Need info on vacuum lines for mafless setup and ypipe
#1
Need info on vacuum lines for mafless setup and ypipe
Im going with mafless setup with SRM Y pipe that has both front vacuum port deleted. I need some help with running tials bov and how to delete the rest of the vacuum lines.
thanks
thanks
#2
Three Wheelin'
you can run the BOVs off of the vacuum port that fed the diverter valves that comes off the plenum.... weld flanges for the tial BOVs on the y pipe, mount BOVs, run vacuum line then split it to each BOV.
#4
I know it's an old thread, but I'm currently in the process of installing an SRM y-pipe into my car, and had to add ports on it for the N75 and for the brake booster line. Feel free to ask questions on how I did it, i have some pictures.
#5
I've been running similar setup for years. Running one of the ports on the n75 open to the atmosphere.
#6
Rennlist Member
Is the brake booster where that 1/2" line on the stock y pipe runs to (to the left of the throttle body on the pipe)? I just bought one of these and am really curious as to how everyone rerouted everything for it. Thanks in advance for the help...
#7
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#9
When I did the GT2 master/slave.conversion, I removed the clutch assist lines that ran to the stock ps reservoir tank top. Instead of capping the ports left behind, I just machined a new tank lid, and added a -8AN fitting for the ps return line. Less potential places to leak now.
#10
Rennlist Member
Are you using the SRM throttle body and plenum as well? I do not have them, so I planned on just running a reducer from 82mm to the 68mm throttle body...
#11
I am using the SRM plenum and a 74 mm 997 throttle body. The SRM y pipe and plenum are both sized to interface with the 74 mm throttle body. I would recommend going that route if you're going to do the y-pipe. The SRM plenum is nice and let's you use AN fittings for vacuum lines and can simplify the whole vacuum setup as well. I removed the Secondary Air and diverter valve vacuum systems, which cleaned up the engine bay a lot and gives more room to work.
#12
Rennlist Member
When I did the GT2 master/slave.conversion, I removed the clutch assist lines that ran to the stock ps reservoir tank top. Instead of capping the ports left behind, I just machined a new tank lid, and added a -8AN fitting for the ps return line. Less potential places to leak now.
#13
I used all OEM parts. Drilled and tapped the transmission, and used the GT2 slave part as is without modification to rod length or anything. Changed the master cylinder to a new one to remove any pentosin. I did have to clearance the bellhousing internally to clear the shifter fork (some grinding). It works perfectly and the engagement point is right in the middle of the clutch pedal travel.
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paopao (11-12-2021)
#14
Rennlist Member
I used all OEM parts. Drilled and tapped the transmission, and used the GT2 slave part as is without modification to rod length or anything. Changed the master cylinder to a new one to remove any pentosin. I did have to clearance the bellhousing internally to clear the shifter fork (some grinding). It works perfectly and the engagement point is right in the middle of the clutch pedal travel.
#15
Nope, I didn't machine down the surface. I believe the GT2 case is machined - i suppose this would lead to a slightly lower engagement point compared to what i have. But again, im happy with how it came out and have no issues after ~3k miles on the setup.
The following users liked this post:
paopao (11-12-2021)