SamboTT@ByDesign

This!

Feel free to reach out anytime gents. With 20+ years of experience I can try to help with some unknowns or confusion. Put simply you should be just fine. If not your clutch was below spec and about to slip soon anyhow even on a stock map as it's hydraulic and should compensate for disc wear. This leaves the pressure plate to show it's wear or fatigue. By the way you can google tip top

AdamNoone

And to go a bit more into detail, my clutch disk had plenty of meat on it, well within spec. The springs were sloppy and we assumed the PP was getting weak. It would only slip under full boost/full TQ.

HBdirtbag

My stock clutch handled my tune fine till I upgraded by choice

autobonrun

pfbz

Just consider it a test to see how good your current clutch is!

I'm running stock with OTS Cobb 91 octane tune (high altitude, best we can easily get), 60K miles, original clutch..
No slipping. But I'm not doing clutch drop 0-60 runs either.

SamboTT@ByDesign

Turbodan

I asked on the other thread: does the flywheel require machining when changing clutch and keeping stock flywheel? and is 7 hours all it takes to change out clutch by dropping trani and is that the recommended method?

autobonrun

My current clutch is good to go. I installed the GT3 RS 4.0 clutch kit about 2 years ago, along with the RS964 flywheel. Absolutely no slippage under full boost.

No clutch drops for me either. That's why I have 215k miles on my SC and I replaced the OEM clutch just once, at 110k miles; that and the fact it's half the power of a TT.

docwyte

Hmm, ok, as far as I can tell my clutch is fine. It's not slipping now, feels like it has a positive engagement and grabs fine, 29k miles on it.

I know you can flash back to stock with the Cobb tuner, can you also do that with UMW's tuner?

autobonrun

pfbz

When you do the clutch, it's often worth bundling in some other engine drop work at the same time... In addition to 1) an upgraded clutch setup, you probably also want to do 2) GT2 clutch slave conversion (your stock clutch slave and accumulator will leak/fail at some point, just a matter of when) and 3) pinning or welding the coolant pipes (especially if you plan on tracking the car).

I'd tune with the stock clutch for now, and budget for an engine-out service doing all three jobs in the future.

And you though the initial purchase was the expensive part!

911mhawk

+1^
If you're on a budget, double it now!

docwyte

I just replaced the clutch slave accumulator. I actually prefer the lighter clutch feel it gives vs the 800lb gorilla pedal you get if you go unassisted. That was one of the main reasons I didn't buy a 996 GT3 back in 2010. Of course I now regret that decision since they were *cheap* back then but that's another story...

pfbz

I don't mind the feel of the assisted clutch, not that I love its inconsistancy either. Not the primary reason to change it though... 996/997 Turbo clutch hydraulics are just not the best design in the world. OK on paper (perhaps even brilliant) to steal power steering pressure to assist clutch pedal pressure, but the execution is flawed.

In addition to the accumulator issues (which are pretty easy and inexpensive to fix), the seals on the slave itself begin to leak over time allowing pressurized pentosin from the power steering circuit to bleed into the clutch pentosin circuit, causing messy overflow at the clutch fluid reservoir and eventually failure of the clutch actuator...

Like the spoiler rams, the failed part probably cost Porsche less than a buck but is non-replaceable and quite expensive to replace the entire mechanism. The aftermarket GT2 replacement kits that don't require a tranny drop are more expensive than the oe gt2 parts and don't seem to be as solid of a setup, so it seems to me either live with stock or do it right with full GT2 replacement tapped into the tranny, new fork, new lines, etc.

Does anyone have a 80K mile Turbo where the spoiler rams and/or the slave cylinder haven't failed at least once? Not many i bet.

They are incredibly awesome cars, and I'm happy that most weak points are well known with some solid alternative solutions if you don't want to go back to oem, but they definitely have their common flaws and failures.

FASTTRIP

I have same milage as you 29k on a 2003 996tt , i had purchased a Cobb tuner at 27 k miles and not sure if the guys consider that a tune on a stage 1 Cobb set up, but my stock original clutch is still as strong as the day i started at 23k miles which the car had when purchased 2.5 years ago..