tguaturbo

I am on my first set of yellows up front on girodisc slotted rottors. I think I might have about 5mm left and was at the track today thinking I might have enough for one last quick session.

The second half of my run, I noticed what I felt and heard to be a rubbing/grinding when I would brake so I went in to the pits and called it a day. Is it possible the material is held on by rivots of some sort and that might have been it?

Or, do they just start to feel/sound that way once they are at the end due to the compound being that thin? The tech at the track inspected both inner and outer pads as well as rotors and said he did not see any sign of metal to rotor contact and he felt I still had at least one more session but I did not want to take the chance.

Sensors are not connected so I have left word with Craig for a new set to be shipped out.

Thoughts?

tguaturbo

Just gaged it with my mm gage and it looks like 5-6 mm on the otter pad, not sure about the inners.

serickson

Not sure how the pads are held to the backing plate. I run Pagid RS29 front and rear. Once you get down to the thickness of the steel backing plate (approximately 5mm) you need to pay attention to the wear. Depending on the track you could have at least 1-2 additional sessions. What I have witnessed and confirmed with others is that the top part of the front pad tends to wear more than the bottom. It is the opposite for the rear pads. To help extend my pad life I flip my pads on the same wheel from inside to outside to even out the wear when the variation is approximately 2mm. I have gone as low as 3.4mm but that would be my limit. What I have experienced is as they get below 5mm the pads start to feel different, softer feeling. When checking make sure you compare not only outside and inside but top to bottom. I have not had issue with rubbing or grinding as they wear. Did have noise once and found it was a dried leaf stuck in the caliper rubbing on the rotor. Hope this helps.

tguaturbo

It does help. I will pop them out soon to expect and replace even thought it might be a tad pre-mature just to be safe. Since they are two pc rotors and floating I think, I was wondering if when they get low there might be chatter from the 2 pc vs. 1 pc rotors. First time I run with 2 pc.

himself

IMO, Pagids need to be replaced when the pad thickness is the same as the backing plate. They can't be run down like PFCs. They'll transfer too much heat and they also don't operate as good at that level of thickness.

A few folks have had bad experiences with Pagids getting too low, not bedding them properly and then chunking the pad, and uneven wear (front-to-back on the same pad and side-to-side on the same caliper). Below are some of my pics from a few threads back in 2009 / 2010. Those threads are still here on Rennlist.

I exclusively switched over to PFC sometime in 2010 and haven't looked back.

-td

himself

Here's one:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...-2-parter.html

JohnnyGT3

I have run my pads until you can see what appears to be a soft metal rivet. They are a copper / bronze color and I am not sure if it some wear indicator or the way it attaches the pad together.
I have even gone out and tracked the car knowing these were visible and it was the last run for the pads. When you see them... you know its time.
If you measure the pads, you really need to take them off and look at the entire pad, not just the visible segment. They do not awalys wear evenly and I find the leading inside pad edge goes the fastest.
I would also rotate my pads around like tires for better wear and longevity.
This did not have any noticeable effects on the braking doing this rotating.

gvtesse

I am currently running pagid 29/14's. i swap them out around 5mm since they don't perform as well.

I've been thinking of trying pfc's. do they wear rotors faster than the comparable pagids?

himself

Rotor wear is the same, or even a little less than Pagids. I get around 10-12 weekends (20+ days) out of a set of rotors. Maybe a little more as I've stopped counting. I do know that my rotors last over a year now. I've been using ATE, but will have to switch off soon as they aren't in supply.

-td

tguaturbo

Very helpfull T, thanks!

tguaturbo

where are you guys buying your pagid or pfc pads?

4porsh

http://apexperformance.net/

Gave me good price on PFC pads and i did my homework on price.

tguaturbo

Awsome, thanks! Went with Craig at Rennstore a second time for the yellows. Might try PFC next time.

MC 968CS

My pagid yellows on my gt2 disintegrated as they got down to the backing plate thickness. They also started to detach from the backing plate.

I have tried every pagid pad type over time and I use the blacks in another car and find them great but that is not used on the street much. They are ok on the street and brilliant on the track.

For a new test I swapped to project mu on the gt2 and they seem damn good.

Happy experimenting.

Mikelly

My general rule of thumb has been not to go out for a trackday with less than 9mm of pad material. The ONE time I deviated from that I ended up with backing plate to rotor contact. Never again. Tom, this was on my 996TT, so keep that in mind. Yours is a similar setup to mine.