Day in a life of a 996TT motor build.
10-08-2004, 05:11 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by PorschePhD
Normally when I redo an engine things like seals, bearings, chains, ramps, circlips, rings, guides, seats, sometimes valves. The head work all depends on the condition. Other items that move or wear and are not in the category of cams (as long as the condition is good) get replaced. IN regards to major components and replacing, it depends on the goal. If you say I want "XXX" power then that too will steer the course of replacement. For a normal clean up job though the things listed above are a normal day.
What lead me to ask the question was the cam chain sprockets. I was wondering if they were new. But given that you replaced the chain I would think that you would also need to replace those too? Otherwise the chain would wear quickly I would think.
I can imagine that even on a straight rebuild, replacing all of these parts with stock items could get quite expensive. I imagine that when you refer to shoddy work that you are referring to attempting to keep parts that probably shouldn't be kept so as to save money?
Anyway, thanx for the info Stephen.
Stephen
10-08-2004, 10:00 PM
#32
Rennlist Lifetime Member
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Stephen,
Not in every case. It depends on the goal and the HP you will be making. That and the headstuds follow the same order.
You are correct as long as crank, cams valves etc are in spec we reuse them. We also will clean mag and micro polish the crank.
Once again, if there is wear on the sprockets, yes they are replaced. The older cars normally get replaced along with the ramps, dowels, idlers etc.
That and those that use the wrong seal, silicone, mismatch bolts, don't spec and so on. I have seen so many hack jobs from people the stores would keep you laughing for hours.
Not in every case. It depends on the goal and the HP you will be making. That and the headstuds follow the same order.
You are correct as long as crank, cams valves etc are in spec we reuse them. We also will clean mag and micro polish the crank.
Once again, if there is wear on the sprockets, yes they are replaced. The older cars normally get replaced along with the ramps, dowels, idlers etc.
That and those that use the wrong seal, silicone, mismatch bolts, don't spec and so on. I have seen so many hack jobs from people the stores would keep you laughing for hours.
10-09-2004, 12:28 AM
#33
Burning Brakes
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I really appreciate the time you've put into this thread and answering my questions. This has to be one of the most enjoyable and educational threads I have read in a very long time. Thank you Stephen!
Stephen
Stephen
10-10-2004, 07:22 PM
#35
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Thread Starter
There are various sensor and solenoids that will need to be reinstalled. Below is the solenoid that adjusts the oil pressure to the variocam. This is the upper sprocket that will lock in and out causing the car to jump 25 degrees on mechanical cam timing.
It housing location is on top of the cam housing. Install a new oring and seat. I always recommend a little silicone paste, not glue around the o’rings.
Next is the tappet locking solenoid. This is the unit that allows oil pressure to flow to allow the tappets in to change profile from 3 to 10mm lift.
Its installed location is in the middle of the valve cover.
.
Also in the in the scope of sensors is the hall effect sensor. The intake cam has a wheel located on it that allows the car’s ECU to count where the cam is location wise. This used with various other sensors will establish the ability to run sequential fuel injection.
Knock sensors placed in location on top of the cylinder bank
Next reinstall the water pipes under the cylinder head. Once again use new orings.
It housing location is on top of the cam housing. Install a new oring and seat. I always recommend a little silicone paste, not glue around the o’rings.
Next is the tappet locking solenoid. This is the unit that allows oil pressure to flow to allow the tappets in to change profile from 3 to 10mm lift.
Its installed location is in the middle of the valve cover.
.
Also in the in the scope of sensors is the hall effect sensor. The intake cam has a wheel located on it that allows the car’s ECU to count where the cam is location wise. This used with various other sensors will establish the ability to run sequential fuel injection.
Knock sensors placed in location on top of the cylinder bank
Next reinstall the water pipes under the cylinder head. Once again use new orings.
10-10-2004, 07:23 PM
#36
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Thread Starter
Next you will want to install the front support for the hydraulic pump and alternator. You may want to install water pipes that are on the inlet of the cylinder assembly at the same time.
