pfbz

Wow, your right! They must have recently reduced their price or come out with a cheaper version, they used to be MUCH more expensive, $200+!

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-r...struction.html

32krazy!

check the local auto parts shops. most have eastwood fender rollers for rent

HBdirtbag

Unfortunately none that have an adapter most likely. Nor will they let you cut the tabs

Carlo_Carrera

Interesting, I have done fender rolling to several zinc coated cars with no rusting problems. I will keep what you said in mind though if I ever do it again.

nbressette

When I rolled my rears I had to trim then top of the fender liner from 9:30-1 o'clock to keep the top of the tire from rubbing.

This was for 315's in the back on stock offset with a 7mm spacer and gt2 brackets on the inner liner.

Keep in mind when John talks about what he can fit without rubbing his car has a vastly tighter suspension than someone who is running 16 year old oem rubber bushings.

Road King

Fender Rolling tool from my Mustang days....I don't think I have the guts to use this on my Turbo though.

powdrhound

I have always used used a 2.5lb mallet wrapped in duck tape to roll fenders. I personally prefer using the mallet versus the fender rolling tool as the mallet allows me to work the fender lip from the inside with the mallet while heating it up with a heat gun. This gives me more "feel" and allows for a tighter roll. I also rolled my front fenders tighter to give me more clearance. I have never had paint crack using this method. On the TT/GT2/3, you can roll the fender very tight this way. The GT cars have a mild roll from the factory while the TT cars have none. For max clearance if using 26"+ tall wheels/tires at low ride heights, there is an area near the fender / bumper plastic junction that needs to be ground away. This can be done with a metal grinder but you have to paint it afterwords to rustproof it. You can shove a lot of wheel and tire under the fenders this way...

Yes, as a poster mentioned above, squishy rubber bushings do take away from potential clearance as they allow the whole wheel assembly to more around under load. Solid bushings help greatly.

HBdirtbag

you have a picture of chance about what you trimmed on the liner?

powdrhound

You have to grind away the flat metal piece in addition to the bump that is normally present where the fender is rolled over onto itself in the area to the left of the fender liner screw in the picture below. The bump is obviously not visible there as I've ground it away. You can also see how the plastic bumper "lip" of the bumper cover is cut down so as to angle down to the fender lip and thus create more room for the tire. None of this is necessary unless you run 12.5 - 13" wheels and 335 tires at low ride heights. The best way to figure out where you need to "open" things up is to put your car on jack stands, disconnect the shock from the wheel carrier along with the sway bar, place a jack under the wheel and tire assembly, and jack it up so that it tucks up into the wheel well. This will clearly show you the interference areas.

HBdirtbag

thanks as usual!

powdrhound

manimal

Any recommendations on which bushings to run for a street car? I see some fender liner wear on mine that makes me think my bushings are shot.

powdrhound

On a 100% street / weekend car I'd buy a new set of OEM LCAs, press out the factory rubber thrust arm bushing, and install Tarett solid thrust arm bushings in their place. This will button it up nicely without any NVH. DO NOT install upper monoball dog bones.

Carlo_Carrera

Good tip, thanks.

manimal

Yeah, sweet, thanks John.