Control arms
11-12-2018, 11:25 AM
#1
Control arms
It's almost time to do control arms, and while I'm getting seduced by all the sexy, lightweight, billet, metal-jointed stuff out there I'd like to hear about some BTDT regarding what my needs really are.
Car is occasional use: mountain/coastal trips, track days, and (rarely) commute. Maybe 2-3k mi/yr. Judging by the Nittos' wear and lack of turn-in, I need more camber in the front. Car is rarely in a wet environment. GT2 ride height w/PSS9s. The whole underside of the car gets steam cleaned/detailed 1x year.
While it's tempting to pull up the Tarrett catalog, or buy a set of RSS Tarmac stuff, I'm wondering if it might not be advisable to take a half step and just put GT3 arms (or SPC) on the front and keep rubber joints. I've read posts stating, "If you track the car, get all the rubber out of the suspension!" but I'm wondering about lubrication/joint replacement schedule under the type of use I'm subjecting it to. Also, is there a noticeable difference in road noise on the street?
If I stick with rubber joints I do like the idea of the forged SPC arm, with threaded adjusters instead of shims. I am wondering if I need adjustable caster pucks (which SPCs don't do) on a moderate ride height car.
Car is occasional use: mountain/coastal trips, track days, and (rarely) commute. Maybe 2-3k mi/yr. Judging by the Nittos' wear and lack of turn-in, I need more camber in the front. Car is rarely in a wet environment. GT2 ride height w/PSS9s. The whole underside of the car gets steam cleaned/detailed 1x year.
While it's tempting to pull up the Tarrett catalog, or buy a set of RSS Tarmac stuff, I'm wondering if it might not be advisable to take a half step and just put GT3 arms (or SPC) on the front and keep rubber joints. I've read posts stating, "If you track the car, get all the rubber out of the suspension!" but I'm wondering about lubrication/joint replacement schedule under the type of use I'm subjecting it to. Also, is there a noticeable difference in road noise on the street?
If I stick with rubber joints I do like the idea of the forged SPC arm, with threaded adjusters instead of shims. I am wondering if I need adjustable caster pucks (which SPCs don't do) on a moderate ride height car.
11-12-2018, 02:01 PM
#3
Stick with OEM street parts or OEM Motorsport parts. Most of the aftermarket is junk...
11-12-2018, 02:09 PM
#4
Just bought Elephant racing full suspension. Looks amazing, looking forward to getting in on the car. I will say the biggest +++ is now the option of replacing the ball joint only rather than having to replace the entire arm. They're not cheap but very nice.
11-12-2018, 02:10 PM
#5
FYI do some research prior to buying the SPC arms as many have had the balljoints back out on them. I think it would be fine with a tack weld under the assembly, but I don't know if I'd trust em.
11-12-2018, 02:27 PM
#6
Yikes. Thanks for the tip. I had their arms on my Audi S4 and was very happy with them.
11-12-2018, 02:29 PM
#7
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11-12-2018, 02:40 PM
#8
Pretty sure TRW and Porsche are the same less the branding obviously. Stay away from the cheaper crap, it's priced cheap for a reason. Now there's also EPS and Meyle stuff but use google to help you find reviews as they're all over the place. I would stick with the TRW if you don't wanna put heim joints everywhere.
11-12-2018, 02:41 PM
#9
11-12-2018, 06:38 PM
#11
11-12-2018, 07:05 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
I went with GT arms with solid inserts, all suspension points with solid pick ups. not recommended if your doing long leisurly drives or have alot of dental fillings.. :-) depending on type of coil overs and your spring rates it may be fine.