Waking her up
11-08-2019, 09:18 PM
#61
RL Community Team
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11-09-2019, 01:36 AM
#63
RL Community Team
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You could tell I was just parked at a console, huh?
11-09-2019, 06:38 AM
#64
Drifting
Don't put a dime of money into body work on a car you intend to take to the track at all unless you also do full ppf. I don't a 1/10000th of the track time a lot of other guys do but what I can tell you from my limited experience is that its hell on the car's paint/body. Cost of doing business.
11-09-2019, 02:32 PM
#65
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
11-09-2019, 02:39 PM
#66
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Given a quality coilover set up, how important would you say are aftermarket sway bars?
11-09-2019, 02:56 PM
#67
RL Community Team
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I recommend the GMG bars. http://www.modbargains.com/gmg-racin...sche-996tt.htm
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HDA (11-10-2019)
11-09-2019, 05:54 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
Loved the car right away, got Kevin's tune and NT-01's and went to the track.
Car was equal pace to another 991s at that time w/equal driver.
Pads gone right away, installed RS29s, Motul RB660 (Endless or Brembo HTC waaay better and last all season), Front and rear LCAs, Dogbones, camber plates, more aggressive alignment, then ran it at the track for rest of the season. Car kept pace w/most everything at that time, other than Z06 and other big torque cars out of corners, but could often close gap under braking.
Somewhere in this thread someone said GT2 1/2/3 is not best bang for buck and not to open box until you need to. I strongly disagree with not opening the box until you need to.
I ran mine well into bearing noise and paid dearly for it. You'll end up replacing internals that could survive longer if bearings are loose and parts are moving around out of spec while under severe load.
The GT cars run a cooler for a good reason and the true state of most gearboxes is unknown until you open them.
To track these cars the preventative bearings/synchros/labor cost is a good idea, especially if you can R&R yourself.
Price out 3-5 gears, synchros ,and all the bearings then compare that to buying maybe half those parts if you went in earlier.
I agree the GT2 mod is not the best bang for $ but would put it 3rd after tune and exhaust. 4th is LSD if you leave the brakes for 5th or 6th place and are not counting short shifter/cheap stuff.
Ditching some weight is free.
.
11-09-2019, 06:00 PM
#69
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I did just the same, bought a car w/PSS10's and H&R rear sway bar already on it.
Loved the car right away, got Kevin's tune and NT-01's and went to the track.
Car was equal pace to another 991s at that time w/equal driver.
Pads gone right away, installed RS29s, Motul RB660 (Endless or Brembo HTC waaay better and last all season), Front and rear LCAs, Dogbones, camber plates, more aggressive alignment, then ran it at the track for rest of the season. Car kept pace w/most everything at that time, other than Z06 and other big torque cars out of corners, but could often close gap under braking.
Somewhere in this thread someone said GT2 1/2/3 is not best bang for buck and not to open box until you need to. I strongly disagree with not opening the box until you need to.
I ran mine well into bearing noise and paid dearly for it. You'll end up replacing internals that could survive longer if bearings are loose and parts are moving around out of spec while under severe load.
The GT cars run a cooler for a good reason and the true state of most gearboxes is unknown until you open them.
To track these cars the preventative bearings/synchros/labor cost is a good idea, especially if you can R&R yourself.
Price out 3-5 gears, synchros ,and all the bearings then compare that to buying maybe half those parts if you went in earlier.
I agree the GT2 mod is not the best bang for $ but would put it 3rd after tune and exhaust. 4th is LSD if you leave the brakes for 5th or 6th place and are not counting short shifter/cheap stuff.
Ditching some weight is free.
.
Loved the car right away, got Kevin's tune and NT-01's and went to the track.
Car was equal pace to another 991s at that time w/equal driver.
