In my research, the fin density was greater on the 997GT2RS intercoolers than the Bell ones and that was the differentiator for me. My application was to get the lowest IAT after repeated full throttle runs on track and due to the high fin density of the 997GT2RS intercoolers the recovery time on my IAT’s was better which allowed me to have more power more quickly and thus faster lap times...

 

This is the classic bar and plate vs fin and tube design debate. Bar and plate is better for highway pulls or drag racing and the fin and tube like the RS coolers works better on the track for heat soak after repeated runs.

 

I don’t disagree, which is why I suggested running/testing both.

 

Have you figured much out as far as using sensors for the DCCD? I have a fuel pump with a variable speed controller that runs off of an analog signal from the MAP sensor. It is designed for an aftermarket ECU. I tried to tap into my MAP sensor line but it wound up messing with my signal and causing problems with my ECU engine management. I wound up installing a separate MAP sensor for the fuel pump. I wonder if you could tap into your current sensors or of you have to install various sensors separately.

 

The mapDCCD only needs to tap into the throttle, brake pedal switch, and RPM signal which shouldn't pose any issues.

In other news, I stumbled upon a great deal for a set of catalytic converters from a SpeedTech exhaust which will save me a lot of fabrication time (and a little money) when I build my new exhaust to replace the Fabspeed unit I currently have on the car.

 

Yes I think some of the sensors for the diff control are going to be difficult. There is no RPM pulse output as the RPM is sent to the cluster on canbus. There is no vehicle speed pulse output as the speed is sent from the ABS to the cluster via canbus. It appears those signals aren't mandatory.
The RPM signal could be developed by tapping one of the coil pack driver wires, which would give you a one pulse per 2 RPM signal. I've done this in other cars using a tach converter to drive the factory 3 pulse per rev tach.
The vehicle speed signal could be used by somehow tapping one wheel speed sensor. Knowing the number of teeth on the harmonic wheel you could develop a relationship between frequency and vehicle speed. I've done this on other cars to develop a 4-pulse per wheel revolution signal to drive the factory speedometer, and also to recalibrate the factory speedo to read properly with different tire sizes.

Tapping a low-impedance input like the fuel pump controller into a high impedance signal like the MAF is virtually guaranteed to cause the signal to change. The trick is to buffer & condition the high impedance signal using a suitable amplifier. I've done this on other cars, and also on the 996T for using an aux gauge for oil temp, oil pres, and Tip temp.

I wrote before that I am interested in this as an upgrade for my Tiptronic car, as there's no LSD available for the Tip trans.

 

Pin 9 on the OBD port is a tach signal. It's how everyone who has a shift light on these cars gets their signal. I don't need a vehicle speed input, the g-sensor in the controller can determine relative rate of accelleration/decelleration.

 

I'm highly interested in doing this swap as well. My experience from the MAP sensor fail I had tells me that the best course of action would be to install secondary sensors from a Subaru.

 

That's good to know about pin 9. I saw that on the schematic and didn't realize that "TN-SIGNAL" was a tach output!

 

Okay, back to this question for a bit as I'm still a bit torn on my options. My power goals for the car are somewhere around 600whp. It's mostly a highway cruiser that may occasionally see a track day or two.

 

However, Andrew (@2fcknfst) somehow managed to blow open the core on one of his EVOMS intercoolers and he sold them to me for parts.

I managed this clearly because I am awesome.
While inspecting the bad EVOMS intercooler, I located the damage and it appears to be a relatively easy fix (sorry Andrew ).

I tried to have them fixed, my RAD guy said he couldn't do it, but if you can, my loss is your gain until we finally get together for a beer(s)...

Have I ever mentioned how much beer I can drink...?

My concern in fixing them would be that they come apart again - I think your original plan is solid, and interesting for that matter. Also consider that they broke at no more than 1.2 bar in the first place...



Cheers,

 

The 997.2s have been proven by Earl to consistently outperform other aftermarket units by a wide margin. For those that choose not to believe Earls data, well that's their prerogative. For a vast majority of guys running 3.6 Mezgers with standard bolt ons and a tune, the 997.2s are the superior choice at a great price point. That is what I would go with hands down over other options for the 600whp level cars. Another great option appears to be the DO88 with the Motorsport cores in the link below. Those look very good. King of the hill are the 4.0" Marston Core intercoolers. The fin density is amazing and the fin are extremely thin to increase heat transfer. They are actually so fine one has to be cautious not to bend them while handling them. Nice thing about Marston Aerospace is the fact they provide detailed performance data for each specific core. An example of that is the data for the 3.5"(bottom) and 4.0" (top) chart below.

https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/bigp...971-turbo.html



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I'll chime in here too - they are not Bell cores - that was the first thing I looked at for replacement before trying to fix them.

 

At long last, I've finally caught up on other non-car projects around the house and can get this up in the air to start the differential swap, install a pile of stuff I've bought for the car over the last year or so, and do a little maintenance.



I'm guessing it will take me at least a month to get the car back on the ground, maybe two months but hopefully not. Work has been busy lately, and I have a three year old to keep entertained (and he isn't quite old enough to help dad yet).

 

Good luck! Super interested in how the front diff works out.
And I know how time seems to evaporate. My little 3-week fix the oil leaks and the P1325 code turned into, so far, a three month tour.