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So, I've known about the issues with the rear spoiler and hydraulic issues. Well, now mine is starting to have issues and will sometimes not come down, and also get the dash error. I've read through a number of posts, and still don't seem to have an answer. Should I fix, or just go with the E Rams? I know this topic has been beat to death, and I apologize for starting another. Mine doesn't always fail. Just occasionally.
While it is occasionally failing now, it will eventually fail entierly. It all depends if you find value in "keeping it stock" or not. ERams are an effective solution, but if you want to keep it stock, have it rebuilt by DH Automotive in Belguim. I just reinstalled my system from them and was very happy with their service and how they rebuild it to be more robust. GL. Jeremy
Thank you for the advice. So, what exactly fails on these? Is there a writeup somewhere on the removal process? There are so many posts to try to get through.
There are write ups, there are a lot of posts. If it is occasionally failing you could disconnect it for now (which you can also find via search). It will stay down and get rid of the dash light until you make a decision on which path you want to pursue. I chose eram because I daily my car so it's not important that it's as it was from the factory. I kept the original parts in the event of a future sale to appease those that think it's important. Welcome to the very non exclusive club of failing rams.
Thank you for the advice. So, what exactly fails on these? Is there a writeup somewhere on the removal process? There are so many posts to try to get through.
The seals in the rams will leak, the blocks in the pump can crack, the micro switches can fail, etc. There are a few reasons they fail, leaky seals can be detected if there is any presence of pentosin at the bottom of the ram(s). If one
of the blocks cracked, you’ll have to disassemble the pump to see. Problem with that is, it’s hard to find just those blocks.
It’s an over engineered system for what it does.
Thank you for the advice. So, what exactly fails on these? Is there a writeup somewhere on the removal process? There are so many posts to try to get through.
Removal is pretty straightforward. Remove all the bolts on the fan shroud, there’s 4 nuts that hold the pump to the shroud. 4 tiny screws that hold the micro switch holder to the passenger ram and 3 Allen screws which hold each ram to the deck lid.
1st though you have to remove the wing and use a spanner wrench to twist the cylinders to release the wing. Don’t use a pliers as that will scratch the chrome cylinders.
Mine was "failing " worse than yours, but a drain and proper re-fill, along with new copper sealing washers ($12.00 for a bag @ belmtetric.com) was all it needed. It you don't have visible leaks, I would give that a shot. I did everything off-car, the ultimate way to do it in my opinion. It has worked flawlessly for years now. Find my posts & pictures if interested. I wanted to retain the factory system.
Mine was "failing " worse than yours, but a drain and proper re-fill, along with new copper sealing washers ($12.00 for a bag @ belmtetric.com) was all it needed. It you don't have visible leaks, I would give that a shot. I did everything off-car, the ultimate way to do it in my opinion. It has worked flawlessly for years now. Find my posts & pictures if interested. I wanted to retain the factory system.
Thanks. No visible leaks anywhere. I'll search a bit more for your post. It must be in one of the "What did you do to your 996 Today" threads. I want to keep it stock.
There are definitely some failure modes that can be a hassle to fix, but often they need nothing more than a fluid top off and bench bleed to remove air from the system and they will return to functioning perfectly for many more years. What often happens is just a bit of air in the system causes them to raise/drop slightly out of sync or not extend fully, which then causes them to fault. A quick bleed will often have them back to factory performance, I've done this with several sets and all of them are still operating great. If you have badly leaking seals or cracked plastic parts, that can also be fixed but it's a bit more hassle and not as easy to source parts.
It costs almost nothing to bleed them... A can of Pentosin 11S fluid and four new crush washers (new crush washers optional), like $30. IMHO, worth a try if you are handy. While it is definitely not difficult, you might need just a bit more mechanical ability to do this vs.just replacing with the e-rams.
Below is the info from the factory manual... In actuality, I find it is easier than this... retract the rams, undo the banjo bolts, fill the cylinders with pentosin, redo the banjo bolts, submerge the ram banjo one-by-one under a cup of pentosin, loosen banjo bolts again and cycle the pistons in and out to bleed any extra air, tighten banjo bolts. Then test it all on the workbench and make sure they are traveling equally and fully. Might take a try or two to master the technique, but really not very difficult.
12-17-2022, 01:08 PM
Rear Spoiler Issue
