philooo

Is it normal for the car to lift up when turning the steering wheel, when the gt3 sway bars at set at full stiff ?

I had the gt3 sway at the min (far end) and when I turned my wheel the car would not do anything special, now that I am at full stiff in the front sway (first hole), i can see my car front fender lift on the opposite side of the turn.

Say I stand still, I turn the steering wheel to the left and I can see my right fender going up, I assume the sway bar push the body car up, around the sway bushing...normal doctor ?

bobsan

What drop links standard or after market does the vehicle have ??

Serge944

The car will naturally lift up due to the caster angle. It's also possible that your droplinks are binding near full lock.

85Gold

+1. Some aftermarket front drop links that fasten to the pinch bolt severly torque the sway bar at full lock. This is why I only run OEM drop links.

Peter

philooo

I am using the Tarett drop links with the standard gt3 sway in the front.

The whole adjustment of the drop link and 'load' adjustment seems a bit controversial so I wanted to make sure that was ok.

I have actually read that the installation of the drop links should be done with the car on the ground and with no pre-load...

If the car is on jack and the drop links are adjusted with no pre-load I assume it does the same thing considering both wheel will push on the suspension at the same time and the bar will simply rise up on both side... Assuming the car weight the same on both sides.

AudiOn19s

big assumption there.

Take it to your local oil change place that has a drive over pit, throw them $20 and get them to let you get down in the pit to set the pre load. Just need to do one side don't try adjusting both.

Also as it was pointed out the geometry on a C2 with GT3 bars isn't as ideal as it could be because the upper link mount location is on the pinch bolt instead of a spin-on collar like on the GT3. Tarett makes a solution to put it on a collar like on the GT3 if you have coilovers on your car.

85Gold

Phil when you turn the wheel the drop links lift up on 1 side and push down on the other side which is causing the torque you are seeing. I run the stock drop links for just this reason. With the car on the ground wheels straight if you can reach around and wiggle "tech term" the drop links on the monoballs then you are not binding.

Peter

bobsan

ah well there's your problem, those particular Tarret links (and others, by the way) are total wrong for this car.

any drop link should connect to the arm/perch provided and not the damper pinch bolt. so yes, vehicle will raise up when wheel's turned.

sell them on ebay and buy the correct longer links.

Tarret do make a longer drop link that's correct and attaches to the arm.

All of this has nothing to do with the actual adjustment of the link itself, that's a whole 'nother story

Tarett Engineering

Attaching to the pinch bolt is the only option that you currently have for your car. If you had a threaded body shock, then you would have some other options. Two things happen when you turn the steering wheel. As you turn to the wheel, the caster will make one wheel move downward and the other wheel move upward. Overall, this will make the car lean in one direction and possibly also lift in front. The other thing that happens is that the swaybar will load up due to the drop link geometry, which starts off at an angle. Setting the bars stiffer will probably increase this effect, which also makes the car lean.

The GT3 uses a bracket on the shock to connect too. This bracket allows you to set the drop link geometry to minimize the swaybar windup effect. It also uses a longer link to further improve the geometry. My extended drop link design is intended to improve on the GT3 design by retaining its adjustability and further increasing the length of the drop link.

With your stock shocks, the only drop link attachment point is the pinch bolt. I wouldn’t really call it a problem. It works fine, just not as good of a design as the extended or GT3 design. The majority of the 996/986 front drop links that we sell are the standard pinch bolt attachment design. The extended ones are preferred by many of the hard core racers. In theory, they provide a little better handling in the form of reduced understeer on tight corners because they don’t wind up the bar as much. If you change to the PSS9’s or 10’s, you can use the extended design. Also, I think that the GT3 parts (drop links and brackets) will work with the PSS9’s. Hope that all makes sense.

Ira

philooo

Thanks Ira,

I changed the setting in the front from full stiff to one from full stiff and also spent some time adjusting the drop links with the car on the ground to avoid any pre-load and it works fine. no more car body going up and down.

I'll try again later to use the full stiff position but I have to be ready for tomorrow track day so I could not test that today... I'll keep you posted as I want to be able to play with all the setting.

BTW, those adjustable drop links require some time anbd attention to set them up correctly.

They go in all direction and when you tight them up you have high risk to make them slide and thus not being torqued with the best angle. Not only the lenght needs to be correct but also the bolts needs to be as centered to the monoball as possible so that they can move around in all direction up to the max... not easy to do.

bobsan

well done Ira for diving in on this and explaining, the problem is a relatively easy one that being that the sway bar is on the 'X' axis and the pinch bolt on the 'Y' axis.

if the drop link's connected to the 'X' (GT3 etc.) it swivels in sympathy to the sway bar, if it's connected on the 'Y' it pushes and pulls against the sway bar.

Just a thought, would it be poss. to make a small bracket that would attach to the pinch bolt and effectively move the mounting position round to the 'X' axis.

then all your beautifully made short drop links would swivel nicely to the sway bars.

Tarett Engineering

Good suggestion. A while back I looked at doing something like that for the 996TT. Their pinch bolt comes off at an extreme angle that is much worse. Not only is the geometry worse, but they need a curved drop link to clear the strut. The extended drop link design addresses and solves the problem, but not for stock (non-threaded body) shocks, and it’s relatively expensive. Thanks for the suggestion. I think it’s probably worth taking another look at.

HiWind

this is a very interesting discussion - any news Ira?