marucus1

I know Mobil 1 0 to 40 w is Porsche recommend
Should I stick with it or change to 10 40w since I'm in Nevada
I got the torque 52 and 44 lb on the oil tank
But no specs on torque on the transmission?
Do I need to stick with Mobilube pt x 75w -90 on the transmission oil?
How much to fill up?
Do I need to change the differential fluid also!

Any suggested Indy brand?

When is the interval on both the oil change?


Thanks

powdrhound

I run M1 5W50 but my engine is Turbo. I think that's an approved oil for the NA Mezger also in hot climates.

Torque on transmission is 22ft/lb

Mobil 1 Delvac 75w90

Basically 1 gallon. Pour it in till it starts to flow out of the fill hole.

Differential is part of the gearbox. There is no separate fill there.

I change both engine and gear oil every 8 track days..

Macster

Not sure how a 10w-40 oil would be of any additional benefit in NV, since its high temperature viscosity (40) is the same as that of Mobil 1 0w-40 oil.

Mobil 1 0w-40 should be fine even in NV. While I have driven in NV some, the bulk of my high temperature driving as been in AZ.

My experience with my Boxster in AZ driving in 116F heat was there was no problem. And with my 996 Turbo again in AZ in 118F heat there was no problem.

Heck, it has even gotten up 111F here in northern CA where I live and both cars have been fine.

However, if you want a bit more viscosity switch to Mobil 1 5w-50 oil (not a typo for 15w-50!).

Recently I decided to switch both of my cars to this oil as it doesn't get that cold where I live but it does get quite hot (111F as noted above, and hotter: 116F is the record), and I opted to go to a "thicker" oil.

But the Turbo has covered over 120K miles with Mobil 1 0w-40 and the Boxster has covered over 286K miles with Mobil 1 0w-40 with no apparent oiling issues.

I have the tranny/diff fluids changed at my dealer. Changing the tranny/diff fluids is a pain for the DIY'er.

For the Boxster, the tranny/diff fluid is the fluid service bargain of the year. 0.3 hours labor, and then the cost of the nearly 3l of fluid. One time the service department gave me the fluid for $5/liter as it had some left over from some warranty work.

The Turbo requires a bit more labor as there are more panels that have to come off to expose the tranny/rear diff and the front diff (AWD). Then of course the Turbo requires more fluid than the Boxster but I do not recall the amount.

I do not know the recommended oil/filter change interval for your car. I ignore the ones for my cars and just change the oil/filter every 5K miles. (IIRC, the Boxster's schedule was 15K miles oil, 30K miles filter. What utter nonsense.)

Transmission/diff fluid change schedule is IIRC 90K miles, but you should check your car's owners manual. For my cars and the 90K mile schedule, I generally cut this to 60K or sometimes even fewer miles.

Spyerx

I do same. Both every 8 track days

For oil I use Torco SR5 GDL 5w-40

Devlac in the tranny

christallon

My mechanic is now recommending 10/50 here in So Cal. They are using an Elf product called Total Quartz. It's a synthetic and apparently works really well here. Not sure about the 10 over the 5 for start up. Any one else heard of this oil?

enthusiast

See the Do It Yourself information for details.

Macster

There are a number of 10w-XX, 15w-XX and even 20w-XX oils around. Some are used by other auto makers. BMW IIRC uses a 10w-60 oil for its M3 engines, or used to.

Ferrari I think calls out a 20w-XX oil for at least one of its engines.

All I can offer is Porsche only approves 0w-40, 5w-40, and one 5w-50 oil for its engines. The 'W' number is for low temperature viscosity. This ensures the oil flows very promptly at engine start.

While everyone thinks this is for the main and rod bearings, and there is no denying they are critical and need proper lubrication promptly at engine start , the other concern is the VarioCam Plus system hardware.

Of the two features offered by VarioCam Plus: variable valve timing and variable (low/high) valve lift; the valve lift adjustment is I believe the more demanding of proper oiling.

With my 03 Turbo just a moment after the engine has started the low lift feature is selected. The engine briefly reacts and the oil pressure gage shows a bit of an oil pressure drop concurrent with the engine reacting, as the DME switches the engine over from high lift to low lift.

The concern with venturing off the reservation with an oil, selecting say a 10w-XX oil, is the "10w" oil's cold flow characteristics are enough different -- read slower -- that the switch over to the low lift feature could be done before there is sufficient oil flow or oil supply. This can result in accelerated wear and tear of the low lift valve hardware (specifically the locking pin that is move by oil pressure). Insufficient oil flow and supply could also have the main and rod bearings experience a momentary drop in oil pressure and even supply which could result in accelerated wear and tear.

While I hate to go against a tech's recommendations I would seriously question a tech recommending a 10w-50 oil for these engines.

If you want to the high temperature protection offered by a "50" oil use Mobil 5w-50 oil (not a typo for 15w-50!). Not only does the engine benefit from the higher viscosity when the oil/engine is hot, but it also is protected at cold start with a low temperature viscosity of 5w.

My limited experience with indy shops is they often times work out a deal with an oil supplier for a specific oil and stock this oil. This gives them a higher profit margin on the oil. 'course, it also means one size, make that one oil fits all cars.

I ran into this once when I took my Boxster to an indy shop. The shop wanted to use 15w-50 oil -- the shop did a lot of air-cooled cars and used this oil even though for cars since the mid-80's Porsche has not approved this oil. When I balked at having 15w-50 oil used in my Boxster and wanted to supply my own oil -- Mobil 1 0w-40 oil -- the indy shop manager refused saying he needed the profit margin of the oil (along the parts) he supplied to counter his lower labor costs. Not wiling to compromise on the oil for my car to help the indy shop's bottom line I decided to take my Boxster elsewhere.

kgorman

Smart to take the car else ware