Turbodan

had my car on a hoist and it looks like the front differential is leaking. the mechanic said they replace the seals frequently on these cars. Also my front cv boots are torn. any thoughts on the seals and level of difficulty to change these out? I often do diy but not much time so thinking to give the work to a shop.
car is driving amazing btw!

Carlo_Carrera

Yes, leaking front differential flange seals are a very common issue. Not sure how easy they are to DIY. I had a shop do mine 12 years ago. Only a couple of hours of labor and like $40 for the seals. As far as the leaking CV boots. I just fixed mine by replacing both complete axles. I bought a pair of these. DIY took like four hours to swap them both out.

https://www.partsgeek.com/jtxbmbq-po...caAjwlEALw_wcB

Scrh1

For the front diff I used this kit and have had zero issues since.

https://www.speeddensitymotorsports....000-2013-awd-1

for the cv boots and such I did a full axle replacement with the boots for ease of install and no mess. Eeuroparts had the best axle prices when I bought them a year ago. Not sure anymore.


- scrh1

Third-Reef

I have had good luck with putting a couple of ounces of the LUCAS power steering stop leak in. Worked on the my spoiler lift seals for 4 yeas before I did the electric upgrade and it worked on my transmission that has a super slow weep. I think it swells the seal just a little

911 Rod

Danny you won't have a problem changing out the boots. There are a couple of write-ups here on how to do it. Don't be like me and change just the torn one. Change both on the axel so you don't have to change the other one a year later.

993GT

Hey Danny, if you feel like driving my way to pick-up, I can supply new boots and seals ...new oem CV shafts aren't too horribly priced too if the joints have seen better days

QwikKotaTX

The axle flanges on the tranny are held in with a bolt. The fronts are different. I see in the manual where there is a snap ring but that looks to be internal. There are threads talking about applying a quick force to pop them out of the diff but I would dig deeper to verify in order to avoid damage.

Turbodan

thanks guys for the input. I may try the lucas stop leak, and see if that works. and probably just change out the axles. thanks for the offer Rob. I will take a drive out to see you one day soon...be nice to catch up and see your GT2 again

Third-Reef

I have a torn front right outer CV but its the smallest (closest to the axel) convolution so it is not slinging lots of grease yet. I am going to replace both front axels with low cost replacements. They don't do much so i am ok with low cost ones. Rears would be another matter. Parts Geek has both for less than 200$

168Sierra

Changing the front differential seals is not difficult. Remove wheels. Remove under tray. Remove the front drive shafts (Axle nuts are one time use so get a new pair, tighten to 340 ft lbs). Drain the front differential fluid, (make sure to loosen the fill plug before draining the oil). The front drive shaft flanges in the differential have internal snap rings. The flanges are removed by pulling them out with a sharp motion. Then remove the old seals and tap in new seals until they are flush with the housing. Rub a little grease on the ID of the seals. Replace the flanges by Inserting them into the differential and then sharply push them in and you will hear/feel the snap ring engage. Refill the differential (approx 1.5 qts). Reinstall the front drained shaft (CV joint bolts 30 ft lbs, axle nuts 340 ft lbs). Replace under tray. Replace front wheels (torque lug bolts to 96 ft lbs) and you are done. Easy to do on a lift but I have done them on my Turbo using jack stands.

CV joint boot replacement: remove clamps on covers. Slide oute joint cover back. In the center of the joint there is an internal snap ring. Expand the snap ring with a set of snap ring pliers and then tap the inner race off the shaft. Remove both boot covers. Clean the joints. Replace the grease with the proper CV joint grease. Slide new inner boot onto the drive shaft and down to the CV joint. Put new CV joint boot clamps on o the drive shaft. Install the outer CV joint boot onto the shaft. Re-install the outer joint onto the shaft until the snap ring engages in the groove. Grease the outer CV joint. Slide the Outer boot out until it is in position on the outer CV joint. Install clamps.

Good luck with your repairs
Mark

Turbodan

I ordered new front axles (cheap enough) and got the Lucas power steering leak stop. I haven't had a chance to look at it or shop manual but do you just remove bottom covers and see a fill hole? Also I assume I should I take some out if the level is near the fill hole? thanks in advance

docwyte

I wouldn't run stop leak in anything I cared to keep. Either fix it right, or just leave it alone and monitor the leak, filling it with proper fluid when needed.

Bernard IV

It's easier to drop the the whole diff out of the car than it is to uninstall the drive shafts.

Bernard IV

Yes they pop in and out easily. The snap ring stays in place.

QwikKotaTX

Such an odd design. Usually a snap ring is behind a smaller opening and requires removing it before pulling out the shaft. The tranny output flanges with the bolt in the middle makes more sense.