skl

For those of you already in possession of your car, what is the break in procedure? How many miles before you can "get on it?" And what RPM are you limited to for how many miles? (The M3 I'm trading on the GT3 required 1200 miles before you could go over 5000 rpm).

TNGT3

not to exceed 4,200 rpm for 1,000 miles re: owner's manual

Sloth

All engines are run in Stuttgart before install for 30 minutes. During this time the engine is checked for max power and torque. I would still follow the break in limits per the manual.

RR

Check this link...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

The cars are motors are broken in at the factory. The only reason you may want to stay away from higher rpms, is to let the rest of the car's parts "ease" into the rest or "each other..ie transmission and motor, suspension parts and wheels, etc.

From what I have learned I would suggest that one drives the car THROUGH the RPM range but STAYING AWAY from redline.
eg, at higway speeds in third gear run the rpm range from 3000rpm to 6000 rpm and then pull right off the throttle. Don't cruise at any rpm point for any long period of time. If you are running at 3rd for a while, switch to 4th for a while, and then to 5th, and then maybe back down to third.

The worst thing you can do is to run the motor for long periods of time at the same rpm whether it is 3000 or 7000rpm.

Viken

The owner's manual is largely lawyer speak. I would drive the car very normally by varying the engine speeds as much as I could. Hitting the redline occasionally will not harm the engine either. However, I would opt to limit the revs to about 5k rpms as much as possible.

TNGT3

Had a few minutes to type this up from my 911 GT3 Owner's Manual

page 16

Break-in hints for the first 1,000 miles/1,600 kilometers

The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche.

Despite the most modern, high precision manufacturing methods, it cannot be completely avoided that the moving parts have to wear in with each other. This wearing-in occurs mainly in the first 1,000 miles/1,600 kilometers.

Therefore:

--Preferably take longer trips.

--Avoid frequent cold starts with short-distance driving whenever possible.

--Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.

--Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm's.

--Do not run a cold engine at high rpm either in Neutral or in gear.

--Do not let the engine labor, especially when driving uphill. Shift to the next lower gear in time (use the most favorable rpm range).

--Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.

--Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, etc. during the first 1,000 miles/1,600 kilometers.

There may be a slight stiffness in the steering, gear-shifting or other controls during the break-in period which will gradually disappear.

gmolinari

I told dealer where I got the vehicle that I was being disciplined in holding the engine under 5k, and this was his response (taken from a longer email):

"The break in hints in the owners manual are worded as they are because they were written by the attorneys! (i.e. disclaimer oriented stuff.)
The engine in your GT3 was hand assembled, put on a dyno, then run at varying speeds for 40 minutes. This is done for 2 reasons- one to make sure that the engine meets the minimum performance output (some do exceed the stated specs, but all will, in the case of the GT3, produce 381hp.) and secondly- to break the engine in. If you pick up the car at the factory, the break in instructions are to warn you that the brakes are not completely seated, nor are the tires sufficiently scrubbed to give maximum brake efficiency. They further warn you not to let the engine "lug" in any gear for too long, nor do full throttle inputs when the engine is cold.
That is it!
The engine is already broke in, and has fresh Mobile 1 in it (following break in on the dyno, they drain and replace the oil, so you've already had one oil change.)"

hope this helps some.

LSM

Most dealers are idiots. They are not car guys and like to talk out of their ***. Yours may be different though Anyway, I would follow break-in. This was recently discussed on the Turbo board and Steve from rennsports systems basically said you should break the car in. The tires, brakes, and engine conponents need to be broken-in. Do a search, you will find the thread. Just wanted to add, just because Porsche runs a car hard for 10 miles, does not mean the car should not be broken in. The purpose of running the cars is to make sure it makes at lease a minimum HP rating before it is transported. This is far from a green light to rip your car everyday from the get go.

GT3 owners consider yourself lucky, my break-in was 2000 miles My owners manual says that exact same thing except, where yours says 1000 miles mine says 2000

-Lou

Scott5

And these "break-in" threads always make mention of the fact that break -in is as much for the driver as it is for the car. A couple hours spent with a little extra caution lets you learn the habits of your new car in a more controlled environment.

Viken

Not the one gmolinari spoke to.

yongster

My plan was to change the oil and filter after the break in period. Are you telling me that this is not necessary?. I can wait until 24,000 kms. or 1 year?.

Karl S

I changed my engine oil and transmission fluid after 700 miles and a dyno breakin. For $65 it's cheap insurance, so who cares if it is technically necessary or not?

Karl

RR

I thought the same but my mechanic said that the "dirty" oil helps with seating the valves....I'm changine mine now at 2300 miles....

LSM

Obviously!

-Lou