Hey everyone,

I’ve been having an intermittent issue with the frunk on my 2002 996 Turbo. Hoping someone here has seen this before.

Issue:

When I try to open the frunk using the interior switch or key fob, I can hear the actuator making a noise like it’s engaging, but the latch doesn’t release. This happens occasionally — sometimes it works just fine, other times it won’t open at all.

What I’ve done so far:

• Replaced the frunk actuator with a new unit.
• Tested the actuator using a Power Probe, and it pulls with noticeably more force than when it’s activated through the car’s system.

Given this, it seems like the actuator isn’t getting full power when triggered by the car. Could it be a weak ground, wiring issue, or something in the control module? Has anyone dealt with low voltage going to the actuator or had similar symptoms?

Appreciate any insight!

 

How new is your battery?

 

Can’t speak to the issue other than adjusting the latch or hood bumpers, but suggest now is a great time to ensure your emergency cable release is functional and perhaps re-route it to a more convenient location like behind the side marker.

 

I would lubricate everything.

 

This^

I had discovered that the PO of my 2001 Cab had some rodent camping in the frunk and it long ago decided to chew through a bit of the wiring insulation. Eventually the wire broke and the electric release wouldn't work. Thank God I had removed the front bumper to clean the radiators and moved the emergency cable to an accessible location. So, you might want to peel back the frunk liner on the drivers side and check the wiring. I removed the entire liner and cleaned everything up, sliced the wires and all was good again.

 

>>perhaps re-route it to a more convenient location like behind the side marker.<<

Wish I had heard about this method back a few weeks ago when I had the front end off cleaning the radiators! The stock cable will reach all the way over to the side marker? That angle would probably work even better than the stock location that has to make a pretty severe bend.

 

So I recently had similar intermittent issues with the front trunk switch on the driver side sill. The switch would click but not open the trunk all the time. Thinking it's just a simple switch, I swapped it for the decklid one and it sill popped the decklid?? Weird. So rather than spend $100 on a new switch, I took it apart. It's just a simple relay, with a small circuit board on top. The solder points on top of the board get weak I guess over time and mine were slightly (very slightly) cracking around the top, very hard to see. I cleaned off the solder and re-soldered the board and now the switch works perfect! It's like instant now too, really quick action.

It's worth a shot to check yours.

 

I added an extra bit of length to the cable using wire rope. If you don’t have a swager tool for crimping, a heavy fishing leader might work as well. I did this years ago, but remember the stock location requiring a lot of force due to the bends in the cable routing you mention—so much I thought something might break. The side marker placement did reduce that quite a bit. I forget exactly how, but I was able to reroute without removing the bumper.

 

Since I had the winter debacle of having my truck inaccessible, the cable routes with a little bullet connector through the latch. I pulled on mine as hard as I could and it would not move. The little barrel had become dislodged from the spot it rests.

I removed the factory cable setup and went to Lowes and got some nice vinyl coated cable. I cut the original and re-routed the new with a long loop right behind the passenger side marker. Zip tie the extra to the rad mounting brackets. If you ever get stuck now, just pop the right marker light out and pull the cable.