Recent Maintenance
#1
Recent Maintenance
My 6-3 now has 54K miles on the clock, and runs like a raped Ape. It's been 25K miles since the old girl had a new set of plugs though. While I'm in there, should I also change out the coils with fresh, even if there are no signs of problems? I looked through all receipts and could not find that coils have ever been refreshed.
I just finished with a new water pump; T-stat; air filter, fresh oil and filter, fresh Trans flush and fluid, fresh fuel filter; new serpentine belt, and cabin filter. All that's left is plugs and maybe coils....
Coolant lines have been welded; new brake rotors and pads recently; SRF brake fluid 1 year ago
Is there anything else I should consider at this point? Cheers all
I just finished with a new water pump; T-stat; air filter, fresh oil and filter, fresh Trans flush and fluid, fresh fuel filter; new serpentine belt, and cabin filter. All that's left is plugs and maybe coils....
Coolant lines have been welded; new brake rotors and pads recently; SRF brake fluid 1 year ago
Is there anything else I should consider at this point? Cheers all
#2
I'd go ahead and do coils if they haven't been done already (996 part number on them should be a dead give-away).
Check axles and wheel bearings, beyond that sounds like you've got most of it covered!
Check axles and wheel bearings, beyond that sounds like you've got most of it covered!
#3
Any need to do radiators at 10-11 years old and around 50k miles? Or are they generally good till 100k regardless of age? Was thinking of upgrading to CSF radiators when they do get replaced...
Mine look pretty beat up but I don't see any seeping or leaking...
Mine look pretty beat up but I don't see any seeping or leaking...
#4
Thanks guys: I just did the plugs. All of them were finger tight, literally finger tight. I've read several posts that make the same claim.... I wonder why... maybe the car has been losing compression. The coils were the 996 part numbers, so def original. I would have changed them but have not ordered yet, so next step.....coils.
It took me a few hours doing it slowly, next time I'll get them 10-15 mins each. The two rear most plugs were the more challenging to get to, but overall a fairly easy job. Doing the coils will be a breeze.
How does one check axles and wheel bearings?
Thanks for the ideas guys. Josh, I didn't even look at the radiators, but plan to now.
Cheers!!!!
It took me a few hours doing it slowly, next time I'll get them 10-15 mins each. The two rear most plugs were the more challenging to get to, but overall a fairly easy job. Doing the coils will be a breeze.
How does one check axles and wheel bearings?
Thanks for the ideas guys. Josh, I didn't even look at the radiators, but plan to now.
Cheers!!!!
#6
You know, I'm not sure I ever thought about it.... I just Googled it and it seems to refer to a fast car. It was used in the muscle car world in the 60's to denote such a car. I've always used it and never really considered it. Funny that
#7
How did you get to the plugs to change them? I know of a couple of different approach angles, none of which sounds pleasant to me. My plugs and coils were changed by my friend who drove the car home from the previous owner for me (my schedule didn't allow it and having a good mechanic drive it home was a lot safer and cheaper than trucking it). He went through the wheel wells and it was quite a reach. Another guy I talked to took off the rear bumper to get to them.
My vote is to change the coils. For a couple hundred bucks you'll never regret it, compared with one going bad about 100 miles after you button the car back up from doing the plugs.
My vote is to change the coils. For a couple hundred bucks you'll never regret it, compared with one going bad about 100 miles after you button the car back up from doing the plugs.
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#9
How did you get to the plugs to change them? I know of a couple of different approach angles, none of which sounds pleasant to me. My plugs and coils were changed by my friend who drove the car home from the previous owner for me (my schedule didn't allow it and having a good mechanic drive it home was a lot safer and cheaper than trucking it). He went through the wheel wells and it was quite a reach. Another guy I talked to took off the rear bumper to get to them.
My vote is to change the coils. For a couple hundred bucks you'll never regret it, compared with one going bad about 100 miles after you button the car back up from doing the plugs.
My vote is to change the coils. For a couple hundred bucks you'll never regret it, compared with one going bad about 100 miles after you button the car back up from doing the plugs.
I backed the car onto a pair of ramps and worked from under the car on either side. Once I removed the heat shields on either side, access was OK. The two plugs closest to the rear bumper were the toughest, but with patience and angling your body in different ways, I was able to get in there. I used two smaller extensions on a 1/4 drive ratchet and was able to get the tools in and out with relative ease. YMMV.
I may have an advantage tough....my stock mufflers are long gone, replaced by Cargraphics cans, so that may make it a little easier than it would be in a pure stock scenario, given the extra space afforded as compared to the stock units, but honestly, I'm not sure. What surprised me the most was how loose the plugs were. In 5 out of 6 cases, I could turn the plugs by hand.
#13
this is a killer tool for porsche plug changes. magnetic plug holder, swivel built into the socket.
#15
Does the GearWrench 6-inch-long socket give you enough length to grab it and pull it out if your wrench/extension pulls free of the socket end of it while the magnet holds firmly onto the spark plug you just put in? If so, I'll be ordering one promptly as that has been the biggest headache for me when it comes to magnetic spark plug sockets.