WTB: 996 GT3. Driver condition. Not concours. Priced to reflect.
#31
Rennlist Member
Sounds like you will be waiting for
A Unicorn, one that may generate a bidding situation where you won't prevail based on your comments.
Ppi, is no guarantee of anything in the real world, and be sure your prepared real preventive maintence, age generates a lot of issues not readily apparent in relatively low mileage car.
BYW: Mooty knows what the hell he's talking about.
A Unicorn, one that may generate a bidding situation where you won't prevail based on your comments.
Ppi, is no guarantee of anything in the real world, and be sure your prepared real preventive maintence, age generates a lot of issues not readily apparent in relatively low mileage car.
BYW: Mooty knows what the hell he's talking about.
#32
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Sounds like you will be waiting for A Unicorn, one that may generate a bidding situation where you won't prevail based on your comments. Ppi, is no guarantee of anything in the real world, and be sure your prepared real preventive maintence, age generates a lot of issues not readily apparent in relatively low mileage car. BYW: Mooty knows what the hell he's talking about.
#33
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#34
Race Car
What's all that worth to you? Most people won't even bother putting a number on it; peace of mind is worth more than $
#36
Assuming that a 20k mile clean title car is worth about $75k that puts a salvage title car at about 60-70% of a comparable clean title vehicle.
#37
Pro
In my opinion a salvage title GT3 only makes sense if you are going to turn it into a dedicated track car or race car. Tough resale no matter what. Price depends on what was totaled, and how it was repaired.
#38
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OP, I hope this right turn on your thread was helpful for you as well... ***jason
#40
Burning Brakes
So riding the fence - here's my limited experience with GT3's combined with purchasing a variety of other Porsches. I bought a higher mileage one owner GT3 at the lower end of the price spectrum. The PPI revealed worn transmission mount to replace with the worn out original clutch and LSD. The car had a $5k+ suspension upgrade, roll bar and $10k of factory Porsche appearance options about which I care little. It had some paint work from a disclosed minor incident but clean car fax. I ultimately put about $6k into the car with the clutch plus the "while we're in here" stuff which included the Guard LSD rebuild, plugs, coil packs, and fluid flushes. I could have bought a lower mileage similarly prepared but "nicer" (no paint work, 3 owner, more expensive suspension upgrade) car for about $14k more (plus tax) from a Porsche dealer. The dealer car sold while I was test driving it. To Mooty's point - the cheaper car may end up costing the same by the time you put the needed maintenance dollars in. However, my experience with used Porsches is no matter what you pay there will always be an "opportunity" (read necessity) to spend some money on it. What I liked about buying the less expensive car was (1) though it "needed" a clutch the day I bought it - I drove it 2 seasons and DE'd it a few times before replacing the clutch and (2) the work that was done was my mechanic so I get some warranty and good will for the work down the road and (3) I don't freak about doing a little track time to justify the expense of maintenance. You don't always get the second benefit if you buy the car and the work was done for the prior owner - especially if the prior owner's mechanic is half way across the country. Buying the right car is often not simply a matter of price and more a matter of value. Even more - buying the right car is usually a matter of avoiding the wrong car for you as the buyer. Nice thing about a GT3 right now is, unless you buy the wrong car, they aren't depreciating. A $65k GT3 may not be worth $100k in a few years but if you don't wreck it you'll not likely see it drop in value either. If you're looking to enjoy - not invest - how often can you buy, drive, love, and sell a car and get your money back? It's like a free pass to the amusement park. All you have to buy are the expensive snacks. Good luck.
#41
Rennlist Member
#43
Intermediate
Thread Starter
So riding the fence - here's my limited experience with GT3's combined with purchasing a variety of other Porsches. I bought a higher mileage one owner GT3 at the lower end of the price spectrum. The PPI revealed worn transmission mount to replace with the worn out original clutch and LSD. The car had a $5k+ suspension upgrade, roll bar and $10k of factory Porsche appearance options about which I care little. It had some paint work from a disclosed minor incident but clean car fax. I ultimately put about $6k into the car with the clutch plus the "while we're in here" stuff which included the Guard LSD rebuild, plugs, coil packs, and fluid flushes. I could have bought a lower mileage similarly prepared but "nicer" (no paint work, 3 owner, more expensive suspension upgrade) car for about $14k more (plus tax) from a Porsche dealer. The dealer car sold while I was test driving it. To Mooty's point - the cheaper car may end up costing the same by the time you put the needed maintenance dollars in. However, my experience with used Porsches is no matter what you pay there will always be an "opportunity" (read necessity) to spend some money on it. What I liked about buying the less expensive car was (1) though it "needed" a clutch the day I bought it - I drove it 2 seasons and DE'd it a few times before replacing the clutch and (2) the work that was done was my mechanic so I get some warranty and good will for the work down the road and (3) I don't freak about doing a little track time to justify the expense of maintenance. You don't always get the second benefit if you buy the car and the work was done for the prior owner - especially if the prior owner's mechanic is half way across the country. Buying the right car is often not simply a matter of price and more a matter of value. Even more - buying the right car is usually a matter of avoiding the wrong car for you as the buyer. Nice thing about a GT3 right now is, unless you buy the wrong car, they aren't depreciating. A $65k GT3 may not be worth $100k in a few years but if you don't wreck it you'll not likely see it drop in value either. If you're looking to enjoy - not invest - how often can you buy, drive, love, and sell a car and get your money back? It's like a free pass to the amusement park. All you have to buy are the expensive snacks. Good luck.
#44
Well I like the idea of this thread. I'm always window shopping a Porsche GT series for the right price :-p drivers cars for the win!
#45
GT3 player par excellence
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if you are a good mechanic DIY all bets are off.
if you not working on your own car, then buying the $$$ car will always end up cheaper (except super low miles,
if you not working on your own car, then buying the $$$ car will always end up cheaper (except super low miles,