Notices
996 GT2/GT3 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Longevity/durability of Mezger engines in 996/997 GT3's

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-23-2015, 10:15 PM
  #16  
spiller
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
spiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 2,573
Received 351 Likes on 217 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by NXI20
The Classic oil was in reference to the assertion that Porsche don't recommend 10W60 oil. 20 years ago they didn't for the 993, now they are. Times change. I've always used 10W60 in my 993 but Porsche have only recently started to agree with me Lightweight oil is being recommended for today's engines for reasons of fuel economy, emissions & fast warmup, not necessarily because it's the best thing for the engine (although it might). BMW recommend 10W60 for their M-sport engines such as the E46 M3.

And you seem to be forgetting that my engine has done 127K miles without any wear to the surfaces touched by those bearings - I prefer empirical evidence like that over theory.

If I was racing, I would do many things differently. I'm not, I'm having fun doing 6,000 track miles per year. My car was still as quick as my friends who have 3.8 GT3s & 3.8RSs so it can't be having that much of an effect.

Another thing I forgot to mention is about the 185,000 mile car referenced in a post above. Guess who looked after that car - my shop that always puts 10W60 in GT3s.

QED
Obivously in your case, you have some good results to back up your theory. Whats to say it wouldnt have lasted longer with a life on 5w40 or 0w40 though? The only reason BMW recommends 10w60 for their M3s is because those motors are renowned for using loads of oil. Poor engineering on BMW's part lead to them seeking out castrol to specifically develop a 10w60 that wouldnt burn off by the litre in very short intervals.

I am not an oil expert, far from it. Im playing a touch of devil's advocate here for the good of this thread. The points about higher thermal load have been highlighted by Macster above. I will go on to ask why would you want to further add to the thermal load of an engine which, as you said yourself, already produces quite a bit of heat on it's way to making 100 hp per litre?

Last edited by spiller; 08-24-2015 at 07:50 AM.
Old 08-24-2015, 09:34 AM
  #17  
outline
Racer
 
outline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

..

Last edited by outline; 08-24-2015 at 08:07 PM.
Old 08-24-2015, 10:17 AM
  #18  
ssigarto
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
ssigarto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

As a former owner of a number of BMWs including an E46 M3 and E60 M5, i can attest that indeed BMW recommended the Castrol 10W-60 oil. I can also mention that as the engines in those cars aged, many of them suffered rod bering failures. A good number of us chose to use Mobil 1 0W-40 in our BMW M cars.
Old 08-24-2015, 12:07 PM
  #19  
Cheburator
Rennlist Member
 
Cheburator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1,342
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

I have a 996.1 CS - my car was the 1st street car in the World to have the K400 kit installed by Manthey Racing at their facility in Meuspath, next to the Ring.

I know this for a fact because the first owner of the car on the German title document was Olaf Manthey. My car was the test bed for the kit - and until I bought it last year was maintained by Manthey Racing throughout its life. The car is on 30,880 miles and 530hrs as of this morning. It has been exclusively run on Castrol 10W60 from Jan 2000. Had it on the Maha rollers at VGS Motorsport in Koln on Saturday - 403hp...

I am kind of thinking here - who knows more about the Mezger? Is it the guy who has won the 24hrs of the Nurburgring 5 times and Le Mans twice and now runs the Porsche sports car racing programme http://www.porsche.com/usa/aboutpors...257C43002FC1B2 or the forum experts???
Old 08-25-2015, 10:48 AM
  #20  
JarmoL
Racer
 
JarmoL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Finland
Posts: 382
Received 11 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Interesting piece of history above. My K400 was done in 2003, owned by one of Manthey's racing drivers back then. (he still drives for them)

117 000 km's done now. So nearly 100 000 km with tuned engine. I am using 5w50 Mobil if it matters.. Hmm.. Maybe I should have it dynoed as well.
Old 08-25-2015, 11:23 AM
  #21  
Cheburator
Rennlist Member
 
Cheburator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1,342
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JarmoL
Interesting piece of history above. My K400 was done in 2003, owned by one of Manthey's racing drivers back then. (he still drives for them)

117 000 km's done now. So nearly 100 000 km with tuned engine. I am using 5w50 Mobil if it matters.. Hmm.. Maybe I should have it dynoed as well.
The engine is so well designed/built, I don't see a reason why it would not last double that provided it is maintained properly.

And contrary to what some in the UK say, they do make their claimed bhp numbers, but just need a proper dyno set up, with the correct air feed to the carbon shroud and cup filter. Dyno-ing a K400 on a standard dyno is a waste of time as the car sucks in air nicely warmed up by the cats and as a result it goes in stupid mode, where it shows 340bhp...

