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Old 10-24-2022, 07:22 PM
  #211  
2fcknfst
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I do like the Markski solution that has the air filters above the ICs, however, not a fan of cutting the liners as you have noted, will likely ingest all kinds of crap.
Old 10-24-2022, 08:05 PM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
I do like the Markski solution that has the air filters above the ICs, however, not a fan of cutting the liners as you have noted, will likely ingest all kinds of crap.
The pipes there on that set up limit the size of the rear wheel / tire combo. Butchering the intercooler ducting is a bad idea and stealing the air from the intercooler is too.
Old 10-25-2022, 03:00 PM
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Agreed - thinking that the other solution is a better fit all around.
Old 10-25-2022, 03:38 PM
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I opted to leave my intercooler ducts unmolested with my fender intakes. I technically get air pulled up from the road/under the turbos but my logs show that my IATs are just fine. I have water socks on my filters but they do get VERY dirty and I have to clean the filters every 3000 miles or so, which is only once a year with the amount I drive the car so I don't mind it. I wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver though. I plan to ditch the fender intakes for something that moves the filters back into the engine compartment at some point, probably a hybrid of the soft tube and hard tube pipes that follow the OEM path.
Old 10-25-2022, 03:52 PM
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Just went looking for the tube on the EVOMS site - they no longer seem to be available.

The FVD solution looks appealing in that it can be installed without removing the engine - cannot tell if the tubes are 2.5" like the Markski ones.

That's a lot of crud Darrick, for only three thousand miles,
Old 10-25-2022, 04:22 PM
  #216  
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I keep my 6" K&N cone filter in the engine bay. With good intercoolers, gold DEI tape, (recognizing that plastic heats up slower than AL, but metal will shed heat quicker than plastic) I see IATS of 10-20 over ambient.

Those markski pipes are just SCAT tubing if I'm not mistaken. They work well and are durable, but I'd prefer a solid setup like the EVOms stuff.
Old 10-26-2022, 01:48 AM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Just went looking for the tube on the EVOMS site - they no longer seem to be available.

The FVD solution looks appealing in that it can be installed without removing the engine - cannot tell if the tubes are 2.5" like the Markski ones.

That's a lot of crud Darrick, for only three thousand miles,
The FVD set up works. I got a set for a local friend that runs a stock block 3.6 with XR1000s, the FVD intake, and a Kline 2.5 exhaust, catless I think. This is his dyno chart done on the exact same dyno that we use. Cobb tune at 1.3 bar. This is performance you simply won't get with any fancy K16 or K24 hybrid...





Last edited by powdrhound; 10-26-2022 at 01:51 AM.
Old 10-26-2022, 12:26 PM
  #218  
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That is most impressive, however, I thought the stock rods were really only good for 650hp?

My napkin math suggests this is somewhere in the 750hp (crank) range, but by God, that AFR is almost perfect!
Old 10-26-2022, 12:37 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
That is most impressive, however, I thought the stock rods were really only good for 650hp?

My napkin math suggests this is somewhere in the 750hp (crank) range, but by God, that AFR is almost perfect!
Hp does not bend rods. Torque does…
Old 10-26-2022, 01:06 PM
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Understood - a little more specific - at 1.3 bar, I would have expected to torque value to be higher at that HP level - again napkin math, but that should be somewhere around 650ft/lbs at the crank. How does he (or anyone) bleed off the torque at that power level? Convention suggests less air would do it, but, 1.3 bar is a fair amount of air.
Old 10-26-2022, 02:16 PM
  #221  
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I think the key factor for that car is that the torque doesn't peak until 5k rpm, which is much easier on the rods than if the peak was, say, 3500 rpm.
Old 10-26-2022, 03:40 PM
  #222  
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Our ducts are available here, including with options to pay to have us modify your core or to do it yourself: http://www.evoms.com/Porsche_Turbo_T...kfaid996tt.htm. They are in stock!

We JUST got filters and venturis back in stock (they were backordered for more than a year due to manufacturing issues) for our intakes. I am still waiting to receive Bosch MAF housings in to complete the bolt-on 996TT V-Flow, but if anyone is running MAFless or wants to run our Hitachi software, I do have Hitachi housings available and can come up with a plug for the sensor port to allow the rest of the intake to be used. The V-Flow and our inlet ducts work well up to at least 700whp based on recent testing; in the past we have used them up to 850whp though I believe the filter and OEM upper duct are out of their league at that point. Performance vs. compromises of use and installation, I think they are a solid solution for that power level compared to the alternatives.

Sorry to anyone who has had a poor experience with us for the last couple of years. Between the pandemic, a move, and some personal issues on my part there have been a lot of bad bounces especially related to having parts available. I had to lay off a couple of full time staff and take a giant load onto myself during this period due to the losses of revenue from the backorders and the investment required to retool and restock our product line--frankly, I've done a far from perfect job of customer service throughout that situation. But my team and I have worked really hard to get most of our really solid, proven parts like our 996TT kits back into production and the higher volume items reliably stocked on the shelf. While that is still a work in progress, big parts of that plan have been completed and we're on to things like bringing on more support, revamping our website, and designing/testing/producing some new products and kits even for the 996TT.

Sam
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Old 10-26-2022, 03:47 PM
  #223  
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Great news! ^^^^^
Old 10-26-2022, 04:32 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Understood - a little more specific - at 1.3 bar, I would have expected to torque value to be higher at that HP level - again napkin math, but that should be somewhere around 650ft/lbs at the crank. How does he (or anyone) bleed off the torque at that power level? Convention suggests less air would do it, but, 1.3 bar is a fair amount of air.
I made 711 whp @ 6800 rpm and 590 wtq @ 5600 rpm on the XR1000 turbos on stock engine and 92 octane fuel with just a little more boost (1.4 bar). I spent more time on the dyno trying to take power out than I did trying to optimize everything because the stock internals have their limitations and first baseline pull it was making substantially more power and torque than these numbers I ended on,

There are several ways to limit the torque the engine makes across the rpm range, airflow is only part of the equation. If you're making too much torque, you can pull back the timing in that area. You can also use the throttle as a restrictor plate for lack of better terminology by closing it to a certain percentage- you will still have the same boost in the intake manifold, but the airflow going into the engine will be at lower cfm. I used both to create the shape of the torque curve I wanted. There's other ways too, but I think throttle control and timing are the ones most commonly used if not wanting to run less boost.

Staged boost targets is another commonly used method (1.0 bar at 4500, 1.1 bar at 5000, 1.2 bar at 5500, 1.3 bar at 6000+ for example) and I used that to a certain degree as well.

As with everything tuning/calibration related, it is a balancing act and takes iterations to get it how you want it, and there is no free lunch with any of the methods.
Old 10-26-2022, 05:16 PM
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You guys and your free lunches.


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