Potential Ignition Switch Issue?
#1
Potential Ignition Switch Issue?
I'm not currently having any issues with the ignition switch on my car per se, but with the key inserted, there is a sizeable amount of play present in what I would guess was the tumbler/steering lock assembly had I not known about the common ignition switch failures. The car starts fine, the key springs back to the run position, and I have not experienced any of the issues typically associated with a failing ignition switch (flickering lights, intermittent operation of the AC/radio/fans, etc.) but am curious if the key being able to move up & down and side to side is indicative of a potential ignition switch failure?
#2
No. But order a switch to have on hand...just in case (eventually it will act up being a plastic part).
A new switch will make the key fit...snugly...if that is what you're going for.
I've changed the ignition switch out when the A/C quit working. I have another switch, in a different car, that sometimes doesn't disengage the lock out.
A new switch will make the key fit...snugly...if that is what you're going for.
I've changed the ignition switch out when the A/C quit working. I have another switch, in a different car, that sometimes doesn't disengage the lock out.
#3
Yeah, the plan was to have a spare on hand in case it fails, but I was just curious if the slop in the key was related to the switch. I may replace it and keep the sloppy one as a backup.
#4
Rennlist Member
Mine was loose and it went out when driving at night and I lost headlights but was able to wiggle it back to work for the 5 miles home.
#5
Rennlist Member
Concur. Also, since you aren't in a hurry, spend the extra $$ and buy the $27 part versus the $12 part that NAPA keeps in stock. I'd only use the NAPA part if I were in a time crunch and couldn't wait the 3 or 4 days to get the good part shipped to me.
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...gnition.Switch
(don't forget to use promo code "996outpost" or "Rennlist" to get 10% off at Warehouse33auto.com)
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...gnition.Switch
(don't forget to use promo code "996outpost" or "Rennlist" to get 10% off at Warehouse33auto.com)
#6
Former Vendor
Concur. Also, since you aren't in a hurry, spend the extra $$ and buy the $27 part versus the $12 part that NAPA keeps in stock. I'd only use the NAPA part if I were in a time crunch and couldn't wait the 3 or 4 days to get the good part shipped to me.
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...gnition.Switch
(don't forget to use promo code "996outpost" or "Rennlist" to get 10% off at Warehouse33auto.com)
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...gnition.Switch
(don't forget to use promo code "996outpost" or "Rennlist" to get 10% off at Warehouse33auto.com)
#7
Rennlist Member
I've been fortunate enough to never have an ignition lock issue on any of my 911s, but preparing for the future, what's the deal with the "original style lock assembly" and the ""original style lock assembly"?
I don't recall there being two different types of ignition switches (other than the cheap vs. higher quality), but as I said, never had to change one before.
I don't recall there being two different types of ignition switches (other than the cheap vs. higher quality), but as I said, never had to change one before.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Paul:
The 2 top ones (the ones without the white dome on the end of it) are for the early 996s. So, when I did my '99 C4 ignition switch (twice, thanks to going cheap on the first replacement), I used the top ones. They switched over at some point, but I don't think it was a 996 Mk1 vs. Mk2 thing. The link I posted was for a 2002 model 996TT, so apparently the factory was switching over during that time. I think the only way to tell is to pull the one in your car out and look. If I had a 2004, I'd probably just buy the white dome one and take my chances (rather than go through the pain of getting under the dash to look).
The 2 top ones (the ones without the white dome on the end of it) are for the early 996s. So, when I did my '99 C4 ignition switch (twice, thanks to going cheap on the first replacement), I used the top ones. They switched over at some point, but I don't think it was a 996 Mk1 vs. Mk2 thing. The link I posted was for a 2002 model 996TT, so apparently the factory was switching over during that time. I think the only way to tell is to pull the one in your car out and look. If I had a 2004, I'd probably just buy the white dome one and take my chances (rather than go through the pain of getting under the dash to look).
#10
Rennlist Member
Paul:
The 2 top ones (the ones without the white dome on the end of it) are for the early 996s. So, when I did my '99 C4 ignition switch (twice, thanks to going cheap on the first replacement), I used the top ones. They switched over at some point, but I don't think it was a 996 Mk1 vs. Mk2 thing. The link I posted was for a 2002 model 996TT, so apparently the factory was switching over during that time. I think the only way to tell is to pull the one in your car out and look. If I had a 2004, I'd probably just buy the white dome one and take my chances (rather than go through the pain of getting under the dash to look).
The 2 top ones (the ones without the white dome on the end of it) are for the early 996s. So, when I did my '99 C4 ignition switch (twice, thanks to going cheap on the first replacement), I used the top ones. They switched over at some point, but I don't think it was a 996 Mk1 vs. Mk2 thing. The link I posted was for a 2002 model 996TT, so apparently the factory was switching over during that time. I think the only way to tell is to pull the one in your car out and look. If I had a 2004, I'd probably just buy the white dome one and take my chances (rather than go through the pain of getting under the dash to look).