P.S. My car was co-owned by Michael Eschmann - also a driver for Manthey and at one time a partner in Manthey Racing.
Old 08-25-2015, 02:00 PM
  #22  
mistermct
Racer
 
mistermct's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 453
Received 16 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by NXI20
There's a common misconception that "thick" oil means higher oil pressure - it doesn't. The pump has a pressure relief valve that won't allow more than 5 bar of pressure. What "thick" oil does give you is higher pressure at low revs when the oil becomes really hot (at anything over ~4K RPM, you should be worried if you don't see 5 bar). When I change it, I always do it with the engine up to temp & it still comes out like water. The thicker oil is more resistant to having the oil film on components break down under extreme heat & load. I run a Syvecs ECU which won't turn the ignition circuit on when starting the car until it sees 2 bar of oil pressure so there's never any real load on the engine until the oil is circulating. I'm sure this helps longevity too.

My indie uses 10W60 exclusively in all the Mezger engines they service & have done for years.
Thicker oil yields more pressure for a given flow rate. Pressure can be reduced by regulating pressure (as you noted) and thus reducing flow or using thinner oil and maintaining or even increasing flow rate.

Edit: this is incompressible non-ideal fluid dynamics


Originally Posted by NXI20
Higher plastic content to increase viscosity in oil? Not heard that one; care to point to an authoritative source?
Have you seen the "Porsche Classic" range of oils that Porsche are now pushing for the older air-cooled cars? For engines over 3 litres it's 10W60

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessori...ghts/motoroil/

Increased thermal load? Compared to the amount of heat generated by an NA engine producing over 100BHP/litre? Really?

Sure, it's a trade-off & yes, there's going to be a bit more drag on components with thicker oil but ultimately all that's going to cost is a tiny percentage of the overall power. I'd sooner sacrifice a bit of power for superior wear protection.

YMMV.
Pressure relief valve engaged means less fluid flow to engine (some to engine, some to bypass) -> lowered ability to extract heat from the moving parts. This is where higher thermal loads of high viscosity oils comes from. This only applies when there are substantial differences in viscosity which is at lower operating temps...

Edit: Lower flow rate -> oil is in contact with parts longer -> transfer more heat to oil. Assuming this is more significant than shear effects. Could be wrong.
Low flow rate (or higher pressure) applies mainly at normal street temps (and especially lower) where there is a more significant difference in viscosity (SAE grade specs):
40 grade: 12.5-16.3cS @100C; 2.9cS @150C
60 grade: 21.9-26.1cS @100C; 3.7cS @150C

At the 150C viscosities, flow rate and cooling//lubrication effects are very similar between the oil specs.

Originally Posted by NXI20
The Classic oil was in reference to the assertion that Porsche don't recommend 10W60 oil. 20 years ago they didn't for the 993, now they are. Times change. I've always used 10W60 in my 993 but Porsche have only recently started to agree with me Lightweight oil is being recommended for today's engines for reasons of fuel economy, emissions & fast warmup, not necessarily because it's the best thing for the engine (although it might). BMW recommend 10W60 for their M-sport engines such as the E46 M3.

And you seem to be forgetting that my engine has done 127K miles without any wear to the surfaces touched by those bearings - I prefer empirical evidence like that over theory.

If I was racing, I would do many things differently. I'm not, I'm having fun doing 6,000 track miles per year. My car was still as quick as my friends who have 3.8 GT3s & 3.8RSs so it can't be having that much of an effect.

Another thing I forgot to mention is about the 185,000 mile car referenced in a post above. Guess who looked after that car - my shop that always puts 10W60 in GT3s.

QED
Mainly track use? At higher track temps (as you noted your use above) most oils will have very similar viscosity at high oil temperatures (>300F). This is likely why you are seeing decent wear for your situation.

Oil is like tires -> needs to be for the right application. Given that many street drive AND track their cars the marginally higher viscosity of a 60 grade vs 40 grade oil at track temp may not be worth the sacrifice of substantially higher viscosity at cold start and normal driving. Almost all oils are too thick at cold start to protect properly.

Edit: Bob is the oil guy has a great summary on oil selection and cold temp viscosity: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-201/

Originally Posted by ssigarto
As a former owner of a number of BMWs including an E46 M3 and E60 M5, i can attest that indeed BMW recommended the Castrol 10W-60 oil. I can also mention that as the engines in those cars aged, many of them suffered rod bering failures. A good number of us chose to use Mobil 1 0W-40 in our BMW M cars.
If many of these are street-driven cars the thinner oil would protect better - flow more and be less "too-thick" at cold temps. Newer synthetics will also have higher film strength than older synthetics/mineral oils and will offer improved protection over the super-thick oil recommendations of 20+ years ago.

Edit: Again with Bob: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-107/ look at the comparison table of a few of the SJ vs SL test criteria... lower maximum cam wear + lifter specs offers better protection with newer standards and oils. In short... newer oil has better standards of protection.

Last edited by mistermct; 08-26-2015 at 01:06 AM. Reason: added reference info
Old 08-25-2015, 02:05 PM
  #23  
porschedog
Rennlist Member
 
porschedog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Hollywood, Florida
Posts: 5,652
Received 320 Likes on 208 Posts
Default

everybody knows Forum Experts have the Best info - they read something somewhere sometime ago on the internet
Old 08-25-2015, 02:13 PM
  #24  
mistermct
Racer
 
mistermct's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 453
Received 16 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by porschedog
everybody knows Forum Experts have the Best info - they read something somewhere sometime ago on the internet
I'll take the bait... I'll go back and add references. Always good to have science support the soapbox.
Old 08-25-2015, 04:25 PM
  #25  
Kaizu
Instructor
 
Kaizu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Nürburgring I hope
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am no oil professional nor have strict opinions about the matter.

