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Keep the stock brakes but add good fluid like SRF or Endless RF650 along with better brake cooling ducts. No such thing as a dual purpose street/track pad, will be mediocre for both. Great track pads are PFC08/11 or Ferodo DS3.12. I wouldn’t worry about the bigger 6 piston calipers. Won’t get you anything over the stock calipers at the entry/intermediate level but will give you some added bling. The 350 rotors with spacers is a cheap upgrade and will give you some extra thermal mass with the downside of a bit more unstrung mass.
Last edited by powdrhound; 04-24-2022 at 09:42 PM.
stock pads suck at heat if pushed. go pfc 11 and 8s. they work great with stock setup.
if you need to change the rotors, might as well go bigger. if too thin, change em out. if cracks connect the holes or to the outside change it up.
Just a note, PFC08/11's are full on track pads, you don't want to use them on the street. You'll want to swap them off for street pads after your event, which is what I do
Just a note, PFC08/11's are full on track pads, you don't want to use them on the street. You'll want to swap them off for street pads after your event, which is what I do
Looks like I am goong to be changing pads before track days which is something I wanted to avoid.
Maybe I just get some oem textars for the street and swap to track pads the night before. Probably a good time to give the calipers a quick bleed too. A couple of questions:
1. To make pads changes easier, does everyone just leave off the vibration dampers so you can pull pads out without pulling caliper? Will the OEM pads squeal with no dampers?
2. Will i have any issues bedding race pads and then bedding OEM pads again?
3. Will i be okay to drive to and from the track on the race pads?
depends how you use your car. I used to leave pfcs in during summer and between tracks days. just remember to let heat up and they are squeally...and expensive.
350mm rotors and caliper spacers is a no brainer, no real downside. Plus they really fill out the wheels. Then hold you nose and shell out for the Gt2/cup brake ducts F&R. That plus PCF 08/11 and fluid RBF600 or better is about all you can do without spending many thousand$. If that’s not enough, at least most of your investment in the ducts will continue to benefit going forward.
Thanks for all of this great advice. A couple more questions
1. No one here sells the slotted sebro rotors which means they will cost me twice the price of drilled sebros because freight from the US is very expensive. I am thinking of just using drilled sebros. Would that be a mistake?
2. Is the purpose of using 8 compound on the front and 11 on the back to give a bit more rear bias?
They are a little pricy but the Brembo GT 6P front 4P rear with 3 piece rotors has been very good on my car. Great at the track, very streetable, hardly ever squeal, pads seem to last for ever and light. They were on my car when i purchased it. I would probably not spring for the almost $10 K for the full Front/rear kit
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2. Yes more rear bias, PFC 11 on the front, 8 in the rear.
I ran the opposite, 08 in front since the 08 are the more durable pad, and still wore them much faster than the rears. Definitely would not pay 2x for slotted rotors. They may not crack as fast but not 1/2 as fast. My one experience with their slotted was not good…melted a set of Pagid yellows in a weekend onto the disk ruining both. Slotted seem to hold more heat. I may have got a bad batch of pads combined with fast but not very good driver and track that is hard on brakes, but after that experience I stuck with drilled rotors and switched to Pfc with no more issues.
PFC brake dust + water = pitted finish on the wheels over time. If you like your wheels to look pretty, keep that in mind.
I've club raced for over 25 years and PFCs have always been the best for sprint and enduro racing. When I occasionally took the 996tt to the track over the years, I found StopTech Street Performance pads to work very well with Ate type200 fluid on and off the track, and this setup did not require changing out pads before/after track events.
I ran my 6TT on the track with stock calipers and rotors with good PFC pads and fluid - and it worked fine.
Then I upgraded to 997 Turbo rotors and caliper spacers all around, mostly to get slotted instead of drilled rotors. Still using stock calipers and the PFC pads with good fluid. It was also fine, easy to do, and relatively cheap. Even after a 30 minute session at Lime Rock I could easily brake into ABS action, never even a hint of brake fade.
This year I have installed 997TT 6-pot front calipers and 997TT rear calipers with a 997TT master cylinder, still using the 997TT rotors. I can't get all the air out, been trying for weeks, so I have not driven it yet.
For occasional DE use I think the stock calipers with good pads is plenty. Depends somewhat on your track, how fast you go, etc. On the short tracks here where speeds are relatively low it's certainly plenty.
Do get the 997 GT3 front brake spoilers. The best $12 upgrade you can make!
Excellent advice above...
My opinions, others surely will vary
.:
Fresh high temp fluid is key for track use. i like SRF for a street car that sees some track time.
Proper track pads will make a far bigger impact for fast track driving than any caliper or rotor upgrade. i like Performance Friction compound 8.
Cooling ducts are also an overlooked, important upgrade. The GT3 ducts are cheap and effective. The RS ducts are expensive and even more effective.
Even stock pads will work ok for an occasional track day unless you are doing pretty aggressive braking and pushing for quick lap times. At that point, they kind of become an obvious weak point. I know I'm exceeding the limits of my stock pads when I get things hot enough to induce some braking judder.
If you want an upgrade beyond pads and fluid, 997 Turbo 350mm slotted rotors with spacers and stock calipers is very cost effective.
04-24-2022 | 09:02 AM