Pads gone right away, installed RS29s, Motul RB660 (Endless or Brembo HTC waaay better and last all season), Front and rear LCAs, Dogbones, camber plates, more aggressive alignment, then ran it at the track for rest of the season. Car kept pace w/most everything at that time, other than Z06 and other big torque cars out of corners, but could often close gap under braking.
Somewhere in this thread someone said GT2 1/2/3 is not best bang for buck and not to open box until you need to. I strongly disagree with not opening the box until you need to.
I ran mine well into bearing noise and paid dearly for it. You'll end up replacing internals that could survive longer if bearings are loose and parts are moving around out of spec while under severe load.
The GT cars run a cooler for a good reason and the true state of most gearboxes is unknown until you open them.
To track these cars the preventative bearings/synchros/labor cost is a good idea, especially if you can R&R yourself.
Price out 3-5 gears, synchros ,and all the bearings then compare that to buying maybe half those parts if you went in earlier.
I agree the GT2 mod is not the best bang for $ but would put it 3rd after tune and exhaust. 4th is LSD if you leave the brakes for 5th or 6th place and are not counting short shifter/cheap stuff.
Ditching some weight is free.
.
Bearing noise, ie, shafts slapping around within the bearings, or bearing failure?
Both sound unpleasant and expensive. Was this a function of the second gear pop out, or something else?
Cheers,
11-09-2019, 09:24 PM
#71
Rennlist Member
Started w/bearing noise after a couple of track outings @ ~60k on the box.
Then I went to the track several more times, and one day driving home from the track noticed the noise was significantly louder, that was at 64k.
Drove the car on the street a couple weeks more and at 65k I dropped the box and engine.
In hindsight, I would have taken Kevin's advice and parked it soon as it started making noise.
However it was still dry pavement in Seattle and I never bothered to check what he meant by expensive parts, figured it was just a transmission.
Having had several BMWs and fancy muscle car autos built I figured maybe a few-5Gs at most, haha.
If I had pulled it sooner, I could have saved a couple gears, retaining plate, bearings and synchros.
It was a great excuse to do the GT2 mod, all steel synchros and LSD $18 later
11-10-2019, 02:28 PM
#74
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Car never had any pop out issues for me but I bought it in March and had to rebuild trans in September.
Started w/bearing noise after a couple of track outings @ ~60k on the box.
Then I went to the track several more times, and one day driving home from the track noticed the noise was significantly louder, that was at 64k.
Drove the car on the street a couple weeks more and at 65k I dropped the box and engine.
In hindsight, I would have taken Kevin's advice and parked it soon as it started making noise.
However it was still dry pavement in Seattle and I never bothered to check what he meant by expensive parts, figured it was just a transmission.
Having had several BMWs and fancy muscle car autos built I figured maybe a few-5Gs at most, haha.
If I had pulled it sooner, I could have saved a couple gears, retaining plate, bearings and synchros.
It was a great excuse to do the GT2 mod, all steel synchros and LSD $18 later
Started w/bearing noise after a couple of track outings @ ~60k on the box.
Then I went to the track several more times, and one day driving home from the track noticed the noise was significantly louder, that was at 64k.
Drove the car on the street a couple weeks more and at 65k I dropped the box and engine.
In hindsight, I would have taken Kevin's advice and parked it soon as it started making noise.
However it was still dry pavement in Seattle and I never bothered to check what he meant by expensive parts, figured it was just a transmission.
Having had several BMWs and fancy muscle car autos built I figured maybe a few-5Gs at most, haha.
If I had pulled it sooner, I could have saved a couple gears, retaining plate, bearings and synchros.
It was a great excuse to do the GT2 mod, all steel synchros and LSD $18 later
Were you able to save the case?
11-11-2019, 12:36 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
Could have spent less w/o GT2 mod, used brass synchros, skipped LSD & cooler.
Still would have been spendy.
If I bought another one with 50k+ miles and intended on keeping it, I'd have it gone through by someone who would replace what's worn, do the GT2 gearset, tap for a cooler, and leave the rest.
Then you're set for a long time.