First DE in the 6GT3 coming up!
#16
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I had this happen at the track and the rest of the day went fine - but we applied blue Loctite to hold in the temporary bolt.
I also had the lwfw with the OE steel pulley and it also eventually backed out - order the aluminum RS pulley, the longer bolt, the washer and use RED Loctite on the new one. Because the RS pulley is aluminum it uses less tq on the bolt so make sure you get the new correct lower tq spec + red Loctite.
I also had the lwfw with the OE steel pulley and it also eventually backed out - order the aluminum RS pulley, the longer bolt, the washer and use RED Loctite on the new one. Because the RS pulley is aluminum it uses less tq on the bolt so make sure you get the new correct lower tq spec + red Loctite.
#17
Nordschleife Master
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So we are not done yet. I'm learning a ton about these cars and it appears that when the LWFW was done it is recommend that the pulley should be replaced with the aluminum cup pulley....the stocker is too heavy. Chris Cervelli walked by and told me that the pin that sheared is not necessary in holding the pulley on.....helps the aligning for sure. So, Chris torqued the pulley, put the belt on and we should be ok for the weekend. Time will tell!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
BTW, car looks amazing.
Not sure what's on the cups, but, as Paul said, 997 RS pulley is perfect.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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So I had a few folks tell me that it is not wise to run the damaged pulley....one risks damage to the crank of there is any movement off center to the damaged pulley. Once again Chris came to the rescue with a Cup aluminum pulley that he had with the longer bolt...it has to be half the weight. We should be good to go!
#20
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This is not my weekend! The clutch decided to let go......I limped back to the pits and I'm about to pour a large cocktail! Time for my first engine drop I guess and while it's out, I I'll do the diff which is shot and have the pipes welded so I don't puke antifreeze.
PJ..... You put in a Cup clutch, right? If so it should be a direct replacement.
PJ..... You put in a Cup clutch, right? If so it should be a direct replacement.
#21
Rennlist Member
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My shop put it in while I was at the hospital with my wife having our first - same clutch that started in 964rs then updated to 993rs then 996rs
Not sure if that is same as cup
Not sure if that is same as cup
#22
Drifting
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Just now reading this thread. Glad you finally got her on the track. Like to hear more about your thoughts about the car on the track. Before you go out next time make sure the Motons are up to pressure so if you play with settings it'll be something to take a baseline from and for future track days.
Sorry to hear you had trouble with the car... Surprised about the clutch!
Sorry to hear you had trouble with the car... Surprised about the clutch!
#23
Rennlist Member
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This is not my weekend! The clutch decided to let go......I limped back to the pits and I'm about to pour a large cocktail! Time for my first engine drop I guess and while it's out, I I'll do the diff which is shot and have the pipes welded so I don't puke antifreeze.
PJ..... You put in a Cup clutch, right? If so it should be a direct replacement.
PJ..... You put in a Cup clutch, right? If so it should be a direct replacement.
#24
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Thread Starter
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Hey Dave, she was better than I expected....felt like an early 911....raw, but better suspension, brakes and of course more HP. I am having to learn throttle modulation, on my Carrera, you would be able to put the peddle to the floor mid corner and Be fine.....not so with this beast ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I had a corner balance/alignment done before the event. We did not change your settings much. Motons were set at 150lbs and right in the middle of 14.....a good place to start. She was pushing a little but as I said above, I was not planning on changin anything till I had more seat time. I'm still at the track helping a few buddies out and will stay for the club Race then pack her up. Glad I trailer!
Yeah, the clutch is odd...zero signs of wear/slippage before the inability to change up/down.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I had a corner balance/alignment done before the event. We did not change your settings much. Motons were set at 150lbs and right in the middle of 14.....a good place to start. She was pushing a little but as I said above, I was not planning on changin anything till I had more seat time. I'm still at the track helping a few buddies out and will stay for the club Race then pack her up. Glad I trailer!
Yeah, the clutch is odd...zero signs of wear/slippage before the inability to change up/down.
#26
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Talk to me more Andy......what have you heard ? When parked with the engine off, I have no problem selecting a gear. When running, I cannot get any gear. If I put the car into gear and then start it and release the clutch, I am able to move but not change into the next gear. What happens to the pressure plate?
#27
Race Car
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Yeah. Sounds like pressure plate. Read the 997 GT3 forum look for the thread on failed 3.8 pressure plates, sadly the 3.6 cars seemed immune but lately more and more reported cases.
Same symptoms, stuck in gear when car is running.
Not promising for any of us
I'll find the thread and link it tomorrow when I'm in the office "working"
Same symptoms, stuck in gear when car is running.
Not promising for any of us
I'll find the thread and link it tomorrow when I'm in the office "working"
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#28
Nordschleife Master
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It breaks and prevents full release of the clutch. If you put in gear and then start, can you feel the car trying to move ahead even if you have the clutch pedal fully depressed?
#29
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Francois, If I put it in gear when the engine is not started and then start the car and release the clutch the car will move forward pretty much as normal but there is some vibration that does not seem normal. There is no noticable "creep" when the clutch is depressed.
#30
Nordschleife Master
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Ok, but still something funky going on with the pressure plate, I say. Clutch and pp take a lot of abuse and are pretty much the weak link in the drive-train, which is a good thing.
No need to drop the engine for the clutch BTW... unless you want to do the coolant fittings. Good luck.
No need to drop the engine for the clutch BTW... unless you want to do the coolant fittings. Good luck.