Sure hope you took the time to look at the original routing of the lines. This is not the easiest thing to recall. Route the lines to the slave cylinder so that the runners on the left bank catch and hold the lines. Go over the oil filter console and under and around to the pump. There a few clips along the way. If you are doing it right then the lines should hit the clips. I suggest the factory manuals for routing or detail drawings/pictures.
Install the fuel line to the fuel cooler in the manner you see below. It has to be this direction in order to fit.
Next install the water lines that run to the pump and console. These become brittle with heat so careful.
Next prep and install gasket and injector blocks.
Install new orings and clips and install injectors and rails.
Notice the fuel line in the rear of the rail. That runs to the front of the right rail. Install these as well as the rear line from the FPR to the fuel cooler.
At this point double check all your hose clamps and install the air pump lines from the switch over valve to the left injector block runner.
Now lay the harness in the general location. Once again it is obvious ( to me at least) what Porsche has in mind. There are only a few clips here and there. If you have it right you will hit them without stress. If you don’t then you will know it.
Sure hope you took the time to look at the original routing of the lines. This is not the easiest thing to recall. Route the lines to the slave cylinder so that the runners on the left bank catch and hold the lines. Go over the oil filter console and under and around to the pump. There a few clips along the way. If you are doing it right then the lines should hit the clips. I suggest the factory manuals for routing or detail drawings/pictures.
Install the fuel line to the fuel cooler in the manner you see below. It has to be this direction in order to fit.
Next install the water lines that run to the pump and console. These become brittle with heat so careful.
Next prep and install gasket and injector blocks.
Install new orings and clips and install injectors and rails.
Notice the fuel line in the rear of the rail. That runs to the front of the right rail. Install these as well as the rear line from the FPR to the fuel cooler.
At this point double check all your hose clamps and install the air pump lines from the switch over valve to the left injector block runner.
Now lay the harness in the general location. Once again it is obvious ( to me at least) what Porsche has in mind. There are only a few clips here and there. If you have it right you will hit them without stress. If you don’t then you will know it.
10-10-2004, 07:24 PM
#37
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Thread Starter
This is where my nice clean looking motor goes to hell.
Reconnect all the sensors and wires to their locations.
Once completed reinstall the oil tank and lines. Then the air smog pump. You must install the tank first.
Install turbos and turbo vent lines.
Next prep the spark plugs with anti-seize on the threads
Install the plugs.
Torque plugs to 22ft lbs.
Next install coil packs and torque to 7.5 ft lbs
Reinstall heat shield
Now ready the clutch and tranny and install in the car. I probably will not follow the rest of the in car install. If anyone has any questions please let me know.
Reconnect all the sensors and wires to their locations.
Once completed reinstall the oil tank and lines. Then the air smog pump. You must install the tank first.
Install turbos and turbo vent lines.
Next prep the spark plugs with anti-seize on the threads
Install the plugs.
Torque plugs to 22ft lbs.
Next install coil packs and torque to 7.5 ft lbs
Reinstall heat shield
Now ready the clutch and tranny and install in the car. I probably will not follow the rest of the in car install. If anyone has any questions please let me know.
10-17-2004, 10:46 PM
#43
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Thread Starter
Here is the completed picture installed and after the first oil change. I normally run new bearings for a 100 miles then dump the oil and do it again. Before start up I pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the motor over until pressure shows on the gauge. This preoils all of the lines. I then will do it again until oil comes out of the drip tanks from the turbos. You must undo the drains for this. This procedure does two things, keeps the bearings from being run dry even for a second. I do use prelube, but why risk it? It also preoils the turbo to ensure good life. Put the fuse in and crank it up and enjoy.
10-19-2004, 10:51 PM
#45
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Thread Starter
No time soon. I will finish up the dyno work out of state. Brakes and suspension are on. We have the safety equipment to but in and the graphics and it is out of here. Hopefully when I get back we will have our own dyno in the new building.