jhall

Well, I agreed to a price for the car and I'm now the proud owner of a 2002 Turbo. The seller ultimately agreed to a $6k reduction in the price to deal with the 2nd gear synchro. I drove the car home and by double clutching second gear I could shift without any grinding. I have the car scheduled into my trusted, semi-local Indy shop to have the synchro and whatever else they find fixed next Tuesday. I'll update this thread with how the repair goes.

Now, on to my latest question. The car has 59K on it and I'm trying to decide what else to do while I have the motor and transmission out. Here are some things I'm considering and perhaps others could offer suggestions for the maintenance.

1. Clutch(obviously)
2. Plugs
3. Coil packs
4. Brake Flush
5. Water pump
6. Thermostat

Here are a couple pictures of the car.





Thanks,

Jon

GTgears

Pin the coolant fittings.

fpb111

+1

jhall

Are coolant fittings something important to do to a car that will never see a track?

Macster

1. Clutch(obviously)
2. Plugs
3. Coil packs
4. Brake Flush
5. Water pump
6. Thermostat

Well, it is up to you. My 2003 Turbo's transmission was out at around 120K miles for an RMS leak and the clutch disc had no measureable wear. The rest of the clutch hardware was similarly in very good condition. The only things that got replaced when the tech put the transmission back in the car was the clutch control shaft needle bearings, a few small bits of other hardware, and the turbo sealing metal o-rings.

Plugs and coils is probably ok. I have the plugs replaced on miles -- I forget what the miles are now -- and had the coils done at around 140K miles. Engine perked up some afterwards and even though plugs were done -- they had about 10K miles before they were do on miles -- at the same time the engine has never reacted to new plugs before so I attribute the improvement to the new coils.

Brake fluid flush is due every 2 years.

Water pump in my car lasted 120K miles. Your car has not quite half those miles. A water pump job is not an engine out job so you could elect to leave the water in service until it signals time to replace. The one in my Turbo developed a bit of leak and I smelled anti-freeze and knew there was a problem and took the car in and the tech spotted the leak from the pump right off the bat. (By way of comparison the water pump in my Boxster lasted to 172K miles. It didn't leak but instead got noisy.) Whenever you replace the water pump the T-Stat gets replaced.

Replace the coolant with fresh. This helps to prolong the life of the cooling system components.

PCA1983

Yes. Certainly, replace everything that needs it. Water pump and and plug stuff for sure, unless recently replaced. Clutch parts if needed. Make sure you trust your chosen shop and listen to what they say...

Kevinmacd

Why is the engine coming out.

Carlo_Carrera

IMHO if you are not going to track it than pinning/welding the tubes is unnecessary but since you might have the engine out it might be worth it.

GTgears

911mhawk

Motor mounts, transmission mount, all water hoses, coolant reservoir, new vacuum lines and zip tie them, belt, check valves, radiators....
You can go as deep as you want on preventative but it adds up quick.
All depends on intended use and time you may keep it.
Track it and keep it = do everything you can
Coffee, shine and sell in a year = keep air in tires

2 years ago I went overboard for maximum reliability on track and to avoid unexpected repairs from parts that I thought may fail and be a pain to get at with engine in.
I'd rather pay up front and enjoy a more reliable car but some stuff I do may never brake.
Had trans out last month for a TO bearing ear that snapped off at the track so you're never immune.

jeanmarcboilard

Congratulations, that's a great looking car!
Personally, I would be very very picky with who goes into my transmission. A trusted local Indy shop would be low on that list, unless they can provide you with references of previous work on G50 gearbox.
This isn't something that you need to rush into.

"02996ttx50

Thanks,

Jon[/QUOTE]

i dbl clutch constantly, as i am a creature of habit. though my g'box is fresh. no harm has come of it.

take the 6k "discount" and replace any parts you know to be 15 years old that you ( or someone you trust ) can easily get at. plugs/coils and any rubber bits ( MM's/ top mount/trans mounts etc ) will need to be thought of, if not replaced. if you don't "know" the provenance of this 15 yr old car? replace any/all "wear" parts, since the motor is being dropped.. and don't neglect the rms. ( 10 dollar rubber ring )
great aero kit btw! cheers. i ( sometimes ) miss my "02' lol

32krazy!

for 6k reduction you can send the trans to rader transmissions and get a built trans with better gearing and steel syncros. and know its done right.

pin or weld the fittings

mark_schnell

I'm going to watch this thread for what happens with the 2nd gear synchro at the "trusted(semi)" Indie mechanic. I have dealt with a local (So Cal, so no help for a Jersey boy, sorry) transmission shop with an A+ rating and 20+ years in business, and had good results on our motorhome and our kid's Civic rebuilds so far. I'm curious to see what your mechanic quotes for a fix. You might want to do some competitive shopping and/or Google searching for transmission places nearby before going with a semi-trusted service provider.

Turbodan

GT3 oll dipstick,
diverter valve,
coolant pipes
clutch plate
welcome to 996 turbo!