But if mods and a lot track driving, I would use Castrol 10W60.

I have not found any professional motorsport shop in Europe that has a track record of using these engines in endurance races that would suggest using another oil than that.

I have done 81k kms on track with a 996TT, the car sees only track and some autobahn runs. No ordinary street driving.
Most track driving is on Nürburging so on each lap there's heavy engine load up to 6th gear with full throttle.

Engine is still original even though it has had bigger turbos and more boost since it was _new_. That's crazy amount of hours at full boost.

I give the car extreme beating each time I use it and I don't care at all if the motor blows tomorrow, because still the durability has been much better than anyone could have expected. Mezger rocks!
Old 08-25-2015, 05:56 PM
  #26  
997rs4.0
Race Car
 
997rs4.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Europe
Posts: 4,487
Received 132 Likes on 61 Posts
Default Longevity/durability of Mezger engines in 996/997 GT3's

What oil do they use in the cup cars?
Old 08-25-2015, 08:35 PM
  #27  
lax01
Three Wheelin'
 
lax01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,536
Received 23 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 997rs4.0
What oil do they use in the cup cars?
Yeah...I'd be curious about this too. Also which Castrol 10w-60 oil are people using? The TWS 10w-60 that the S54/S60 (BMW) use? Do you get it at BMW dealers? That stuff is expensive...

I've been running M1 0w-40 for about 4k miles (1 year worth of time) and I need to switch it soon. Am planning on getting another oil analysis as well from Blackstone when I change the oil.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:51 AM
  #28  
spiller
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
spiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 2,573
Received 351 Likes on 217 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 997rs4.0
What oil do they use in the cup cars?
Given how regularly they rebuild the engines i'd hazard a guess at whatever extracts the most HP. Would also be interested to know though.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:54 AM
  #29  
spiller
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
spiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 2,573
Received 351 Likes on 217 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lax01
Yeah...I'd be curious about this too. Also which Castrol 10w-60 oil are people using? The TWS 10w-60 that the S54/S60 (BMW) use? Do you get it at BMW dealers? That stuff is expensive...

I've been running M1 0w-40 for about 4k miles (1 year worth of time) and I need to switch it soon. Am planning on getting another oil analysis as well from Blackstone when I change the oil.
The TWS can be had by the 20L drum at around $350 AUD. I'd suspect you could find it a lot cheaper than that in your country. Dealer will most likely rape you if you buy it by the liter from them. Not sure why you would want to use this oil in your GT3 though? It was specifically developed to go into M engines that drink oil like its water.
Old 08-26-2015, 05:25 AM
  #30  
Cheburator
Rennlist Member
 
Cheburator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1,342
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by spiller
The TWS can be had by the 20L drum at around $350 AUD. I'd suspect you could find it a lot cheaper than that in your country. Dealer will most likely rape you if you buy it by the liter from them. Not sure why you would want to use this oil in your GT3 though? It was specifically developed to go into M engines that drink oil like its water.
That is another misconception about Castrol 10W60... It started off as Castrol RS 10W60 way before BMW's /// M engines supposedly started to drink oil... Then it was re-branded as TWS, which stood for Ten W Sixty and now it is called Castrol Edge... There have been some subtle changes in the formulation, particularly with regards to ZDDP content, but in general it has been around since way beyond the first engine it had approval for - the S54.

Secondly, as a serial BMW ///M owner I beg to differ on the drinking oil stuff. The 4-cylinder engines do not drink oil at all. The 6-cylinder engines do not drink oil if in good health either. I have had two S54s from new - in a M3 SMG and in a Z4MC coupe. Still have the M3 on 95k miles, sold the Z4MC after 50k miles, of which about 20k miles were spent on track. The first V8 - the S62 drank oil, but then BMW changed the design of the rings and they stopped. The S85 drinks oil, but it is a V10 that revs to 8250rpm, the size of the piston skirts is laughable and it is in a alusil block. What exactly did you expect? FYI, the S85 consumes about 1.5ltrs of oil every 3000miles. About par for the course on a 996 or 997 Carrera engine...

P.S. You all talk about thermal this, thermal that. Viscosity this, viscosity that. Go and read what happens to film strength once the oil is diluted with fuel. Ah, perhaps 10W60 is a lot better at that? And perhaps most GT3s/TT spent a lot more time at WOT than normal?

I am out of this debate as I am really struggling with some people who are armchair mechanics arguing indirectly with one of the most successful Porsche teams globally. Perhaps I should print this thread and take it to Manthey next time my car goes in for servicing so that the wrenches there can have a right laugh?


Quick Reply: Longevity/durability of Mezger engines in 996/997 GT3's



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:20 AM.