RS bumper upper radiator slots
#31
Three Wheelin'
Hey Dan - I might be misunderstanding but are you saying the four holes facing down, behind the spliiter ie under the bumper were originally closed? Do you supect that you lost something at some point? Mine are open and car only has 18k kms on it. This project will be my first body-altering mod but it makes solid sense based on data posted earlier (thanks all! )
#32
Race Car
Will ask in JHB - our RHD cars must been pretty similar and as one shop got 30 for SA they know the cars very well. Ps - per my new book (posted above in 'what did you get') there are some nice blue 996 rs shots.
#33
Three Wheelin'
I am in the middle of doing the radiator tilt, It looks like it is necessary to trim the airscoops (in the area of the attached pic ) for the side radiators because the tilted radiator now protrudes into the space those scoops would occupy. Is this what others have experienced ? Mines a 99 C2, I'm not sure if the radiator shrouds/scoops are different on the 6 GT3.
#34
Admin
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From a quick look the front / side air ducts (and middle radiator) appear to be the same, but I only had to trim the centre duct after tilting the radiator.
#35
Three Wheelin'
OK, well I may need to get a bit creative with the side scoops to achieve the desired effect. Have just fabricated a chimney to re-direct the middle radiator exit air, that should do the trick.
#36
Three Wheelin'
In order to have the side radiator scoops sit in their original positions I did need to cut a relief into them to clear the corners of the forward tilted radiator. A dremel with a little sanding drum worked very well for that task.
A dremel with various cutting discs & sanding drums/stones was also the tool of choice for cutting the bumper slots too. I figured I'd do it the hard way and make the slots with the varying radius curve on the lower edge. The curves seem to compliment the lines nicely.
I've also included a pic of my practise go at embossing the mesh to fit within the slots. That's worked out better than I had hoped so I'll definitely go with that style for the mesh.
I'll post up a pic of the chimney later today once it is in place.
A dremel with various cutting discs & sanding drums/stones was also the tool of choice for cutting the bumper slots too. I figured I'd do it the hard way and make the slots with the varying radius curve on the lower edge. The curves seem to compliment the lines nicely.
I've also included a pic of my practise go at embossing the mesh to fit within the slots. That's worked out better than I had hoped so I'll definitely go with that style for the mesh.
I'll post up a pic of the chimney later today once it is in place.
#37
Race Car
But back to the mod - has anyone measured the temp of their front (mid) radiators post the rad-tilt mod and compared it to the original situation? Or is that impossible to do properly? Sounds like something you might do Oz951? (great detailing page on your site - super good info thanks!)
Also, just to clarify please: so the 997 GT3 comes without these vents because the radiator is tilted and the top vents next to the bootlid lip do the trick. So the mid-rad tilt on the 996GT3 mimics this newer approach and thus allows for the under-bumper vents to be covered which helps increase downforce - right? Has anyone tested if this 7 approach works better than the old 6 one or is it a case of the gains from downforce are better than the loss from slightly higher temp w/o the underbumper vents? Also with the the RS CF hood, is there risk of the top-vented heat impacting on it??
Apologies for the rehash - 'mild case' of newbie flu - Thanks and best wishes to all for next year - may your best times of 2011 be your worst in 2012 Matt
Last edited by HiWind; 12-28-2011 at 10:40 AM. Reason: additional question
#38
HiWind,
997GT3 does not have any lower vents, correct. So, the correctly modified 996GT3 (in USA mode) design will be closer to the 997GT3 approach.
From personal experience on my 996GT3 (with fully functioning vents):
1. Car ran noticeably cooler. Not measured but needle was consistently cooler than before mod.
2. At speed front end seemed to be more stable.
On current 7RS, (With after market GEMBALLA carbon fiber hood). Heat has no effect as it does not get that hot. However, the hood latch (metal loop) can get quite warm to touch.
997GT3 does not have any lower vents, correct. So, the correctly modified 996GT3 (in USA mode) design will be closer to the 997GT3 approach.
From personal experience on my 996GT3 (with fully functioning vents):
1. Car ran noticeably cooler. Not measured but needle was consistently cooler than before mod.
2. At speed front end seemed to be more stable.
On current 7RS, (With after market GEMBALLA carbon fiber hood). Heat has no effect as it does not get that hot. However, the hood latch (metal loop) can get quite warm to touch.
#39
Three Wheelin'
Here are a couple more of the detail pics which might be helpful for anyone tackling this mod.
I fabricated a rear duct/chimney out of aluminium. I'm not sure what the GT2 OEM duct looks like but it seemed the main goal would be to close the gap between the lower rear edge of the radiator and the sides. With the air thus prevented going sideways and down it should follow the bodywork upwards.
I also used some aluminium to cover the lower vents and fixed them in place with Tigerseal polyurethane sealer/adhesive.
I did a test fit of the bumper to see where the rad sits relative to the inlet openings.. and it sits closer than I had thought when tilted.
I fabricated a rear duct/chimney out of aluminium. I'm not sure what the GT2 OEM duct looks like but it seemed the main goal would be to close the gap between the lower rear edge of the radiator and the sides. With the air thus prevented going sideways and down it should follow the bodywork upwards.
I also used some aluminium to cover the lower vents and fixed them in place with Tigerseal polyurethane sealer/adhesive.
I did a test fit of the bumper to see where the rad sits relative to the inlet openings.. and it sits closer than I had thought when tilted.
#40
Three Wheelin'
I got this job finished today. It's definitely not a quick job if your going to do it right. Very happy with the cosmetic results. It will be some time before being able to get it to the track though.
I did install the radiator upside down so I didn't use hose extensions. I also enlarged the recess in the side rad scoops a bit more than my original pic.
Onto the next job.
I did install the radiator upside down so I didn't use hose extensions. I also enlarged the recess in the side rad scoops a bit more than my original pic.
Onto the next job.
#41
Nordschleife Master
Very nice. Thanks for the pictures and detailed write-up.
Oh, and for the next project, how about some front dive planes a la RS 4.0 to keep the front down force theme going
Oh, and for the next project, how about some front dive planes a la RS 4.0 to keep the front down force theme going
#42
Three Wheelin'
I'm going to add a more detailed write up on this project and put it on my web page in the next few days. There I will add pics of cutting tools & pdf my templates etc.
#43
Nordschleife Master
Thanks, funny you should mention the planes .. that's exactly what I was thinking when I had the bumper sitting here in the lounge.
I'm going to add a more detailed write up on this project and put it on my web page in the next few days. There I will add pics of cutting tools & pdf my templates etc.
I'm going to add a more detailed write up on this project and put it on my web page in the next few days. There I will add pics of cutting tools & pdf my templates etc.
#44
Three Wheelin'
#45
OZ,
not sure if its of interest, especially now you are all fitted up, but the middle rad on my cups dont slope forward anywhere near that amount. its probably about a couple of degrees off vertical at the most and thats it.
you perhaps should have reversed the top frame so that the part that the bolts pass through is to the front. thats how it is and has been on all my cups..
the cup also uses a larger middle radiator than the GT3 uses, its about double the size.
not sure if its of interest, especially now you are all fitted up, but the middle rad on my cups dont slope forward anywhere near that amount. its probably about a couple of degrees off vertical at the most and thats it.
you perhaps should have reversed the top frame so that the part that the bolts pass through is to the front. thats how it is and has been on all my cups..
the cup also uses a larger middle radiator than the GT3 uses, its about double the size.