996CTSR race build....
#211
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I do like the Markski solution that has the air filters above the ICs, however, not a fan of cutting the liners as you have noted, will likely ingest all kinds of crap.
#212
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The pipes there on that set up limit the size of the rear wheel / tire combo. Butchering the intercooler ducting is a bad idea and stealing the air from the intercooler is too.
#213
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Agreed - thinking that the other solution is a better fit all around.
#214
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I opted to leave my intercooler ducts unmolested with my fender intakes. I technically get air pulled up from the road/under the turbos but my logs show that my IATs are just fine. I have water socks on my filters but they do get VERY dirty and I have to clean the filters every 3000 miles or so, which is only once a year with the amount I drive the car so I don't mind it. I wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver though. I plan to ditch the fender intakes for something that moves the filters back into the engine compartment at some point, probably a hybrid of the soft tube and hard tube pipes that follow the OEM path.
#215
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Just went looking for the tube on the EVOMS site - they no longer seem to be available.
The FVD solution looks appealing in that it can be installed without removing the engine - cannot tell if the tubes are 2.5" like the Markski ones.
That's a lot of crud Darrick, for only three thousand miles,
The FVD solution looks appealing in that it can be installed without removing the engine - cannot tell if the tubes are 2.5" like the Markski ones.
That's a lot of crud Darrick, for only three thousand miles,
#216
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I keep my 6" K&N cone filter in the engine bay. With good intercoolers, gold DEI tape, (recognizing that plastic heats up slower than AL, but metal will shed heat quicker than plastic) I see IATS of 10-20 over ambient.
Those markski pipes are just SCAT tubing if I'm not mistaken. They work well and are durable, but I'd prefer a solid setup like the EVOms stuff.
Those markski pipes are just SCAT tubing if I'm not mistaken. They work well and are durable, but I'd prefer a solid setup like the EVOms stuff.
#217
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Just went looking for the tube on the EVOMS site - they no longer seem to be available.
The FVD solution looks appealing in that it can be installed without removing the engine - cannot tell if the tubes are 2.5" like the Markski ones.
That's a lot of crud Darrick, for only three thousand miles,
The FVD solution looks appealing in that it can be installed without removing the engine - cannot tell if the tubes are 2.5" like the Markski ones.
That's a lot of crud Darrick, for only three thousand miles,
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1861x839/efde77e2_ecf7_4c9d_9c49_6c2295a39750_1_201_a_40f4f00be7b108a0519fef4266117050fbacffd7.jpeg)
Last edited by powdrhound; 10-26-2022 at 01:51 AM.
#218
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That is most impressive, however, I thought the stock rods were really only good for 650hp?
My napkin math suggests this is somewhere in the 750hp (crank) range, but by God, that AFR is almost perfect!
My napkin math suggests this is somewhere in the 750hp (crank) range, but by God, that AFR is almost perfect!
#219
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#220
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Understood - a little more specific - at 1.3 bar, I would have expected to torque value to be higher at that HP level - again napkin math, but that should be somewhere around 650ft/lbs at the crank. How does he (or anyone) bleed off the torque at that power level? Convention suggests less air would do it, but, 1.3 bar is a fair amount of air.
#222
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Our ducts are available here, including with options to pay to have us modify your core or to do it yourself: http://www.evoms.com/Porsche_Turbo_T...kfaid996tt.htm. They are in stock!
We JUST got filters and venturis back in stock (they were backordered for more than a year due to manufacturing issues) for our intakes. I am still waiting to receive Bosch MAF housings in to complete the bolt-on 996TT V-Flow, but if anyone is running MAFless or wants to run our Hitachi software, I do have Hitachi housings available and can come up with a plug for the sensor port to allow the rest of the intake to be used. The V-Flow and our inlet ducts work well up to at least 700whp based on recent testing; in the past we have used them up to 850whp though I believe the filter and OEM upper duct are out of their league at that point. Performance vs. compromises of use and installation, I think they are a solid solution for that power level compared to the alternatives.
Sorry to anyone who has had a poor experience with us for the last couple of years. Between the pandemic, a move, and some personal issues on my part there have been a lot of bad bounces especially related to having parts available. I had to lay off a couple of full time staff and take a giant load onto myself during this period due to the losses of revenue from the backorders and the investment required to retool and restock our product line--frankly, I've done a far from perfect job of customer service throughout that situation. But my team and I have worked really hard to get most of our really solid, proven parts like our 996TT kits back into production and the higher volume items reliably stocked on the shelf. While that is still a work in progress, big parts of that plan have been completed and we're on to things like bringing on more support, revamping our website, and designing/testing/producing some new products and kits even for the 996TT.
Sam
We JUST got filters and venturis back in stock (they were backordered for more than a year due to manufacturing issues) for our intakes. I am still waiting to receive Bosch MAF housings in to complete the bolt-on 996TT V-Flow, but if anyone is running MAFless or wants to run our Hitachi software, I do have Hitachi housings available and can come up with a plug for the sensor port to allow the rest of the intake to be used. The V-Flow and our inlet ducts work well up to at least 700whp based on recent testing; in the past we have used them up to 850whp though I believe the filter and OEM upper duct are out of their league at that point. Performance vs. compromises of use and installation, I think they are a solid solution for that power level compared to the alternatives.
Sorry to anyone who has had a poor experience with us for the last couple of years. Between the pandemic, a move, and some personal issues on my part there have been a lot of bad bounces especially related to having parts available. I had to lay off a couple of full time staff and take a giant load onto myself during this period due to the losses of revenue from the backorders and the investment required to retool and restock our product line--frankly, I've done a far from perfect job of customer service throughout that situation. But my team and I have worked really hard to get most of our really solid, proven parts like our 996TT kits back into production and the higher volume items reliably stocked on the shelf. While that is still a work in progress, big parts of that plan have been completed and we're on to things like bringing on more support, revamping our website, and designing/testing/producing some new products and kits even for the 996TT.
Sam
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#223
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Great news! ^^^^^
#224
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Understood - a little more specific - at 1.3 bar, I would have expected to torque value to be higher at that HP level - again napkin math, but that should be somewhere around 650ft/lbs at the crank. How does he (or anyone) bleed off the torque at that power level? Convention suggests less air would do it, but, 1.3 bar is a fair amount of air.
There are several ways to limit the torque the engine makes across the rpm range, airflow is only part of the equation. If you're making too much torque, you can pull back the timing in that area. You can also use the throttle as a restrictor plate for lack of better terminology by closing it to a certain percentage- you will still have the same boost in the intake manifold, but the airflow going into the engine will be at lower cfm. I used both to create the shape of the torque curve I wanted. There's other ways too, but I think throttle control and timing are the ones most commonly used if not wanting to run less boost.
Staged boost targets is another commonly used method (1.0 bar at 4500, 1.1 bar at 5000, 1.2 bar at 5500, 1.3 bar at 6000+ for example) and I used that to a certain degree as well.
As with everything tuning/calibration related, it is a balancing act and takes iterations to get it how you want it, and there is no free lunch with any of the methods.