I bled my brakes with a Motive bleeder and SRF fluid and now brakes feel soft and mushy. I've done this many times before on my (now gone) Boxster and few times on the GT3 without a problem. What could I have messed up?

I remember there were a lot of bubbles coming out of one caliper which I realized came from a sloppy connection between the exit hose and the valve. Once I fixed that, there were no bubbles coming through. I pushed a lot of fluid through to make sure. Could this be the culprit? What are some other ways that I could have introduced air into the system?

Any links with a proper bleeding procedure? What's the recommended pressure for the Motive bleeder for our cars?

Do many here use Speed Bleeders? Together with Motive?

Thanks much!

 

I have a track day tomorrow so any help is appreciated. Doing another bleed right now...

 

the motive has the feed tube on the one side of the bottom of the bottle. If the fluid is tilted away from the feed tube it will feed air into the system.

Did that possibly happen?

 

I use 10-15 psi with the motive

I use motive + speed bleeders when a full flush is required.

can't see how a bad connection on the catch hose on the bleeder valve could have introduced any air esp not with the speed bleeders.

 

The Motive feed tube into the reservoir is not all fluid -- there's air mixed in it but I don't think that's a problem. Some people use the Motive with no fluid at all -- just to pressurize the system. I don't think there's a way for air to enter the system from there as long as there's enough fluid in the reservoir.

I don't have speed bleeders, btw. How do they make bleeding easier (vs using Motive)?

 

I bought speed bleeders but have not yet installed them. They appear to be fool proof. Squish the pedal and the valve in the bleeder opens and out comes the old fluid and air. Release the brake pedal and the ball bearing in the bleeder returns to close off the valve. Rinse and repeat for each corner until the new fluid has replaced the old..

I hope I am not oversimplifying this, but I am hoping this is how it works.

Hope you find your solution

 

I'd suggest doing some manual pedal bleeds if your in a rush for a track day. Bleed, drive the car around the block and then bleed again. I like the motive for complete fluid flushes but nothing beats a manual bleed to me.

I also run the Motive with no fluid. I just watch the reservoir level

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. During the bleed today, there were a few bubbles here and there but the inside left-rear valve had tons of them! I must have gone through at least 1qt of SRF on this bleed. Must have had a brain-fart during my previous bleed and forgot to bleed that valve. During a short test in my driveway the pedal seems to have gone to its old hard self. Hopefully this resolves the problem. Will be back if it didn't.

 

Good luck. I use a Motiv bleeder at 15 psi on my car and have always gotten good results.

 

Thanks! Same here, no idea what I had messed up the other day. One thing I noticed was that I was still seeing some blue in the bled fluid even after my race shop had supposedly flushed out the old ATE Blue out of the system and replaced it with SRF (yellow) about a month ago. Shouldn't I only be bleeding yellow after a full flush? My problematic bleed was the first after this shop flush. Many moving parts in this story, it seems.

 

Thanks. Can anyone with speed bleeders installed confirm that this is how it's done? If so, how do you know if/that the bubbles have stopped when you're in the car pressing the pedal?

 

I have as well. I use it to pressurize only (ie, no fluid). I've found it takes a decent amount of fluid to bleed all the air and that the tiniest bubbles (like grains of sand) come out at the end of a couple of refills of the master cylinder... These are fairly big calipers/long lines so be prepared to use/lose a bit of fluid, at least in my experience.

 

Motiv @ 15 psi here also with no fluid; simply refill master as needed. You will see blue for a long time.

 

Oh, and no pedal action for me, just pressurize and crack the bleeders.

 

yes yes yes- SPEED BLEEDERS Rock !! Yes- that simple- another trick is to wedge something on brake pedal to slightly depressed. Then you can remove old bleed screws without fluid coming out. careful not to cross thread. First installation takes a little more turning effort because of sealant. Best bleed results I've ever had. Been using them for 15+ years 10S is size for GT3.