Alternator issue: Is it common?
09-09-2013, 09:42 AM
#19
Race Car
Steven great post. The Alternator really is a pretty simple swap with common hand tools.
09-09-2013, 10:09 AM
#20
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had the same problem. Sometimes the cause is a poorly installed Battery Kill switch. These are rarely installed properly and this will cause the diodes to fail...
Ray
Ray
09-09-2013, 11:27 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Yep, happened to me earlier in the year at Mosport. Lost a day because of it.
Put a new Bosch unit in and had the old one rebuilt and is back in the trailer. If it happens again, I doubt I will loose a session.
Put a new Bosch unit in and had the old one rebuilt and is back in the trailer. If it happens again, I doubt I will loose a session.
09-09-2013, 12:49 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
I would just go with a new one (not rebuilt). A Bosch AL0815N is a direct fit and has a freewheel pulley that helps keep your belt from flopping around. My 2004 did not have a freewheel pulley so I ordered the 2005 GT3 alternator which does. Amazon has them new for $250.
Steps to remove:
-Disconnect the battery
-Disconnect the electrical plug from the mass air flow sensor.
-Remove the complete air cleaner housing.
-Relieve the belt tension by turning the tensioner bolt (circled in yellow) clockwise and remove the belt.
-Remove the idler roller under the alternator (circled in green).
-Remove the left bolt (red arrow) from behind.
-Loosen the right bolt (circled in red) about three turns only
-Smack the bolt head squarely with your trusty copper BFH to loosen the steel bushing in the alternator housing, then finish removing the bolt.
-Carefully slide the alternator towards the rear of the car to gain access to the blue wire plug (note they leave almost no slack)
-Press the plug release towards the center of the alternator and pull off.
-Disconnect the B+ lead.
Takes about 1 hour to R & R.
Steps to remove:
-Disconnect the battery
-Disconnect the electrical plug from the mass air flow sensor.
-Remove the complete air cleaner housing.
-Relieve the belt tension by turning the tensioner bolt (circled in yellow) clockwise and remove the belt.
-Remove the idler roller under the alternator (circled in green).
-Remove the left bolt (red arrow) from behind.
-Loosen the right bolt (circled in red) about three turns only
-Smack the bolt head squarely with your trusty copper BFH to loosen the steel bushing in the alternator housing, then finish removing the bolt.
-Carefully slide the alternator towards the rear of the car to gain access to the blue wire plug (note they leave almost no slack)
-Press the plug release towards the center of the alternator and pull off.
-Disconnect the B+ lead.
Takes about 1 hour to R & R.
09-09-2013, 02:19 PM
#23
As for a trailer- I'm was a frequent flyer with AAA when I had the 930. So far I've been lucky with the GT3. Still no trailer or tow vehicle but the list of preventive items keeps growing. I'll add alternator to my list
09-10-2013, 03:34 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Mine went out at 10K ('05 no freewheel), I had it rebuilt locally. These failures are due to our small/lightweight batteries and heavy alarm system drain. When the car is on, the alternator is constantly working overtime to build a charge - so it burns out sooner than later. Some recommend not locking the car to avoid alarm activation; I have mine on a tender now.
09-10-2013, 03:41 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
09-10-2013, 04:06 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Seems like quite a few of us have had this issue.. Was just curious, that's all.. since I have not had an alternator failure on any of my other cars.. !
Actually did a DE day with 2 batteries and 2 chargers, just swapping and plugged in the car when I come in.. did 3 out of 4 sessions, not bad!
Was able to drive the car to the shop (40 miles away from the track) on a charged up battery after the track day. It is currently waiting to be repaired.
Actually did a DE day with 2 batteries and 2 chargers, just swapping and plugged in the car when I come in.. did 3 out of 4 sessions, not bad!
Was able to drive the car to the shop (40 miles away from the track) on a charged up battery after the track day. It is currently waiting to be repaired.
09-10-2013, 09:52 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Porsche superseded the part number several times. PN 997.603.012.04 was superseded to PN 997.603.012.06 which are both 150 amp alternators. The Bosch unit is the same unit as the 06 number above.
09-10-2013, 10:01 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Mine went out at 10K ('05 no freewheel), I had it rebuilt locally. These failures are due to our small/lightweight batteries and heavy alarm system drain. When the car is on, the alternator is constantly working overtime to build a charge - so it burns out sooner than later. Some recommend not locking the car to avoid alarm activation; I have mine on a tender now.
The freewheel is better. You can test for yourself with your trusty dial indicator or you can search youtube for videos showing what happens with fixed vs. free. My 99 shredded a couple of belts until I changed to the freewheel when the TSB was published.
09-11-2013, 09:40 PM
#29
Mine went unexpectedly while going for ice cream with my daughter about 1 month ago... About 46K miles. It is only the voltage regulator that fails... I fixed mine with part 038 903 803EX replacing W0133-1613555 from Autopartsway... ~$46. Once out of the car, just a few screws to remove the VR and replace... Nothing to it... Lou
09-11-2013, 11:27 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The car is now fixed by the shop.. but just for future reference, how do you guys know if it is just the voltage regulator or the whole alternator? Do they have different symptoms?