and Butterfly all in the same 4 days. It looks really great.
On all of these plastic pieces.....CAREFUL, they are all coated with a thin film plastic/rubber coating. Best not to try and remove it.....or sand it...or disturb it....just get a fast, 2-part primer and lay a light coat on to seal it in. Let that first coat dry all the way. Then go heavy, and fix all/any flaws in the primer never breaking through. Because it's easy to let the solvent "attack" this film, and then it shrivels up and you'll have a lot of work stripping to the base plastic....trust me. Mike
In brief it goes like this.
leave them in the car if they are there....otherwise leave them out.
Don't seperate the upright backs from the base of the seat assy, it won't help....the base is a nice -holding fixture for the back.
All of what I'm about to explain applys to the upright part of the seat....none of it to the base.
- Start by removing the center cousion....it wraps down and under the back and keys into the very bottom of the plastic back. Press and squeeze it down from the front until you can get the leather wrapped tube out of the groove in the base of the plastic back. Then it just peels forward and unhooks from the front/top.
- Now you'll see that the leather bolster/top piece is pulled back inside the center of the seat and clips into a number of metal tabs on the frame....compress the foam with one hand, to get slack at the clip and disconnect all around. Careful not to rip the fabric here. The metal clips on the frame are a bit of a one-way device. I think I just use large needle nose pliers to open them up, and then straighted them out before reassembly to save the more fragile fabric.
- Now with the leather bolster loose all around, you can work it's leather bead out of the groove all around the outer edge of the plastic seat back, and remove that whole piece of leather.
- Next remove all the foam. (or maybe even before you remove the leather in the prior step.)
- Now everything is screwed together mechanically....straight forward.
- Reverse all to re-assemble.
One lesson I learned is that I should have treated these backs as thought thery were flexibile bumpers for the selection of primer and flex-piant. I used regular body materials and some cracks are showing up, they are a bit fragile. Some of the edges around the release **** slots on the upper sides of the plastic and some of the lower edges around the hinge areas, should be rounded (from the sharp factory edges) too, to make the paint less stressed at these otherwise sharp corner edges. I'll end up doing mine agian for these lessons. But the look great anyway.
email me if you need more insight. Plan on a few hours to get them apart, and vice versa to assemble; disassemble and prime on Sat. Finish coat on sunday....polished and re-assemble the following week end. 4 light days of work.....but worth it. I did my console, center dash surround and Butterfly all in the same 4 days. It looks really great.
On all of these plastic pieces.....CAREFUL, they are all coated with a thin film plastic/rubber coating. Best not to try and remove it.....or sand it...or disturb it....just get a fast, 2-part primer and lay a light coat on to seal it in. Let that first coat dry all the way. Then go heavy, and fix all/any flaws in the primer never breaking through. Because it's easy to let the solvent "attack" this film, and then it shrivels up and you'll have a lot of work stripping to the base plastic....trust me. Mike