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Interpreting PPI results; paint and DME

Old 01-10-2019, 06:55 PM
  #16  
32krazy!
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if your incurring drivetrain chatter during shifting most likley you need to run the rpm up before shifting. 6800 rpm on oen stock car. dont lug it run it out then shift.
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:00 PM
  #17  
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I also blip the throttle to rev match before releasing the clutch, since I'm shifting slow enough that revs drop to below where they'll be in the next gear. I had never rev matched upshifts on previous cars, but it helps with the smoothness. Our flywheels must be heavy.

Anyone else do this?
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by manimal View Post
I also blip the throttle to rev match before releasing the clutch, since I'm shifting slow enough that revs drop to below where they'll be in the next gear. I had never rev matched upshifts on previous cars, but it helps with the smoothness. Our flywheels must be heavy.

Anyone else do this?
I do the same when I don't make the higher mental effort to control the throttle to target the appropriate next gear RPM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:30 AM
  #19  
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Thanks for the insight on drivetrain fellas. I seem to induce this shutter upon clutch pedal depression under <30-40% engine load < 3500rpm or so. I think higher RPMs before upshift and more ginger pedal depress sounds like the key. And of course, lots of time to get properly acquainted with the unit that lands in the garage!

Never encountered this on downshifts, rev matching is a easy peasy in these cars.

Thanks again!
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:31 AM
  #20  
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Oh, and the rest of the PPI came in. The shop has been rather difficult to work with, took no pictures of suspect areas where very qualitative adjectives were applied, and returned the car before delivering the final PPI report and calling me. And, they just whipped up a report, with no estimations of repair costs to bring items back into service or spec! Ugh, been a bit of a headache, but always a learning experience.

Sooooo, the expected unexpected:

Mandatory (parts and labor rough order of magnitude quote) :
Passenger window regulator needs replaced - $700
Front inner and outer axle boots need replaced (sweating) - $1000
All 3 coolant radiators need replaced (seeping) - $4000
Keyfob trunk button does work - $unknown - $450?
Rear splash pan broken - $200 from pelican parts

Optional and desired:
Coolant reservoir very yellow/old - $$$ no idea, but apparently engine out or engine lowering is required. Sounds expensive.
Optional front diff service (axle seals and diff fluid) while axles are out - $250?

AND, the PPI didn't even catch the discussed and witnesses failing weeping spoiler rams. This was discussed with the owner as the only known visible issue with the car (weeping oil). $1750 or so for electric replacements, haven't researched rebuild options yet. But, this was visible and discussed with the owner, and not caught by the PPI shop. So, have to budget for a few extras that were not caught.

So, coming in at $6000-$7000 to get this thing to reasonable daily or long distance shape (less spoiler rams), and a few extra bucks to do reasonable extras while in there. The seller is very reasonable and I'd like to work with him. This is a bit more than I wanted to do honestly before spending a few fun weekends in the car. Having 2 quotes for mandatory service and optional desired extras listed above quoted at an independent shop and dealer. We'll see how we go...

But - what to expect with a 16 year old car, regardless of the make? Porsche just comes with a higher pay to play rate...

Rennlisters - you've been a fantastic resource thus far. Many good threads and readings in this form that I've enriched my knowledge with greatly, and for this I thank the community for.

Thanks in advance for your considerations and advice!
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:50 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by speedysteve View Post
But - what to expect with a 16 year old car, regardless of the make? Porsche just comes with a higher pay to play rate...
You can expect a better maintained car for $45K+ in the current 996 Turbo market. 4 years ago I looked at cars like the one you described...and I passed on all of them.

There were enough 996 Turbos built that you can and will find a better car in short order.

Just my 2 cents.

I do wish you good luck with your search, when you find the right car you'll know... They're great cars--well built and so much fun to drive. The 1 bar tune, exhaust, shifter, and upraded steering wheel have made such an impactful improvement it's like a whole nother level!
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Old 01-11-2019, 02:58 AM
  #22  
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What exactly are you looking for? I may be selling my bone stock ‘03 as the opportunity to purchase one of my previous turbos has arisen.

shoot me a pm if you want.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:26 PM
  #23  
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I would suggest to not buy this car without personally seeing it yourself, based on the info you have provided, and the way the shop handled the ppi.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:25 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Turbodan View Post
I would suggest to not buy this car without personally seeing it yourself, based on the info you have provided, and the way the shop handled the ppi.
Totally agree. Another car with less or even no stories will come along! Buying a car like the one described in this thread sight unseen based on the current PPI is a recipe for disaster. Sure, it might all work out, but why take the risk?
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:39 PM
  #25  
"02996ttx50
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Originally Posted by speedysteve View Post
Mandatory (parts and labor rough order of magnitude quote) :
Passenger window regulator needs replaced - $700
Front inner and outer axle boots need replaced (sweating) - $1000
All 3 coolant radiators need replaced (seeping) - $4000
Keyfob trunk button does work - $unknown - $450?
Rear splash pan broken - $200 from pelican parts

Optional and desired:
Coolant reservoir very yellow/old - $$$ no idea, but apparently engine out or engine lowering is required. Sounds expensive.
Optional front diff service (axle seals and diff fluid) while axles are out - $250?

AND, the PPI didn't even catch the discussed and witnesses failing weeping spoiler rams.


So, coming in at $6000-$7000 to get this thing to reasonable daily or long distance shape (less spoiler rams), and a few extra bucks to do reasonable extras while in there.
window reg from pelican 150.00$ an hour labor to r&r TOPS.

cv boots kits ( inner & outer ) $25 ea x 4 comes with clamps and grease too. cpl hours.

all 3 rads failing at once is rare. i just r&r'd one. cost me nothing but a pal had a spare sitting there. if you DO need all 3 at once? 1500.oo +/- in parts. its probably 3-4 hrs labor incl the flush.. tops.

expansion tank. 175 at pelican. an hour + to r&r. it'd no big deal at all. may need to lower the mm's and obviously remove airbox etc.

once an owner you'd be well served by finding an indy that allows you to bring your parts. they wont like it, but you'll save a lot.

also, learn "book time" on every quoted service item you do. it's always at LEAST 33/50% more time than is needed to successfully complete the repair.

​​​​​​​ beware the price gouge. GL.
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:01 PM
  #26  
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As others have suggested, I would also pass on this one. There are often alot of tt's for sale with less history and drama. Sounds like a lot of deferred maintenance on this one, and who knows what else is unknown.. Good luck & keep looking.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mffarrell View Post
This car has been definitely repainted or spot painted. Normal paint thicknesses on a new Porsche is 4 to 6 mils.
The paint reading look pretty consistent, which means either a total repaint or perhaps the meter calibration was off. I attached readings from my original paint 03 for comparison. The high readings on the rear panels were taken over clear film.



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